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27th November 2016, 03:42 PM #46
Just added a T slot across the top of the fence for fitting things like an adjustable clear guard, vertical feather boards and stops.
Been reading safety issues and user stories with table routing accidents going back 15 years, once again there is some really great information on this fantastic web site, really should be required reading for anyone new to routers and especially on a router table.
I’ve also come to realize that conventional router table DC setups I’m seeing on the web and numerous wood sites are seriously flawed, and become even more so for certain routing tasks, but that’s a whole can of worms right there. It’s forced me to spend the past few weeks going back to square one and attempting to think outside the box, am now in the process of actually testing some ideas, and it looks promising.
If there is dust in the air then I can’t be in the room, so good "at machine" extraction is vitally important to me.
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27th November 2016 03:42 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th November 2016, 03:44 PM #47Intermediate Member
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- Jan 2016
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I think I am sold on the little Triton. Timberbits has it for $239. Good deal?
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27th November 2016, 04:00 PM #48
I can't find it much below that, they had free delivery on their ebay listing, don't know if it's still a current offer.
Yep, just found link.
Triton JOF001 Compact Precision Plunge Router 1010W
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27th November 2016, 04:19 PM #49Intermediate Member
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Ordered the small Triton! $239 shipping included. I am happy with that.
I am not a pro and this will be a nice and safe start for me )
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27th November 2016, 04:49 PM #50
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27th November 2016, 06:52 PM #51Woodworking mechanic
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- Jan 2014
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- Sydney Upper North Shore
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Removing or replacing the spring takes about 1 minute. Triton state to remove the spring in table mode. It places an extra strain on the micro adjustment gears if left in.
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27th November 2016, 08:37 PM #52
Second hand Makita is the way to go. I bought one second hand twenty years ago and it still runs like new. I bought a second one two years ago and it's great too. There's one on Gumtree at the moment (3600BR) for $90. It's a bargain.
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27th November 2016, 09:10 PM #53New Member
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- May 2015
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- Melbourne
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Very similar to the routers mentioned above I'd suggest a used Hitachi TR12, they're like the old Toyota hilux of routers.
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27th November 2016, 09:46 PM #54GOLD MEMBER
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- Albury
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When adjusting the level of any insert in a table it's pretty hard to go past good old masking tape.
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28th November 2016, 05:14 PM #55GOLD MEMBER
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My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE
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28th November 2016, 07:20 PM #56GOLD MEMBER
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- Albury
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Yep. Works great, particularly if you can screw the insert down on to it.
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1st December 2016, 01:58 AM #57Awaiting Email Confirmation
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- Jul 2006
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- Bunbury, South Western Australia
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Bugger, wish you were over here in the West, I've got a spare Triton top you could have!!! However, don't waste any more dough on cheap routers, they're not worth it. Bite the bullet and buy a decent one. Half inch if you can afford it. In the long run you'll be glad you did. I do all sorts now, don't be frightened of it. Just respect of course. I made all our skirting in an hour from MDF (wear a MASK !!!!) I wouldn't be without it. Hung a door, routed the hinge slots? and the jambs about three minutes. Speaking of doors, I bought some plain interior doors and routed 3 X 1mm grooves top to bottom saved 40 bucks a door. Brace yourself for this one, I'm thinking of making a laminated beam from short lengths of scrap 75mm X 8mm and joining them by routing that saw tooth in the ends before glueing, best of luck from WA, Shaver.
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5th December 2016, 12:56 PM #58Intermediate Member
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Hi guys,
just want to thank everyone for support, advice and show off projects. I purchased the little Triton which has mostly all the good features of its big brothers (except the power). I created an insert from a piece of plywood and mounted in my home made table saw (Dewalt 744XE) enclosure wings. I mean, I am sooo happy. I can change the bit, above the table and use the winder to raise or lower the bit.
It's a temp setup as I reused the same top (3/4 inch mdf); in the close featured I will create a better table top, but hey I am soo happy. Thanks all.
Vanni
https://goo.gl/photos/xVwkfCEyeRULd1zt9
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5th December 2016, 11:50 PM #59GOLD MEMBER
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- Apr 2014
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- Kew, Vic
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Vannip,
I have a Woodpeckers router table with all the bells and whistles - microadjust, tracks everywhere, offset fence etc. I'm sure all this is good, but I find the inserts often don't sit completely flat, the two halves of the fence are difficult to line up exactly and the tracks sometimes catch the material going across the table. Almost certainly this is pilot error (me) but I've come to realise I don't need this level of complexity. As Woodpixel says, the master boxmaker Andrew Crawford uses a very simple table. Similarly, if you look at the table used by Ian Hawthorne (who made boxes for the UK royal couple) you will see it has a sheet of UHM low-friction material across it - no tracks - and just a hole punched in to let the router bit through.
Happy routing!
Brian
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6th December 2016, 03:04 PM #60
Great to get it going I bet, best of all you made the first one out of whatever you had laying around and now you get to try out what you actually need in a table, fence etc. for the work you actually do.
I'm so glad that I bought two spare bargain priced cabinet tops, I get to drill holes, try different fence clamping and adjusting systems, stuff around with dust extraction and generally try everything I can before converting that lot into the final top for the router table.
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