Thread: Dado's - Newbie Alert!

Not a dumb question at all. Better you ask first. trying and not knowing would be dumber

I'd be looking at doing it on the table (I assume you have one from your post).

Because of the length, you'll need infeed and outfeed support and I'd also have feather boards on the top to hold the timber down and also one holding it in. You could make a couple of passes and adjust the height each time rather than going full depth in one hit but if it's pine you are using , that isn't going to be critical. 5mm isn't all that deep anyway.

To get the position exact, set it up by eye and then run a scrap offcut through. measure result, adjust, run it again etc. until it's just right.

It is my belief that Mr Gumby has given sound advice, and I suggest you follow his sugestion..


Gumby will of course be soundly flogged for his reckless and thoughtless actions.

Originally Posted by Gumby

Not a dumb question at all. Better you ask first. trying and not knowing would be dumber

I'd be looking at doing it on the table (I assume you have one from your post).

Because of the length, you'll need infeed and outfeed support and I'd also have feather boards on the top to hold the timber down and also one holding it in. You could make a couple of passes and adjust the height each time rather than going full depth in one hit but if it's pine you are using , that isn't going to be critical. 5mm isn't all that deep anyway.

To get the position exact, set it up by eye and then run a scrap offcut through. measure result, adjust, run it again etc. until it's just right.

Thank you Sir!

That's what I thought, a table would be easier. Your assumption is almost right.....I'm going to make one. Nothing fancy yet, initially one built on top of a Workmate, based on this one: http://www.sawdustmaking.com/Router%...uter_table.htm . I had a couple of office desks that I broke down so I am going to use 2 pieces of this laminated together for the top and the other bits for the sides/bottom. I am going to get a baseplate from Lee Valley. Later on I'll probably use plans from PlansNow for a better one.

Cheers
Bruce

Originally Posted by brucen

Thank you Sir!

That's what I thought, a table would be easier. Your assumption is almost right.....I'm going to make one. Nothing fancy yet, initially one built on top of a Workmate, based on this one: http://www.sawdustmaking.com/Router%...uter_table.htm . I had a couple of office desks that I broke down so I am going to use 2 pieces of this laminated together for the top and the other bits for the sides/bottom. I am going to get a baseplate from Lee Valley. Later on I'll probably use plans from PlansNow for a better one.

Cheers
Bruce

G'Day brucen,

I also agree with Gumby. Spot on.

For router table inserts, tops, tracks & what not, have a look at the Aussie distributers of things "routerish" at http://www.woodpeckers.com.au/

Cheers!

Another good , easy to make router table can be found here......

www.gifkins.com.au

In the meantime, I have a Router DVD showing a table as nothing more than a piece of melamine clapmed to a bench with a decent overhang, the router screwed in underneath and another straight bit of timber clamped in place for a fence. Accurate and very basic.

Originally Posted by Gumby

Another good , easy to make router table can be found here......

www.gifkins.com.au

In the meantime, I have a Router DVD showing a table as nothing more than a piece of melamine clapmed to a bench with a decent overhang, the router screwed in underneath and another straight bit of timber clamped in place for a fence. Accurate and very basic.

Hi Gumby,

That would be the "Router Joinery" DVD, published by Taunton, and featuring one very capable gent by name of Gary Rogowski. Like Mark Duginske with bandsaws, Gary is an absloute ace with routers.

That 'table' of his is so basic, yet performs all of the things that we mere mortals just imagine we can do with fancy gegaws. He even goes so far as to say that these fancy machines are ok, but he can manage just fine without - and proceeds to show that he does indeed manage. Beautifully!

For any learners out there, like me, I'd strongly recommend a few dollars invested in some of these Taunton (or other) DVDs is money well spent. Just look at the tour that Mark's DVD has made around this BB!

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hi Gumby,

That would be the "Router Joinery" DVD, published by Taunton, and featuring one very capable gent by name of Gary Rogowski. Like Mark Duginske with bandsaws, Gary is an absloute ace with routers.

That 'table' of his is so basic, yet performs all of the things that we mere mortals just imagine we can do with fancy gegaws. He even goes so far as to say that these fancy machines are ok, but he can manage just fine without - and proceeds to show that he does indeed manage. Beautifully!

For any learners out there, like me, I'd strongly recommend a few dollars invested in some of these Taunton (or other) DVDs is money well spent. Just look at the tour that Mark's DVD has made around this BB!

Cheers!

That's the one allright

I would be following Gumby's advice, he is spot on again, as usual


Maybe we need to start a new forum and call it "ask Gumby"

Gidday brucen

Well I'm going to go against the grain here. If it were me due to the length of the job I'd be bringing the tool to it!!!!......................

I do this kind a thing all the time flush trimming stock n doing dadoes n rabids. This is a handy skill to learn and well worth getting proficent at. First thing to do is to get yourself a good straight edge. I got mine from total tools in a package and can be seen here:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=15178

If doing a rabid 12mm from the edge of the stock the first thing I do is mark out a reference line. then do the following:

1. Work out the closest part of the router bit cut to the straight edge you are using...............do a practice run on some offcuts and measure this distance (On mine its 85mm)

2. Draw a second reference line for your straight edge this distance from your 12mm reference line. This new line is the referance mark for the face of your straightedge.

3. Set everything up for your run..................and get your router and push it up against the straight edge..............plunge the router so that it is just shy of touching the stock.

4. now whilst unplugged rotate the router bit by hand checking that it does not go past the middle of your 12mm reference line.........slide the router along the straight edge checking again in the middle & at the end of the cut.

5. Tap your straight edge with a wooden hammer as required to make adjustments....................n theres ya Apples easy!!!!!!

Once you get competant at it this is easy as ............... let us know if ya give it ago n i'll post some pics to help you out if ya like!!!!

Regards Lou

I agree with NewLou on this one.

It's quickly set up and requires less floorspace & toys^H^Htools. [Urk! Do I feel the pull of the darkside? :eek:]

If you can't accurately push a hand-held router against a straight-edge, then what chance have you got to accurately push the piece against a router fence? Unless you're a member of the Abrams family and consider a power-feed a common accessory...

Originally Posted by brucen

This bed calls for a dado cut the full length of a 3m piece of 90x19 pine stock, 12mm in, 19mm wide, 5mm deep.

ok im going ot ask the obvious question that nobody has asked - what part of the bed is 3 m long? thats bigger than the average bedroom. is this a family of giraffes or something??

cant we cut this stuff to length and then cut the dados or grooves? probably a more manageable 1.8 - 1.85 lengths now

Thanks guys for all your answers.

Firstly let me answer Doug.....it seems I have had a "DER!" moment. Due the this flu I have my calculator skills went a bit ary (sp?). It is infact 1.9m, not 3m. How I got 3m from 75" I have no idea! :eek:

Gumby & AB - thanks for your input. Looks like I might have to visit the bookshop in Windsor and find myself some router books

Lou - thanks for an alternative. I'll definately try that out too. Lot's to learn with this new toy.

Cheers
Bruce

Bruce, for this one I'd use the router hand held as well, but I'd recommend using the side fence rather than a straight edge. Done correctly it is simple to execute and ensures the resultant groove is parralel with the edge of the workpiece.

As you said, just attach an offcut to the side fence on your router, it will bridge the gap as well as lengthen the fence, preventing "tip in" and making the start and finish of your cut easier and safer.

For the 12mm in from the edge, put a straight bit in and the side fence on the router, turn it upside down, then rotate the bit so that the cutting edge is at the closest point to the fence.

Then use something measuring 12mm (scrap of mdf/chipboard/drill bit, etc) to set the distance between the face of the side fence and the cutting edge of the bit. Snug up the thurmbscrews and it's set accurately with a minimum of measuring.

Remember to rout in the correct direction so the router pulls the fence against the edge of the workpiece, not the opposite (which is known as climb cutting).

Do a test run first with a 19mm bit if you have one, with luck the piece that is to fit in the groove will be a neat fit. Otherwise, you will need to make a second pass to make the groove wider, use the method suggested above to set the fence for the second pass, but use a shim (business card or whatever) as well as the 12mm offcut.

If you don't have a 19mm bit, use the same methods with a smaller one but the second cut will obviously be taking more off.

Doing a 5mm deep pass in pine with either bit shouldn't be a problem.


Good luck..........cheers.............Sean

Lou, how is he going to fix a straight edge to a 90mm bit of pine? Your average router base is too wide to allow this approach.

Hand held, you will need to do it in two passes because you'll need to clamp the work and there wont be enough clearance for the router. Clamp it, rout the dado up to the clamp, plunge and start again on the opposite side. Reposition the clamps, do the bit you missed.

I'd do it on a table with a couple of feather boards.