Thread: Challenge to Create the Ideal Router Table

A big thank you to all who have helped on my quest for the router table. I especially like the Vacuum addition on the oak park bench. I have not fulfilled my promise to build myself the perfect table yet, however have been thinking about it a lot. I will attempt when I get time, and let everyone know how I go. In the meantime happy woodwoking to all the woodies.

Cheers Nanoo

Originally Posted by Nanoo

A big thank you to all who have helped on my quest for the router table. I especially like the Vacuum addition on the oak park bench. I have not fulfilled my promise to build myself the perfect table yet, however have been thinking about it a lot. I will attempt when I get time, and let everyone know how I go. In the meantime happy woodwoking to all the woodies.

Cheers Nanoo

I have been monitoring the number of views this topic has had since it was first posted and a great number of the members have been giving their advice on what is good and what is bad re certain aspects of construction.
It was some 40 plus years when I made the decision to insert the router under the table, and it was a simple board inserted in the Vice.
I have since made a number of router tables to increase my routers potential and I have two already set up for use whenever I wish to use them. I also have a couple of Triton Tables where I can insert the router at any time.
What I did not realise at the time I was spending making the tables was that I was restricting the number of processes the router is capable of producing. There is no doubt in my mind that the table router is essential for a number of processes, but I have come to the conclusion that more can be achieved if we take the router in the hand held position.

Maybe we could start a thread on what we have achieved with the router in the table mode, and list all the processes to produce an article.
Such as:
(1) Routing the frame work of a door with the Panel Door Bits
(2) window sash and rail bits
(3) Raised Panel Door bit
(4) Mitre Lock Bit
(5) Jointing bits
(6) Finger Joint Bits
(7) Face Moulding Bits Numerous designs
(8) Stair Handrail bits
(9) Edge forming bits (possibly the most popular bit to be used by many)
(10) Rebating Bits
(11) Slotting Cutters in various sizes
(12) Straight Bits also spiral Cutters
(13) Edge and Face Edge Cutters
(14) Trimming Cutters
(15) Dovetail cutters
(16) Edge forming Cutters
...................and many more
The sample of cutters I refer to have been selected from an Australian manufacter produced in Victoria
Router cutters 1-7 ...I would certainly not use any other method than the router table. Obviously the remainder can be used in both modes Table and Hand held.

Most common use of the table would be
(a) adding the decorative edges to such Items as table tops.
(b) Producing dovetails (Special Jig Required)
(c) Adding trenches
(d) Mortice and Tenon Joint
(e) Half lap Joints
(f) Inserting Biscuits
(g) Trimming Material to size
(h) Template work reducing to suit the 'Male' Template
(i) Some may attempt 'Pin Routing'


I am sure others can add more to the list
I have enclosed a number of projects requiring a number of routing processes that are not possible to be produced in the table mode IMHO

Tom

I absolutely agree that the work must never go between the fence and the bit hence the sacrificial facing on the router side of the fence. It houses the spinning bit and then the wood can be fed along and cotact the bit. The fence controls width of cut (among other things)and the router height controls the depth. Anyway this being a design forum not a safety one i'll leave it there.

Hi everyone, I've been away from the forums for a while but I'm in the process of building (another) router table and this thread has really delivered.
I'm working on a combo bench to house both under table router (centraly, toward the front) and drop saw on an outrigger off one end, I'd like to run a fixed fence across the back edge maybe 150 from the back to leave room for glue and other everyday items to stand. The table top is ~2400 x 900 at this stage. I plan to build a seperate router specific fence and there is plenty of room (no incra style overhead out the back of the fence).

Can anyone think of why you would want to have the top of the router table completely clear and is trying to combine the docking saw a bad idea? I generaly use the table for biscuit joining, raised panel doors and trimming panels to width (no panel saw) all of which will still be possible...

Originally Posted by Robomanic

.....Can anyone think of why you would want to have the top of the router table completely clear ....

You can't have too many flat surfaces to store 'stuff' on.

Hi
Can anyone recommend a good instructional book on routing (learner)
Many thanks in advance

Originally Posted by all at sea

Hi
Can anyone recommend a good instructional book on routing (learner)
Many thanks in advance

Hey,

Send me a PM with your address and I'll send you a helpful routing book that you can keep.

Andy

PM sent

how important is it to have a router plate in a router table. I watched a Gifkins video and he doesn't have one in his. Seems like a plate could cause problems.

KR

Krittgers, think of a router plate as a zero clearance insert in your table saw. You match the router plate with the router bit to give as little a hole as possible so your stock doesn't nose dive and become a nasty accident.

Originally Posted by Gwhat

We've been looking for a while for a supplier, basically what you need is a direct on-line (DoL) starter, this way if the lead is pulled out etc. the router can't start without the button being re-pressed. Your local electrical wholesalers will have them, 'though not cheap. They might even help you attach a plug and socket. Some of the Asian machinery importers may have them as spares.

My own cost well over $100 but is really worth it from a safety view point.

Regards

The Woodpecker
Woodpeckers.com.au | Woodpeckers

If you have some electrical skills, you can make your own DOL starter, using a contactor and a couple of push buttons. Knock up a quick ply box enclosure for it, or buy one cheaply from a wholesaler.

This will be much cheaper than buying a full DOL starter. As long as the power into the machine comes from a plug, it is not illegal to do this, as it isn't classed as fixed wiring.

This is what I will be doing for my own router table build in some shiny future

I have plans to have the start and stop buttons running through a contactor to a front panel, which will also house the speed control for the router, switches for the work lights, and the up / down buttons for the motorised height adjustment. I'll probably screw a bottle-opener on it too.

I've included a few photos of my new and old handmade router tables (the old is the table saw extension modification) to try and cut down on the words I have to use here and you have to read...
The new table frame is of loose tenon construction, the timber sourced- some may say scavenged- from a friends old stairs that got replaced. The top is 2 sheets of 19mm MDF laminated together for strength and oiled to seal. I chose not to coat this one with a laminex finish as I did the old one, mainly for aesthetics.
The insert is made from 8mm acrylic with smaller inserts made to reduce the bit opening. Gravity holds it in its rabbet and the fit is snug enough that there is no sideways movement. I took pains to make sure all was perfectly flush and there are no mitre slots to grab dirt and dust and more importantly, to weaken the top. On that subject, any cross cutting like tenons or dadoes is completed on a sled that has its runners referenced along the sides of the table. I'll put up a photo if theres any interest when its finished.
The fence is more recycled timber chosen for straight grain, jointed carefully and glued at right angles. Glue is important because once all is dry, run it through the jointer again to ensure absolute squareness. I then made MDF facings that can be closed right up on any bit to get a nice zero opening. They are regarded as consumable. If you look at the photos, you'll see I use my shop vacuum for dust collection at point of cut, at the fence.
In the old table I can mount a jigsaw in an insert as a poor mans bandsaw or just a plain insert to have a normal tablesaw side wing.
This was all hand made and so fairly cheap. The MDF and fence hardware was about $30-35. The acrylic was rummaged from a scrap bin at a plastics firm and I guess I used about $5 worth of wood oil. The timber was recycled and so free and as it was mortise and loose tenon construction, theres no hardware there. The top is fixed to the frame with angle iron that I ensured was straight and square and cost about $20 including screws.
I can recommend Bill Hylton's 'Woodworking with the Router' as a great book and the main source of ideas here.
Hope this helps someone out there.

Originally Posted by JNorton

If you have some electrical skills, you can make your own DOL starter, using a contactor and a couple of push buttons. Knock up a quick ply box enclosure for it, or buy one cheaply from a wholesaler.

This will be much cheaper than buying a full DOL starter. As long as the power into the machine comes from a plug, it is not illegal to do this, as it isn't classed as fixed wiring.

This is what I will be doing for my own router table build in some shiny future

I have plans to have the start and stop buttons running through a contactor to a front panel, which will also house the speed control for the router, switches for the work lights, and the up / down buttons for the motorised height adjustment. I'll probably screw a bottle-opener on it too.

I put this up in the safety forum for those looking for the no volt release assemblies.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f67/cu...6/#post1327876

JNorton, your control box sounds almost exactly like what I have been planning. It is making its way to the top of the list so hopefully posting soon. Consider the bottle opener idea stolen

Stanley#5 that is a nice looling table, well done.

Thanks Robomanic.
The table will later be getting a removable cabinet to house the router and assist with dust collection as well as a drawer under that. I was planning to incorporate the switch assembly then, but I honestly hadn't thought of the bottle opener. There is always so much to learn... I will also be pinching that idea methinks.
Cheers