Thread: Cast router table.

I have a cast iron router table.

Not sure if it is really worth it. Mine is a cheap one from carbatec, the milling/grinding on it is below average, so it seems to rust quicker, But i have it mounted on the end of my sawstop table saw.

I think its easier to get a proper router lift mounted into a timber/plastic coated router top.

Ok and thanks for the reply..

We used the Kreg Precision Router table with a TRA001 for several years at the Blenheim Menz Shed. Then about two years ago we were donated several machines including a router table with cast iron top and a rather clunky tenon jig. I believe it was an early Carbatec system. It came with the MOF001 so I swapped out the routers and we kept the cast iron table. I've never seen anyone use the tenon jig but it also has a turn screw fence adjustment that is nice to use. When I have used it I have more than once found it made black marks on the work piece, and it would definitely make a white rag soaked with degreaser go black. All in all, I wish we'd kept the Kreg table.

As for routers and lifts I would chose the Triton TRA001 every time as it does not need a lift, and it has a lot of power. I used a Bosch 1600E with its fixed base in my own router table, and while it does have above table adjustment it is even more clunky than the tenon jig I mentioned. It is OK lowering the router, but if I want to raise it I have to reach under the table and give it a helping hand. So I bought a TRA001 and will have that permanently mounted in my table, and keep the Bosch for use with its plunge base. It's horses for courses. I absolutely love the Bosch router with its plunge base, but the TRA001 is a much better table mounted router.

Cast iron tables should be a good bet for routers. I mean our table saws never seem to mark the workpiece, and cast iron is going to stay flatter than wood.

Thanks for the replies Trevor.

My Men's Shed purchased the Timbecon unit with all the bells and whistles, it is very good and a real pleasure to use and easily use accurately.

https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...l-router-table

We also purchased their in-house router for the table. It also works very well. We did have the first unit self destruct, this was immediately replaced by Timbecon. I believe it was a case of dust ingress into a sensor, something that hasn't been an issue at all with the replacement unit.

https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...y-router-motor

With the router placed inside the box and the supplied hose to the tabletop, dust, shavings or whatever are minimal. In fact I used the Shed router yesterday along with another member who had never used this machine before; he remarked that not only was it great to use, but the dust not sucked up was minimal to the point of needing to look for the dust to clean-up.

You may wish to just get the table and use your own stuff, which is fine. I would though, suggest you look at the micro adjusters. These can be seen on the fence edge. Find the two locking knobs on the LH side of the fence in the pictures, in-between the two knobs there is a knurled wheel, this is the micro adjuster. The lower back knob locks the fence, loosening the higher front knob enables you to finely adjust the fence with the knurled wheel; one then simply locks the front knob and you are ready to go with your new setting.

https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...adjustment-kit


The complete unit is reasonably heavy, so unless you are really pushing it around, it should not move. The top on ours is flat.

Mick.

Hi Mick and thankyou for replying. I think I will have to go and have a look see.
I'm in the middle of trying to buy a spindle moulder from WA as well....and get this the cost of transport from WA to Vic in nearly 1/3 ie $1000 the price of the Cast iron Router set up.
Steven

Too bad HF is not in Australia, I bought a cast iron router table top form them 20years ago, it was very reasonable. The first one was warped so bad 1/4" out of flat, they sent another one works great with a discontinued Freud router.