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21st February 2014, 06:15 PM #16
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21st February 2014 06:15 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
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21st February 2014, 07:18 PM #17
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21st February 2014, 07:26 PM #18
but like I say, there are other ways of doing it.
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21st February 2014, 08:12 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 651
Mine's just a homemade of 2 pieces of MDF sandwiched together with woodpecker phenolic insert.. Roughly 1200mm by about 800-900mm. Was made before I got LS Positioner, so used cutout from centre to attach a piece at the back with angle iron to get nearly full depth. Have only gone close to needing that depth once.
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22nd February 2014, 09:43 AM #20
Love those Clear Cut Stock Guides.
Added to my router table build too.
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25th February 2014, 03:44 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 651
Could always go high tech with this setup, http://www.rockler.com/ready2rout-router-table-fence
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26th February 2014, 08:31 PM #22
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6th May 2014, 08:06 PM #23Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 141
INCRA on sale
For those looking at INCRA, storewide anniversary sale save 10% on everything (ex-US) http://www.incrementaltools.com/Articles.asp?ID=131 until 12 May 2014.
Plus they have $10 off MagnaLOCK ring sets for the MagnaLOCK router plate.
NOt a whole lot dearer than the phenolic Kreg router plate with plastic rings they have at CarbATec.
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6th May 2014, 09:14 PM #24well aged but not old
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 925
I have never a triton described as clunky under a table. I have been using them for a very long time and I find them excellent. My current table is long and made of two sheets of melamine glued together and sitting on a welded frame. The router is attached to a Kregg router plate and the whole things works just fine.
My age is still less than my number of posts
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