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3rd January 2011, 05:01 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Best dust extraction system for a router table
I am looking to build a router table using my large Triton router, and I am not sure about the best method of dust extraction.
On the Triton Workcentre 2000, it has two 1 1/4inch hoses, one from the router, and one from the rear of the fence, and both are connected to a Triton dust cyclone bucket, and then to a workshop vac, and that seems to work OK, from my past experiences on a borrowed WC2000.
Most of the designs I have seen for router tables use a 4 inch hose to a chamber containing the router, and connected to a powerful dust extractor, with a tee off to the fence with a smaller hose.
Ca anyone please advise the best method, as I am getting ready to go on this project, at long last, having collected the varoius items over the past 12 months or so.regards,
Dengy
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3rd January 2011 05:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th January 2011, 11:56 AM #2
I've got all three of those connections on my table.
The 4" hose in the routers enclosed chamber, is least effective on mine..and I've pretty much stopped using it.
The fence and router connection are far more effective. I'd say stick with that
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8th January 2011, 12:34 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for this advice, underused. do you use the standard 32mm ID vacuum hose, and are they both connected to a workshop vac or through a 4 inch hose reducer?
regards,
Dengy
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8th January 2011, 12:40 PM #4
The Router is connected to the vac hose, and the fence is connected to a reducer with the 4" dust collector hose attached. works well!
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8th January 2011, 01:06 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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thanks for this response, underused. One last question, what did you use for a 4inch - 32mm hose reducer, do you recall?
regards,
Dengy
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8th January 2011, 01:26 PM #6
Yes the 4" hose connected to the fence goes to a 2hp dust collector. The router hose goes straight to the vac.
Regarding the chamber set-up, using the 4" hose to the dust collector...yep, the chamber door has a series of holes to allow air flow. The door is directly opposite the 4" hose hole.
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8th January 2011, 01:28 PM #7
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8th January 2011, 04:41 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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many thanks, underused, will start looking for a suitable reducer
regards,
Dengy
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9th January 2011, 08:53 AM #9
Hi JillB, Try Carbatec Reducers : CARBA-TEC for the reducers
regards
HaroldLearn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Albert Einstein
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9th January 2011, 08:55 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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thanks Harold, will give them a go!
regards,
Dengy
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6th February 2011, 10:03 PM #11Senior Member
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Thank you from me too Harold
Nice to know that there are few I could use with my Fein /Aldi's shop vac hose/Australian Pensioners Forums
Fifties and Over Independent Forums
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16th February 2011, 02:25 PM #12
Quick comment.
While it would be nice to have all options, I question whether the complications are really worth it.
On building my table, I set up only a back of fence plenum chamber, extracting to a standard small dusty, 4" hose. I find this is fine for almost all work. It certainly beats the under table extraction on my old table hands-down.
The only operation which does not suit, is if you are routing closed slots on the table. Unless this is something you do a lot of, I would settle for just the fence extraction, and buy a brush for the rest.
My 2c
regardsAlastair
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18th February 2011, 08:44 PM #13Member
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I agree with Alastair that "in fence" extraction is best on my table. You can really see the chips flying into the chute. It's hooked up to a 4" large dusty.
I also have the Triton router connected below the table to my shop vac to collect even more dust and stray chips. Useful on raised panel work where there is a lot of material coming off.
As an experiment I tried all four possible combinations and found that the in fence option above table is by far the best. But, two extractors were noticeably better, especially for small dust particles. Even then there is still some larger chips on the floor directly below the table after a good session.
Using no extraction was actually worse than I expected. Luckily I wore a dust mask for that test.
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27th February 2011, 09:43 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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Depends...
I think a bit depends on how you use your table. The fence system is fine for creating molding etc, but if you are doing frame and panel work using templates, then a fence isn't even going to be on the table. That's when having another option, such as something under the table might come in handy.
Just a thought.
Craig
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27th February 2011, 10:23 PM #15Member
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Hmmm. My fence is always needed for panel work to get a consistent edge, there is no way to do this freehand with non-bearing topped bits. I alway use non-bearing bits for longevity (no bearing failure) and freedom of panel lip size.
Even for rail and stile work the fence provides needed accuracy and anchor points for feather boards which are essential for safety and work piece stability.
So far I haven't had a scenario where the fence can't be close to the action, even if not actually necessary.
If I were to do any curved work I would hang a dusty hose from the ceiling just over the bit to catch the chips as the under table collection on it's own is average at best.
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