Thread: Challenge to Create the Ideal Router Table

Not too sure that 11" x 11" will moth the big Triron router?

I read all eleven pages and are amazed at the variety of ideas that have been put up.

I'm starting from scratch, not even owning a router yet means I have no limitation aside from the mighty dollar as to what direction I take, oh also limeted skill is probrably the biggest handicap!

I'm currently leaning towards either a Dewalt 625 or Triton TRA 001, I would like a router with interchangeable fixed and plunge base, but have been unable to find one here in Australia.

I also like a Phenolic Router plate with an engineered router table top from woodworksupplies.com.au, I have also looked at the unilift and the router raizer, but fail to see the point?

I like the Incra positioning systems but aside from cost are struggling to work out what I would be best getting? Is there a basic starting pack that can then be added to at a later date

I was originally looking at the Gifkin Jig, but with the number of templates I was going to need to do both Finger and Dovetail joints meant the cost brought the Incra systems back as an option and they appear to be more versatile?

What are other peoples thoughts on this issue? Any suggestions or pointers will be most appreciated.

Hoppoz

Hoppoz, I know your post is a few months old now, but I thought I'd reply to keep this thread alive anyway. I need to build a router table (I refuse to buy one!), and I want to build a good one. I like to make things once and get it right the first time (my life is full of frustrations!).

I'm leaning towards the unilift because it allows the height of the bit to be raised or lowered from above the table, without having to adjust the router beneath the table. I've also been looking at the ultimate entension thingy, which seems to me would allow (or make easier) bit changes from above the table. At the moment I have a cheap GMC router, and I'm not sure that it can allow above the table bit changes no matter what I do (I suspect that it can't), and I'd really love to get a Triton. But we'll see.

I bought a Gifkin jig because I really like the simplicity of being able to do dovetails with it quickly and simply. I bought two templates (and cutters) and plan to make a lot of boxes and drawers. But I do recognise that the Gifkins has its limitations and I was thinking that down the track I might also get a Leigh or an Incra system, when the finances allow. I'm leaning away from the Incra because of the cost, and I also reckon that I can make 90% of the jigs and fences that I will need myself, on the router and the TS.

Poppa, I don't know whether you have read this thread, but I really don't think you need the above table lifting systems if you buy a Triton router. I fully endorse what Stuart says there.

I think you can spend your money more wisely if you have a Triton. If you have another router that is hard raise and lower from beneath the table, then I think they are worth having.

On the other hand they cost as much or more than a Triton router!

I certainly haven't regretted deciding against getting one, adjusting the height of the Triton router in my router table is quick and simple.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Poppa, I don't know whether you have read this thread, but I really don't think you need the above table lifting systems if you buy a Triton router. I fully endorse what Stuart says there.

I think you can spend your money more wisely if you have a Triton. If you have another router that is hard raise and lower from beneath the table, then I think they are worth having.

The Triton TRA001 switch interface is anoying when using a lift such as the UniLIFT as the routers switch has to be in the 'off' position to allow the plunge to move up to the 'above table' position, thus (in my mind at least) negating the benefits of an above table lift device.

The TRA001 is a good router, but when you consider how few $$'s more it takes to buy a DeWalt 625 (the old ELU) it is a no brainer, a great plunge action, a very true running shaft and plenty of guts.

The test in my opinion is a building site or factory, most shopfitters or cabinetmakers will opt for a DeWalt, Makita or Hitachi before a Triton.

Add an extension collet (e. g. Xtreme Xtension) and WHOOPEE, no locking of the shaft, no spanners and single handed bit changes. The DW625 was selling for circa $440 at the Sydney show.

BTW I have no affiliation with DeWalt, 'though I'd sure like to own one

My opinion for what it's worth.

Regards

The Woodworker

I shopped around and quickly found the best price I could get over the phone for the big Triton (TRA001) then with these details in hand I trotted off to Bunnings where they where only too happy to take another 10% off that best price for me (after a quick phone call to see that I was telling the truth about the price I'd been quoted).... End result, I only paid $326 for my new toy, quite happy with that.
Cheers
Max

Max, very good price, good thinking.

I'm sure you'll be happy with the router as well, I reckon one of the best routers made, especially for table work.

Me again,
I think I've changed my mind about inlaying the aluminium guides I picked up into the table. Considering their size and shape I'm thinking a guide mounted to the front edge of the table might be the way to go. That's how they were designed to be used on the machine they're off and it will save me having to get them machined to suit how I wanted them to sit in the table while at the same time hopefully make the table top less likely to warp.
The guide runners can be whatever length I want as the pieces are quite long so that should mean I wouldn't expect their to be much of a problem with them being further away from the fence and I'll make any attachments robust enough so they are rigid and hold true to the guide.
See attached photo.... that's if I can figure out how to attach the damn thing... well here goes
Cheers
Max

Well bugger me... it actually worked

Bump at the request of a few.

This is a really good thread, a long read but it has some good stuff in it.

Am I doing this right? My first post. Woohoo!! Have enjoyed reading this thread. Read most but not all. My behind is numb though and I haven't found what I'm looking for. I have just purchased my first tool (my cordless drill was a gift) a new Triton 001B Router. $369 from Perth woodwork show. I'm intending to build cajon drums. I intend using box /finger joints and working to a fairly standard size and bit gauge. Buying a table is not at option at the moment (just blew the budget on the router) so making one is what I would like to do. I've seen some nice jigs for the joints and would eventually like to add an INCRA ls positioning system. As I wont be changing bit size that greatly or often. I'm hoping I might avoid buying the plate hole systems you see in most tables. Is there a safety issue with the diameter of the whole the bit pokes through. Is there a rule of thumb (or for keeping your thumbs) for the dimension of these holes? Any tips or advice would be much apreciated. Cheers Mike

Originally Posted by cajonman

I'm hoping I might avoid buying the plate hole systems you see in most tables. Is there a safety issue with the diameter of the whole the bit pokes through. Is there a rule of thumb (or for keeping your thumbs) for the dimension of these holes? Any tips or advice would be much apreciated. Cheers Mike

Mike

The rule of thumb is usually as close as possible down to about 20mm. Some users very small bits advocate zero clearance but for general use, 3 or 4 inserts suffice. Having one with a 1-3/16" stepped hole allows the use of the Porter Cable style template guides.

Regards

Grahame

Originally Posted by Gwhat

Mike

The rule of thumb is usually as close as possible down to about 20mm. Some users very small bits advocate zero clearance but for general use, 3 or 4 inserts suffice. Having one with a 1-3/16" stepped hole allows the use of the Porter Cable style template guides.

Regards

Grahame

Thanks Graeme, I have been thinking about it today. I guess the descision for me is do I have a standard size set up for the finger jointing I want to be doing or do I put in a plate that will enable me to do other projects. I think that for the most part I will be using fairly smallish bits. So I could get away with say a 30 - 40mm diameter hole. Í'm not sure what porter cable templates are but I'll have a look. Thanks again Mike