Ok then hows it done, did you use a thread insert at the top of the adjuster threaded rod?
Got any more info/pic's?
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Ok then hows it done, did you use a thread insert at the top of the adjuster threaded rod?
Got any more info/pic's?
Hope this makes sense then.......
Makita 3600br setup
Bits I used were
Length of threaded rod 8x1.25 pitch
Blind phil drive nut to suit above
Various washers to centre and space
1 standard nut
1 blind nut (all in photos)
1 wing nut
what I did
1-Remove base plate
2- on the adjusting side only. Carefully drift the locking pin at base. Remove height adjust mechanism from body then remove inner sleeve (at base only 2 cms long) by drifting from top.
3-Use imagination to relock column to base, I used small cut down metal screw, but rivets short pins etc would be just as good.
4-Assemble new adjustment bolt to your desired length. Pin or spot blind phil nut to rod for your adjustment drive, I used stainless rod & was too lazy to set mig up for SS so I drilled & pinned
5-Reassemble router body to base Viola!!
I'm sure others could improve when you do let us know, so I can too :)
heres another pic to make the mud even clearer. :o
Hi everybody,
I’m new on Woodwork Forums and after browsing through some of the pics and postings I was just about to log off and ride off into the sunset! You guys are terrific both with the standard of your work and with your sense of humour! Way, way out of my class! I’m brand new to woodwork, and this is only the second posting I’ve ever done, and I was just about to leave in shame when I saw the pics of your "Bushpig" router table Harry72 That’s my bag! That’s what I do!! Improvisation is my thing!! Oh, I like to work on the good gear too, but nothing sits on the side grinning at me while I bust my butt doing the work! In my shop it’s all hands to the pump and if something can be used it gets used! Geez! I’ve been known to strip the Iron out of my best Stanley hand plane and use it to scrape varnish off a pine wood table! Seriously though, I really want to get better at woodwork and I specially love the router, so if you’ll put up with me I’ll stay a while and see how we get on.
Happy New Year and Happy Woodworking to all.
Cheers! Little Al
Improvisation is what WW is all about, just dont compromise safety!
The Ol'bushpig table runs just great, shows up some of them upmarket flooseys!
Mate they put up with me, you'll have no problems... their a good bunch with a sense of humour round here!Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Al
Out of all the BB's Ive been too, these are very helpful and friendly there. Plus there aint no silly imature 14yr olds to put up with.(sorry if you are a 14yr old)
Leave the iron in your plane unless you are going to sharpen it. Cut yourself a card scraper from an old handsaw blade and learn to sharpen it with a old masonry drill bit. There you go, improvement and improvisation in one go ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Al
Now that's a good trick SilentC, got a couple of those old saw blades hanging around! Thanks! Have also just been turning an old carbide tipped table saw blade into a handful of parting tools for the home made lathe. They work really well! Can anyone point me in the right direction to buy some metal tracking for the router table I'm making - need it for fence tracks? I'm going to Perth (WA) on Thursday so someone there might know? Nothing out here in the sticks!
Hey Harry, the ball and chain reckons me mental age was fourteen last year but it's much less now! She'll keep!http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...cons/icon7.gif
Cheers all.
One thing I bave not noticed on other tables is the morticing option, so I thought I'd show it. I have pictures of my table on my website at:
http://woodworking.homeip.net/wood/R...ages/index.htm
You might wana try www.woodpeckers.com.au for the T track.Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Al
The ball and chain of mine reckons Im a old fart coz she's younger... will we never understand them?
Thanks for the link and the table looks interesting BUT!Quote:
Originally Posted by Groggy
You should havea "home" button or some navigation option on all your pages. I tried to get back to your home page but had to guess the URL.
Hi
Generally speaking you WOULD NOT use the mitre slot (with a mitre gauge etc) WITH the fence. Normally it is one "device" OR the other. Consider the use of the table saw, you normally use the fence or the mitre gauge, NOT BOTH!Quote:
Secondly, a router table does not need a mitre slot. Yes you can get away with a sleigh-sort-of-thing. But a mitre gauge in a slot is easier to use as long as you can assure that the mitre slot and fence remain aligned. If your fence system cannot guarentee this, then use a sleigh.
I frequently use both a mitre gauge and the fence on my table saw - when I am cutting the shoulders of tenons. That way the shoulders are perfectly matched, and you do not need to buy one of those shoulder planes that Derek keeps going on about :)
Rocker
Dont you use the fence and a mitre slot when cutting rail and stiles for kitchen raised panel doors?
Hi all,
Not wishing to take away the intent of this thread, but to let you know that the first contribution to our 'Braggers' page is up, with a very smart table attached to a Jet Table Saw, see it at http://www.woodpeckers.com.au/webcontent4.htm
Also our long awaited Credit Card facility is up and running.
Regards
Regards
Gwhat
Finally got around to updating the fence on the bushpig table...
Made from 50x3mm aluminium angle/30x3mm alum angle/25x3 alum flat and a mega amount of 20mm 3/16 bolts.
All up it cost about $45 plus a bit of head scratchin.
Photo 1. front, face's are adjustable for different width bits still need wingnuts.
Photo 2. rear, dust port made of scraps.
Photo 3. rear low, here you can see how its constructed. There are 2 50mm angles on the bottom with a 100mm gap between them, the middle/top rail is one piece 50mm angle with another 50mm angle upside down on top for extra strenght, later it will hold a T slot and a finger guard.
The uprights are 50mm angle they are 105mm tall this allows for a 8mm open slot between the top and lower rails for the face adjustments.
It is clamped inplace by some 30mm angle with a slot cut into it, it has some flat bar angled at 45* for support to the outer 50mm uprights.
Clamping the fence inplace are some camclamps that I knocked up, a hole was drilled in the routertable 3mm mild steel top, I have a 120mm fowards/backwards travel, plenty enough.
Photo 4. camclamps, they were easier to make than I thought. The thread is 3/8 continous, I heated one end cherry and flatten with a knockometer(ball pein hammer) to allow a hole to be drilled through which a rolled pin goes in.
Cam/handles are fashioned from 25mm flat, a few washers and a 20mm 3/16 bolt. It took 2 goes too get the cam shape right, the highest point on the cam needs to go past the pivot point to lock down without coming undone.
Did a few mods to the router itself(3612c), removed the handles/plunge springs/stepped adjuster as I have another for hand held work.
Still need to make an adjustable/repeatable stepped stop for the fence yet, add some mitre slots fence plus table top and add a finger guard, remote start and speed switch panel.
Rigg up some sort of height adjustment for the router, Id like it to be on the front like a spindle moulder.
Then I might make the actual cabinet... still using the old tank stand!