Thread: Dilemma with regards router / table. I am such a newbie :-)

Originally Posted by Kuffy

Woodpixel, I have the woodpeckers aluminium router plate and it comes with 3 plastic inserts. I use them all. I use the big one for better dust extraction when the workpiece is big enough that it won't fall down the hole. I use the insert which accepts porter cable style guide bushes. And I use the small one when I am doing tiny parts which would fall down the hole if I use the big one.

Ah, yes, well, EXCEPT those three exceptions... and, perhaps one or two more.... but never!

On my suggestion, I was hoping to give advice for a low (or zero) dollar solution. Myself, I run an embarrassing setup more akin to Aladdin's Cave of Wonders than a humble poverty stricken studio :3

Speaking of PC bushes, I'd really like to see how people use theirs in the table. I feel a little lacking in invention on those and quite sure there must be some creative uses....

Hi to all on the forum, I normally hang out on the dust forum, but under instructions from my wife I have started the process of tackling and building a router table for her – BTW She is the woodworker.

Was going to buy one but the price seemed way to high for what we may need, so as usual, it was up to me to come up something. Anyway, happen to find some white fully edge trimmed 25mm x 900mm x 500mm laminated MDF pieces that were used as heavy duty floating shelves (usually suspended by a tiny C section metal clamp at each end, as Masters are closing down I got them for $9.00 each, so grabbed enough to do the base, sides and a few spare for experimenting with the table itself.

As the exact requirements need for a router table and associated hardware are new to both of us, I’ve spent the past few weeks on YouTube, various forums and of course here.

Armed with a tiny bit more insight, I have managed to build the router table frame (draws will be made later), found some 55kg rated locking/wheels for $8 each and installed them, grabbed a low cost insert plate so I can make mistakes and figure out exactly what is needed in the robustness and the installation of same. Also managed to mount our smaller triton router with micro adjustment to the plate, built the dust extraction, 150mm port in the top back of the cabinet, no hose in the back of the fence, but still with through the fence extraction and modified insert plate extraction that is adjustable / variable between the two, depending on the job and setup, and almost finished the fence based on the old Deluxe Router Station design.

I decided to fit a separate air intake for the router motor as the way I’m pulling air across the underside of the plate and router top, I was worried I may starve the router. With a 3HP DC and a 150mm port trying to suck the router out of its dust enclosure, there is some serious air flow across the underside of the insert plate, and although that should also help draw air through the router, when I post pictures it may become apparent why I decided to add a small clean intake below and directly into the router motor.

So all up I’m at around $150 mark - router not included.

BTW hope I’m not hijacking the thread.

That can be an idea, I have a a thick piece of melamine chipboard, I suppose I need to get longer screws for the router to attach it.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

One thing that many newbies think (I'm the very worst) is you need super dooper whiz bang solutions to solve a problem.

I was looking at Andrew Crawfords box making site. He and I were chatting a while back and he sent a photo of his router table. I kid you not, it was the rattiest thing I've ever seen. Its literally attached to his bench with a couple of G-clamps.

This dude make mega dollar boxes and hinges attached with amazing precision, yet the solution employed is absolutely primitive - and works perfectly.

Seriously, get a thick piece of melamine chipboard (kitchen place or glue two MDFs together), mark & drill the router mounting holes and a decent hole for the plunge bit. Mount the router underneath then make a fence with a bit of 90x45 MGP10 from Bunnings (or a few bits of the MDF glued together into a suitable baton) . A bolt goes in one end at the far end of the table (this is your pivot). The end closest to you is secured down with a g-clamp or such. Adjust the distance at the bit by swinging this arm.

Make a cove in the fence if you need to embed the bit, such as if you might use it as a jointer or for edging bits.

There is ABSOLUTELY zero need for squareness or such on a table.

Ill re-mention the main bit hole. One tends to buy a table and a whole bunch of inserts. Guess how many of those you end up using...... none. I always just keep the big one fitted as the dust collection below likes a big hole. One does not need a zero clearance for router bits. If you do feel the need for inserts, make those too. Fit them in place with three screws (counter sunk of course).

Originally Posted by Vannip

That can be an idea, I have a a thick piece of melamine chipboard, I suppose I need to get longer screws for the router to attach it.

I suspect that may be considerably more difficult than it sounds...

Keep in mind that this is a build in progress. The door and crude draw bolt are being used to test and fine tune the Dust collection, they will be replaced when the final Port size and configuration is arrived at, you can just see the a test intake port at the very top to pull bulk air across the underside of the router plate.

Note: The router DC cabinet door is recessed back from the front to accommodate the Magnetic safety switch, the modified micro adjust knob and the plunge lock, all will controlled from the front panel.




The 150mm DC intake is directly in line with the router, again the cabinet back panels are screwed so they can be removed and modified as needed, also making it easier to install runners and draw hardware, later on they will be glued.

I have not made the fence locking hardware as yet, the fence is in its raw state and not finished in any way.

The air control box is screwed and partly glued so that I can modify the compartment internally as I fine tune the DC pickup.

I made some long Dados and did various timber routing today to test the dust collection, there was not a speck of dust left above or below the table. Considering the DC is not working as efficiently as it should be yet, I was very pleased.



Separate air intake for the router motor, it follows the router as it's raised or lowered, it in no way restricts the removal of or access to the router, it cost nothing.

IMG_4650.JPG

Approx 8mm Perspex from Bunnings
Sheet cost about $60 from memory but enough meat to make at least 2 inserts.

If I was to make another I'd use melamine and spend big on a router lift if I had the $$$ to spare.

IMG_4649.JPG

For anyone is interested:

A quick test fit up of the magnetic switch, that panel will later have router speed, micro adjust and plunge lock bought out.

Low DC flow detect cut-out (cannot start the router unless the DC is on AND there is sufficient flow at the table) and a 2nd emergency stop switch at the RH side of the table will soon be fitted.





Panel does not hinder access in anyway.

Please keep the examples coming. I'm finding them invaluable.
How important is it to be able to adjust the insert to be perfectly level with the table?

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The insert should be as level as possible with the table top to avoid the work piece catching as you move it across the cutter.

Very frustrating having the piece stopping mid cut as it catches when the insert is lower than the table top.

Hope my messy description makes some sense.

Steven.

OK so I'll plan to have some grub screws under the insert. I think I'll try to have these grub screws thread directly into the chipboard top and just hope that is satisfactory.

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I think you're over complicating things. If you use a router to make the rebate for the plate you shouldn't need any adjustment post installation...

Hey guys, I returned the Ozito routers as it was falling a part after a couple of times of testing it. Running took it back no question asked. Now, I definitely need a new router. I saw the Ryobi but it looks the copy of the Ozito so it is a no go. The other option I saw was a Makita (900w) with 1/4 and 3/8 bit. Nice, smooth but not sure if it is too much under power. I need something to use under a table, with some sort of fine adjustment. I know Triton has those features but I read controversial posts about it. Please help. I am also willing to buy a second hand one.

Unless you are 100% accurate with your rebate, you will need some type of adjustment, be it screw, shim whatever. Better to rebate slightly deep so you can adjust the plate insert up to the table height. If you can feel an edge with your finger then there is a chance small items will catch.
The other two important points are that 1) the router bits are 90 degrees to the table surface therefore the router must be mounted level and 2) the fence is 90 degrees to the table - particularly important if working with tall, thin pieces.
Reducing rings are also useful - I work with router bits from 3mm to 50mm so having a range of rings is handy.

Regarding the Makita 900W. Sooner or later, if you get into this great hobby with gusto, you will want 1/2" router bits and the Makita is 1/4" and 3/8". 3/8" aren't that common re local suppliers. Longer 1/4" can flex.

i've had my Triton MOF001 for almost 2 Years and, apart from buying new collets, it's been great once you iron out a few quirks. It also has a 3 year warranty. The problem is that the price has skyrocketed in the past few months.

As Lappa pointed out, the price was just too high for us. However we had the smaller 1.4 HP JOF001 and as we will not be spinning big diameter bits it’s gone into the table, and will be staying there.

We have a small unit for any small plunge work. The smaller Triton has most of the features of the big unit, like micro adjustment from below and through the table, auto locking single spanner bit changing, speed control, soft start, and takes our ever increasing selection of ½ bits.