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Thread: Circle cutting
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8th July 2008, 09:59 AM #1Senior Member
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Circle cutting
G’day all,
Need some advice on routing a circular table top.
What I’ve got so far…
I glued up 5 lengths of Vic ash – 90 x 19, sanded both faces smooth, then drew and cut a rough circle close to 420mm in diameter with a bandsaw. On my router table I installed a new, sharp, straight bit. I made a circle template using a length of wood that fits my t-track – it has a small nail sticking up that fits into a hole drilled into the centre of the underneath face of the prospective table top. The template can slide along the t-track so I can adjust the distance to the router bit, then can be clamped in place.
So I have the table top in place positioned so that when I spin it the smallest part would touch the router bit making about a 2mm cut. The plan was to cut this circle first, with the bit fully raised, then move the guide a little closer, maybe another 2mm, make that cut, etc, until the edge was a prefect circle.
Big mistake. Worked fine until the table top spun so that the long edge of one of the side lengths got to the router bit. It ripped a large splinter out of the wood. Very large.
Ok. Start again. This time I lowered the router bit below the surface, positioned the table top at the final position (now giving me a 400mm diameter to clear the ripped-out bit), started the router, then raised it slowly so it took a small cut (again about 2mm) from the bottom of the wood. I continued to make a full circle cut, raising the router 2mm each time. When I finished and looked at the table top edge I found a lot of chunks ripped out, especially where the router bit was cutting against the grain.
Third try. I moved the guide a little closer, so I could cut around 3mm more to smooth the edge (now a 392mm table top – sigh). This time I used the cut-and-raise-the-bit method, but I first back-routed the 2 edges of the table top where the router bit was catching and pulling splinters. Worked better than the other methods, but as I had to go back and forwards over the same quarter-circle part of the top about 9 or 10 times to finish the back-routing I ended up with ugly burn marks that left a noticeable dimple in the edge when I sanded them out.
Can anyone suggest a better method?
Cheers,
Adam
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8th July 2008 09:59 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th July 2008, 11:05 PM #2
Even at only about 400mm, the workpiece might be a bit unwieldy to cut on a router table. I'd consider using a router compass, such as this one: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=50372
With the planks running East-West, you might reduce tear-out by moving the router anti-clockwise in the NW and SE quadrants, and clockwise in the NE and SW quadrants. The last two would still be climbing cuts, but not as severe as otherwise. Using a larger blank, and cutting slots, the cutter should be more balanced in position. All theoretical, I'm afraid, though. Perhaps wiser heads will chime in.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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9th July 2008, 01:11 AM #3.
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You might do better with a multifluted spiral cutter than a straight bit. I have cut 200 mm diameter circles with these cutters in Jarrah with minimal splintering.
The other way to do this is with a big lathe?
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9th July 2008, 09:03 AM #4Senior Member
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Thanks for chipping in (pun intended).
Do you get a smoother cut, with less chipout, with a slower speed or a faster speed?
Cheers,
Adam
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