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Thread: Bosch routers and jamming bits
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16th December 2009, 05:31 AM #1Hewer of wood
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Bosch routers and jamming bits
This may help others as I've just found a solution (I think!). Bitslong has said he's posted the jamming but I didn't see a solution other than to ditch the collet altogether.
Now I don't know much about routers so fire away if this is all wrong.
The problem is that bits jam in some Bosch routers. Mine is the GOF 1300 ACE.
It can be worse when a reducing sleeve is used. I had a major struggle removing a dovetail bit with an 8mm shank mounted in a sleeve as a guide bush prevented getting any grip on the shank.
After a websearch* and some testing in the shed, this works for me so far.
The collet nut is actually designed as a puller, so you need to loosen it with a spanner, spin it down til it seems to tighten, continue with the spanner til loose again and then the bit comes out.
BUT, you must be sure that the collet rim is seated right up against the inside of the nut flange before everything is fitted. Pull it out and assemble the two before inserting in the drive shaft.
Now to the sleeve. My 8mm sleeve is an aftermarket one with a collar at one end and my first use was to insert it into the collet and then screw the nut down. That probably prevented any puller effect from the nut. It was a major effort to remove a DT bit with a guide bush in place. But then when I inserted the sleeve after the nut was spun on to the shaft, the collar was proud of it and after tightening and then loosening the nut as above, again the bit could easily be withdrawn.
Now the bits I'm using are specialised dovetail/finger joint units for use in a jig and have a long shank. In normal use it runs the length of the sleeve. Yet to be tested is what happens when it's not fully inserted in order to project sufficiently beyond the guide bush; ditto whether there's enough clearance to spin the nut down before hitting the guide bush while maintaining sufficient projection of one of the dovetail bits. Yes, I know; bits need max insertion short of bottoming out but many users of my kind of setup can't be doing it.
Another option here might be to avoid sleeves altogether.
The Bosch parts list for the GOF 1300 ACE lists replacement collets in 12, 10, 8 and 6mm, as well as 3/8 and 1/4. Maybe these will function properly with the nut puller effect. They're about $50 each (ouch).
Added: just did a test joint with bit in sleeve and extraction was no problem.
Thanks to Bitslong and John Saxton for their help.
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* http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_1.html
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/3582
other keywords: stuck, sticking, cutterCheers, Ern
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16th December 2009 05:31 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th December 2009, 08:25 PM #2
Gee Ern you're up late putting that post together....never known such fanatacism just noticed that the clock for the posts is out of whack like 12 hrs.
Sounds like you may have a grasp on your situation with the 8mm bits /collett/sleeve/collett nut.
Using the same router I've used mainly 1/2" shank router bits with the Leigh as this was helpful with climbing cuts to effect a clean finish of course.
I have'nt attempted to use 8mm bits in this router so can understand the dilemma you're currently getting to grips with, they do add more stability over the 1/4" bits in routing jigs but accessing approppriate colletts for them is a problem that some manufacturers are not wont to accommodate.
Hope all goes well for you Ern in gaining some degree of satisfaction in use of the sleeve/bits etc.
CheersJohnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
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17th December 2009, 07:09 AM #3Hewer of wood
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Thanks John.
Trial join with the 8mm bit worked yesterday, with the sleeve collar proud of the nut.
Yes, Akeda so their own specialised bits like Leigh and supply the 8mm sleeve. They started with 1/4 shanks but then beefed them up for the usual reason.Cheers, Ern
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19th December 2009, 08:53 AM #4Skwair2rownd
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After my expeiences with Bosch, I would be jamming the router!
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19th December 2009, 09:02 AM #5Hewer of wood
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Yes, some models had power switches clogging up with dust; the bayonet template guide bush system usually gets canned for sloppy manufacture and I've read one case of a user finding the plunge slide was uneven from one side to the other.
But my first test joint with the d/t jig looks pretty good. That's using an Akeda Porter Cable style bush set in the Bosch PC adaptor, RA1100.
Pity Bosch don't write up their collet release mechanism in the manual, but I see them increasingly mentioning it in sales guff. The units still get a lot of plaudits in comparative reviews.
And what's interesting in the US market is the increasing number of kit routers that come with both fixed base and plunge base. If you could leave the fixed base fitted to the router table and just swap the motor into the plunge base it would be a cost-effective way to go.Cheers, Ern
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