Thread: Dovetails on a router table

Originally Posted by Redback

Hi All,
I am new to this routing business and need some advice.

I have bought myself a triton router and table.

I went to a demonstration at Carbatec (Perth) an Saturday where they demonstrated how to cut sliding dovetail joints. However they did this all using jigs and holding the router.

I would prefer to get some use out of my table!, so I tried doing it at home. I had a great deal of trouble trying to do this just using the fence. I managed to do one joint that wasnt too bad, but I wasnt able to get a perfectly tight fit. If I moved the fence a fraction of a millimetre I was making the peg part either just too big or just too small.

Is there an easier way to do this.

I was also looking on this forum for a way to actually do dovetail joints using a table. From the sounds of it, you need to buy one of these incredibly expensive jigs. I was looking to see if anyone had a homemade jig that worked, but my search didnt find anything.

I have already spent quite a bit of money (and wasted a bit on triton planer attachment!) and can't really justify $400 + on a jig. (would these jigs help making sliding dovetails joints?).

Anyway, has anyone got a cheaper way? Are these $99 jigs that you use for handheld routers worth getting or a waste of money?. WOuld I need to buy a second smaller router to use these (Triton is pretty big)

thanks

RB

RB,

I can't help you with a home made jig but I did see an ad in Australian Woodsmith magazine for a dovetail jig that is made specifically for a router table and the Triton was listed in the Ad. Not sure how much it is, I'll see if I can dig it out for you.

HH.

Found it although it does cost $299, any of you guys familiar with this jig, is it any good?

http://www.gifkins.com.au/

HH.

I've avoided those $100 dovetail jigs for the simple reason that they are very fiddly to set up and the router is used hand held. As you mention, the Triton is rather large for that sort of use for extended periods. The advantage is that they will do blind dovetails as well as through dovetails.

Lots of Triton users, including me, have a Gifkins Dovetail Jig which is just fantastic, although it won't do 'blind dovetails. It's easy to use straight out of the box and is made especially for table mounted routers. Check out the website www.gifkins.com.au
You could get a basic kit to start with and I'd recommend the A20 size plates using 1/4 inch bits. The results you will get are simply superb. From fine boxes to blanket chests, it never needs adjusting once it's set and even if it does, it takes about 2 minutes!
It's the sort of tool you'll never regret buying and if you ever gave up woodworking or wanted to upgrade to an expensive Leigh jig, you'll find it very easy to sell at a good price. Everybody I know who has one is happy with it.

I too have the Gifkins, its a great jig. Simple and easy to use.

Here was i have made with it...

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=13985

Although if you are going to get a number of the templates over time, maybe a Leigh is the way to go.

I am happy with my gifkins, with and A10 and B10 template.

Although if you are looking for an easier way, some say a handsaw and chisel is all you need.

Paul (in Perth too!)

Check out the Kellar Jig next time you are in Carbatec Perth, you might be surprised at its versitility and price

I have a Gifkins jig with H10 and A10 templates and it is great, simple and v easy to use
Clint

Redback.


For sliding dovetails, why don't you make up a simple jig like the one the demonstrator used. It was only 4 pieces of 40 x 19 mm. They don't come much simpler and cheaper than that. Hope you enjoyed the demo as much as I did.

Originally Posted by gatiep

Redback.


Hope you enjoyed the demo as much as I did.

Ahh did your eyes meet over a MDF dusty room ?

Gday Redback, a couple of answers for you

- Haven't seen the sliding dovetail demo you have, could the problem be the dovetail "tongue" compressing with several dry fits? Or could your adjustments simply be a little too coarse, do you have the micro adjusters (just use one for this purpose) or could you make up your own to sneak the fence out a poofteenth, eg a bolt through a block of wood, clamp up to the back of the fence and turn the bolt a little which will creep out the fence.

-the $99 d/t jigs you have seen are the half blind types, look up a book or on the web for detail on the types of d/t. Through d/t jigs are simpler to use and produce a better looking joint IMO.

-the Gifkins jig is an excellent through dovetail jig, unfortunately a bit expensive (worth the $ though for those that have it).

-It IS possible to make your own through jig, if you have the patience and perseverence. I did this and it works a treat. Reply if you're interested and I'll post some pics and try to put together the details of how I made it.
-Look up Stots dovetail on the web, it is a phenolic template that you use to make up your own jig. Matching cutters available from them, the kit is very affordable. Downside is no-one here imports it from the US, so you would have to source it from there.


Cheers.........Sean, sneaker outerer

hi rb,
ive offered these to somebody else on the forum but they dont seem interested so ill do the same for you .
i have three different sized through d/tail templates made from 3mm ally, they are all set for 8* . use the templates to transfer onto 18mm mdf and use the same way as a gifkins jig.
they have been made on cnc machinery so they are accurate
they are boomerang brand so if your interested let me know, and well organize it. i dont think it would cost us that much in postage.
seeyasoon mik.

Im afraid I just last night received the Gifkin jig which I ordered a week or so ago.
Looking forward to trying it out. Just have to find time for it!. (theres so much work in finishing off a newly built house....if only I didnt have a full time job as well!!). I spent all last weekend doing brick paving...

As mentioned above, My problem with the sliding dovetail was probably that on the micro adjusters I was adjusting both sides of the fence, when I probably only needed to do one side. Though making some sort of jig that could be locked into a position for later reference is probably a good idea...

Anyways, thanks all for the advice.

RB

Originally Posted by mikmaz1

hi rb,
ive offered these to somebody else on the forum but they dont seem interested so ill do the same for you .
i have three different sized through d/tail templates made from 3mm ally, they are all set for 8* . use the templates to transfer onto 18mm mdf and use the same way as a gifkins jig.
they have been made on cnc machinery so they are accurate
they are boomerang brand so if your interested let me know, and well organize it. i dont think it would cost us that much in postage.
seeyasoon mik.

Mik,
I sent you a pm about this yesterday - would you please check.
Cheers

hi rev,
checked and responded!
seeyasoon mik.

"I am new to this routing business and need some advice.
I have bought myself a triton router and table. "

I too had a similar setup with the "2000-table saw" and produced sliding dovetails easily on this combination. (router table top on the 2000 base.)
I cut the dovetail across the 150mm board using the triton mitre gauge, then made the tovetail 150mm "tennon" by using the router table fence and the triton saw fence on opposite sides of the cutter, cutter half under the router fence. By running one cut each side, it took several passes on waste stock before getting it right but once set the fitment was 100% - tap home with mallet and no glue required.

Regards
Sandy across the ditch