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  1. #136
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Perth
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    39

    Default

    I think I also saw one, the last time I was at Timbecon.

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  3. #137
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    745

    Default No Volt Release Switch...........needed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Dingo
    Okay so where does one get a power thing?... I mean Ive got the table and router but now Ive gotta reach way the buggary under the thing to switch it on and off... bloody dangerous to my thinking so was hoping theres a switch I can buy to mount on the table leg or table underside that the routers lead plugs into and you turn it on and off from a safer perspective... this without having to pay a leccy an arm leg and two testicles to make up!!

    So anyone got any ideas where a bloke would buy one?
    We've been looking for a while for a supplier, basically what you need is a direct on-line (DoL) starter, this way if the lead is pulled out etc. the router can't start without the button being re-pressed. Your local electrical wholesalers will have them, 'though not cheap. They might even help you attach a plug and socket. Some of the Asian machinery importers may have them as spares.

    My own cost well over $100 but is really worth it from a safety view point.

    Regards

    The Woodpecker
    www.woodpeckers.com.au

  4. #138
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Get Woodworking in Williamstown has a box of the Triton style router table switches sitting near the counter, not sure what they're worth, but he has them in stock.

  5. #139
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Fremantle W.A
    Age
    60
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Dingo
    oh an ye be guessin dead right Cliff ol mate... no way I want to buy another router table!!... Just got no idea where Id start lookin

    Shane,
    I got mine, Triton switch, as a spare part from Carabtec or you can go to Atkin carlyle and pay a whole lot more for a foot switch if you think it would be more useful.

    Kind regards
    Vasco

  6. #140
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    649

    Default

    Call triton or as they call themselves now GMC, I think there located in melbourne just look it up on the net and they sell and ship them straight away from memory its about 30 aust for a complete switch assembly as currently fitted to the triton units. They also sell any spare part and ship it anywhere capital city wise regardless of size for 5 aust now thats not bad service

  7. #141
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default Bump

    Timbcon have T Track from Torquata in their advert in the latest AWW.
    Seems like a fair price, I'm thinking about getting some for my, as yet unfinished, router table.

    I was looking for some pics of how it was used & found some in this thread so I've given it a bump.

    Any body else got any ideas for T Track, Tee Track, Sail Track, Mitre Track?
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  8. #142
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    I use it quite extensively on my router table, and particularily on my router table fence. Good for stops, and for 90 degree fixtures (similar to a mitre gauge in practice, but it moves with the fence, rather than in a separate slot, and the fence and slot don't have to be parallel).

    You could get some more to make an elaborate drill press table.
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  9. #143
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    Timbcon have T Track from Torquata in their advert in the latest AWW.
    Seems like a fair price, I'm thinking about getting some for my, as yet unfinished, router table.

    I was looking for some pics of how it was used & found some in this thread so I've given it a bump.

    Any body else got any ideas for T Track, Tee Track, Sail Track, Mitre Track?
    Cliff, If you have access to the Australian Woodsmith magazine look at issue 17 pages 14 to 17. The same volume also has a pretty good router table plan. I built both and am happy with the result
    If you can do it - Do it! If you can't do it - Try it!
    Do both well!

  10. #144
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    2,947

    Default

    With regards the sail track

    Capral appears to have changed their product/description codes - I quoted the old numbers etc to be told that the product code is now 810957 and the product description is EE4204 6106 T6 - their computer system may not locate the item under the old number EE4204 5106 T6 . - if you give them the wrong #'s apparently some say they have never heard of it
    Regards
    Bob
    PS have used quite a bit of it - you do need to drill and countersink your own holes - only problem is finding the correct counter sink screws at a reasonable length

  11. #145
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Northern Beaches
    Age
    77
    Posts
    405

    Default

    I bought some sail track from Capral yesterday: $13.50 for 4 metres in Brookvale. I find that I use it on many jigs and don't need to drill holes unless there's some stress applied like on the workbench. On my saw fence and cross-cut sled I just route the insert and glue the track in place with "liquid nails".

    Where stress IS an issue try the 2 part epoxy fixing method which I have tried successfully and recommend. I needed to use epoxy fixing because my (supported) bench-top is only 19mm thick. Consult our resident expert NewLou on epoxy in this forum http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ght=part+epoxy
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  12. #146
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Broome West Aussie
    Age
    67
    Posts
    3,683

    Default

    Okay okay ahem... back on track fellas!!

    The challenge was to create the Ideal Router Table here... tangent tangents tangents

    So aside from Harrys bushpig design (Love it by the way cant work out how youve got the router to stay put am presently thinkin superglue or tarzans grip but could be wrong )... so where were we?

    So wheres our thread starterupperer? Come on mate you need to define where we are at!! ah buggar it Im a bit groggy from reading the previous 11 pages but I'll give it a whirl

    First I think we had pretty much decided that a 32mm malamite or postform top was the go
    Second I think its almost unanamous that no mitre track was needed
    Third a high fence was required
    Fourth?

    So what am I thinking? well havin been muckin about with ideas for the ideal router table for some time Im thinking along these lines...

    1) An old steel framed desk like the old post office desks... rip the top off and keep the steel frame
    2) As the frame is a bit low at 26in high make some wooden legs with a block on the base slip them over the steel legs and raise the table to say 32in
    3) get an appropriate sized length of 32mm malamite or postform stuff this would be around 4 1/2ft long by around 2ft 4in wide to fit the steel frame
    4) make some internal legs and fit them to the streel frame
    5) make doors and drawers fit to between uprights
    6) get some 50kl locking wheels and fit to base of legs
    7) make some fold out tables for infeed outfeed these should be as long as the table is high less an inch and joined to the table by say piano hinges so that they fold down and out of the way when not in use
    8) cut and fit router lift or router insert
    9) cut and fit mitre slots
    10) make fence or buy one fit said fence
    11) make extention table fences to be removable when not in use
    12) install some low profile (set low in the timber) rollers to the front and ends of both extention tables
    13) install Triton switch to front of table
    14) install router

    WHEW!! Was worried Id end up with 13 for a tick there... ahem so have I forgotten anything?

    Ive drawn a sketch of what Im thinkin and will either find it or draw it again to give you a clearer idea
    Believe me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!


  13. #147
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Default

    Ding the router is just held by the same screws that hold the factory plastic slip base on.

    I'll get around 1 day to building the new replacement for the "bushpig", incorperating my Uni-lift thats starting go rusty on the guide bars!
    ....................................................................

  14. #148
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Broome West Aussie
    Age
    67
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    3,683

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Harry72 View Post
    Ding the router is just held by the same screws that hold the factory plastic slip base on.

    I'll get around 1 day to building the new replacement for the "bushpig", incorperating my Uni-lift thats starting go rusty on the guide bars!
    No worries thanks Harry

    Now abouot that Uni-lift mate... you know you REALLY dont want the thing dont you? I mean if you did REALLy want it you would have already made the new router table!! So given that you dont REALLY want it you musta bought it so you could show your generous side didnt you? Okay so whens it arrive?
    Believe me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!


  15. #149
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Default

    Ha not likely!
    Ya wont get the rest of the kit either... (Gwhat likes my money!)
    1200 Mitre track and 2 sliders and a few lever hold downs for jigs, 2 1200 T tracks, extreme extension, couple inca hold downs and a heap of assorted knobs T nuts, .3mm polished stainless sheeting for laminating on too the top surface, a stop/start NV switch from my old Tsaw... set of 5" heavy caster wheels(cast iron, poly outers).
    Just need some mdf for the top(16mmx3 thick) gunna be a big lad will be 1200x790ish(full sheet) because I do a lot of panel raising.
    And then the fence....
    The cabinet has to be big enough to hold all my router gear.
    ....................................................................

  16. #150
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bayside Melbourne
    Posts
    745

    Default UniLIFT

    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Dingo View Post
    No worries thanks Harry

    Now abouot that Uni-lift mate... you know you REALLY dont want the thing dont you? I mean if you did REALLy want it you would have already made the new router table!!
    Gee, I was about to offer a buy-back, UniLIFT's have been in hot demand lately, but the good news is that we got a new shipment yesterday and have more on the way.

    Also with the discussion about T Track, whilst ours is more expensive than sail track, it is the genuine Incra product, designed for the clamping forces etc. that are likely to be imposed on it. It also is completely compatible with our UHMW slides, clamps, stops. nuts, knobs, etc. @ $23.50 for a 1220mm length it is really good value. Scale track is also available with METRIC scales @ $37.50; 450, 600 & 900's are also available here.

    Great to see the innovative (and varied) ideas on RT design, I guess it all gets back to what the most common use of the table will be.

    We will have a commentary on setting up the new Incra RT stand available shortly.

    Regards

    The Woodworker

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