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23rd November 2016, 09:10 AM #16Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2016
- Location
- Geraldton, Australia
- Age
- 38
- Posts
- 36
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23rd November 2016 09:10 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd November 2016, 09:51 AM #17
One of the very best and most incredibly cheap router tables I've ever seen was so simple it was elegant.
It was a router mounted upside down on two pieces of 18mm MDF glued together. A one inch (or so) hole drilled in it so the bit could get through.
The fence was a solid lump of wood pivoted on the back. The front is held in place with a clamp. To get the right distance one simply pivots the fence from the front. It is incredibly accurate, as a pivot at the very front means only a fraction at the bit.
Dust was a bucket screwed to the bottom and a hose inserted in the side.
This was used by a guy who makes some of the most fantastic boxes I've ever seen. Works of the most incredible beauty.
It was such a zero-dollar solution it was embarrassing. No need for whizz-bang routers, mega-dollar lifters or thousand-dollar fences.
Ill see if I can find a picture.
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23rd November 2016, 03:24 PM #18
This router table insert looks good value at just under $40:
235mm x 120mm x 8mm Aluminum Router Table Insert Plate For Woodworking Benches Sale - Banggood.com
Screenshot from 2016-11-23 14:23:12.png
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23rd November 2016, 03:40 PM #19Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
- Location
- Gold Coast
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 32
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23rd November 2016, 03:45 PM #20
At 120mm wide I'd say that was fair comment - but then I don't know the dimensions of the bottom plate of your Ozito router.
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23rd November 2016, 03:50 PM #21
I saw that comment too but I'd have no hesitation in drilling new mounting holes if the originals don't fit. I chuckled at this comment:
" But the plate looks great. I wanted to drill new holes for my router, but i decided not to. I will keep it as is and wait until i buy a trimmer router. It is so good, i don't want to spoil it"
The way I'd do it would be to lay a piece of clear plastic (like they use to store documents) over the bottom of your Ozito and mark where the holes need to go then transfer this to the plate and drill through the plastic. That way you could keep it centered relative to the original holes.
You might also want to consider one of these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hemWPzLiFY
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23rd November 2016, 04:00 PM #22Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
- Location
- Gold Coast
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 32
I will check tonight, with regards phenolic insert plate, what do you guys suggest. Besides the Triton with their height adjustment over the table, Are there there any other routers who had this type of adjustments or at least, micro adjustment under the table to lift the bit (not a proper lift I mean) ?
Vanni
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23rd November 2016, 04:55 PM #23
I bought my phenolic one from PWS but they don't seem to list them anymore.
Carbatec has a Kreg phenolic one with 3 insert rings for $99
https://www.carbatec.com.au/routing-...plate-tl-blank
or Timbecon has an aluminium one with only 1 insert for $89, but extra inserts are pricey.
https://www.timbecon.com.au/routing/...mounting-plate
They also do the Kreg plate and seem to charge less for the inserts
https://www.timbecon.com.au/routing/...mouting-plates
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23rd November 2016, 05:47 PM #24Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
- Location
- Gold Coast
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 32
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23rd November 2016, 06:01 PM #25
Carbatec sell a cheaper , thermoplastic (ABS), plate for $49, personally I wouldn't buy it as they tend to distort over time.
https://www.carbatec.com.au/routing-...ble-insert-kit
The Kreg phenolic plate with 3 inserts is admittedly double the price but should gove long trouble service.
Not too sure why they sell a levelling kit, my phenolic plate has a grub screw in each corner that is used to level it.
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23rd November 2016, 07:00 PM #26Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
- Location
- Gold Coast
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 32
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23rd November 2016, 07:06 PM #27
Vannip, if you read my thread on my router table build you wouldn't be asking that question.
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23rd November 2016, 07:19 PM #28Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
- Location
- Gold Coast
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 32
Apologies, I relooked and saw the tra001. I just noticed that my Ozito does not have a micro adjustment and this might be a problem if mounted on a table. Besides the Triton, any other reputable Brand with a suitable router with micro adjustment?
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23rd November 2016, 07:24 PM #29
One thing that many newbies think (I'm the very worst) is you need super dooper whiz bang solutions to solve a problem.
I was looking at Andrew Crawfords box making site. He and I were chatting a while back and he sent a photo of his router table. I kid you not, it was the rattiest thing I've ever seen. Its literally attached to his bench with a couple of G-clamps.
This dude make mega dollar boxes and hinges attached with amazing precision, yet the solution employed is absolutely primitive - and works perfectly.
Seriously, get a thick piece of melamine chipboard (kitchen place or glue two MDFs together), mark & drill the router mounting holes and a decent hole for the plunge bit. Mount the router underneath then make a fence with a bit of 90x45 MGP10 from Bunnings (or a few bits of the MDF glued together into a suitable baton) . A bolt goes in one end at the far end of the table (this is your pivot). The end closest to you is secured down with a g-clamp or such. Adjust the distance at the bit by swinging this arm.
Make a cove in the fence if you need to embed the bit, such as if you might use it as a jointer or for edging bits.
There is ABSOLUTELY zero need for squareness or such on a table.
Ill re-mention the main bit hole. One tends to buy a table and a whole bunch of inserts. Guess how many of those you end up using...... none. I always just keep the big one fitted as the dust collection below likes a big hole. One does not need a zero clearance for router bits. If you do feel the need for inserts, make those too. Fit them in place with three screws (counter sunk of course).
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23rd November 2016, 08:49 PM #30
TRA001 microadjust doesn't really work when it's inverted, have to reach under the table and squeeze the router up to relieve opposing force on winder and then wind and let it drop back down a bit.
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