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9th June 2012, 03:40 PM #1Senior Member
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I don't understand this at all....
Hi Good Peoples,
I am making, or it would be more accurate to say, trying to make a couple of shelves for a project.
I bought a CMT Reversible Glue Joint Bit (see picture) to help (screw things up. )
I ran the wood through and then flipped the wood to do the other edge and repeated as necessary.
At each end, the two pieces fit together nicely and all all is well. The problem is, as it gets closer to the centre, it seems to bow up on one edge. The down, first, or non flipped edge. (See second and third pictures.)
It has done it on every cut!
All the bits have been put through the thicknesser and have had quite a bit shaved off, so they should be flat. I have checked and the fence is at 90 degrees to the table, so what else can be causing it?
Cheers
RicCheers
Ric
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9th June 2012, 04:04 PM #2Deceased
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Putting the boards through the thicknesser means that they are the same thickness but not necessarily flat as it will not eliminate any bows in the timber.
To remove that you first need to use a jointer to get one side flat and then thickness to the flat side.
Check to see if there is a bow in the planks.
Peter.
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9th June 2012, 04:31 PM #3Senior Member
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9th June 2012, 06:50 PM #4
Did you use featherboards to bold the boards firmly to the table surface and fence?
Did you arrange additional infeed/outfeed supports either side of the table to support the overhanging boards?
Is the table and insert truly flat, or does it have a bow or a slightly raised or dropped insert?
Have you measured the thickness of the blanks at several points along thier length to ensure that there is minimal variation along each piece and between mating pieces?Snipe effects could throw out the entire setup procedure for the bit.
All of these things can make a big difference to the success or failure of any profile routing task, and the bit you are using would double up the appearance of any error, as the error in the flipped edge would be in the opposite direction to that on the normal edge.
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10th June 2012, 08:43 AM #5
Hi Rick,
I had this happen to me with v joints. I found that I was letting the center of the board ride up , once I fitted a finger board to each side of the bit it solved my problem.
Regards
HaroldLearn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Albert Einstein
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10th June 2012, 12:13 PM #6Senior Member
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- Dec 2010
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- Moss Vale
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- 379
Thanks for the comments and suggestions.
I did you a feather board on the intake side but not the out fence. However, I don't think that is the problem. It looks like it is being caused by a T track I put on the intake side which has bowed up a bit on one side. Lots'a four letter words!
I have never been really happy with my first attempt at making a router table. It cost me stuff all as I had almost all I needed and recycled timber, so now I know what to make for my next project.Cheers
Ric
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10th June 2012, 02:15 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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May also pay to check there is no movement in the router bearing or router mount to table. Particularly flex in the insert.
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11th June 2012, 04:54 PM #8Novice
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- Apr 2011
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- Brisbane (Manly West)
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- 18
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13th June 2012, 10:24 PM #9
Hey Torb,
This is just my opinion, but if you are using this glue joint bit to make an end grain chopping block or similar, I think you are prolly making work for yourself.
An edge to edge grain glue joint is a very strong joint anyway & then after it is cut & re-glued at the face, you will have no shortage of glue surface area.
As I said, JMO.
SteveThe fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.
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14th June 2012, 06:48 AM #10Senior Member
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14th June 2012, 10:01 AM #11GOLD MEMBER
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- Aug 2004
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- Perth WA
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- 2,036
Given the length of the boards using a router table will be a never ending battle. If the boards were short lenghts it may work better.
In my opinion you are better off doing it freehand as the small base of the router can more easily follow the timber as opposed to what you doing in trying/forcing the timber to follow the large flat bed of a table.
This link https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/m...atever-129285/ will show (me) doing it freehand.
As you will be aware there is a lot of trial and error in getting the setting just right so that the boards finish flush. I think its a fantastic joint. Goodluck
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