Thread: Anyone used a Dremel for Routing?

I use the little router table with the roundover bit to make dominos from exotic woods. And I have used the straight cutter to pare away the edge of some timber and to dig a groove. Works well. The Dremel is a powerful little beast!

Regards,

Rob

I have also used the router table for small jobs.
Just bought the new cordless one and the Trio.

I also fell for the temptation of buying an OZITO Dremel type tool because the accessories were so cheap.
WOOW that thing is dangerous.
It only has a toggle switch and every time I picked it up my fingers automatically turned it on. I just avoided piercing my belly button
Guess what?
It is going back.

I have used the Dremel for routing some nylon type block to make a chain guide for my dirt bike this material is quite difficult to work. I have previously tried my router and the stuff just melt's and glue's itself back together and to the bit. Having the ability to slow the bit on the Dremel with the router base and it work's quite well as long as you work to the tool's ability and not try to do the cut in one pass but take several light cut's.
Regard's Rod.

Yes, I've used the dremel for routing using the Dremel Plunge Router attachement you can buy. It's made of cheap plastic but it works well and you just slip you Dremel into it and it then looks like a small plunge router and operates much the same. I've used it to do inlay and hinge mortice work with no problems. You buy the router bits from Masters as they are cheaper than the big green shed and they do a good job.


SB

I use my Dremel a lot, for small work in wood and various plastics. Where things get awkward is, as always, in setup - and setting up the Dremel for routing has a couple of real wrinkles.

I learned the hard way that the plunge router attachment needs considerable force on the screws holding the fence. The rods are smooth and shiny, and unless the screws are really tight the rods just slide out of position.

The "table router" attachment - at least the one that I own - is not flat; it has a considerable crown across the middle. I got around this by making an extra top surface out of 3mm aluminium sheet and some bits of angle. I had fun matching the slots for the fence etc, and it loses 3mm of cutting depth, but it's flat.

- Michael

I'm about to give the Dremel a try for routing. I was looking at buying their plunge router and router bench but after some research found a couple of alternates which should prove more useful.

First one is a router base made by some guitar tool maker. It looks like a very versatile little tool and precise as well.

Their router base - STEWMAC.COM : Precision Router Base
Their edge guide - STEWMAC.COM : Precision Router Edge Guide

Both delivered to Sydney came to $97. They also offer a set which includes an air pump and a router bit. STEWMAC.COM : Precision Router Set


The second one is a router bench which also looks very precise and versatile. This one comes in at around $150 delivered. I have not ordered this one due to the price. ROUTER TABLE

Will try to report back on the router base after I use it for a while.

I use the StewMac Precision Router Base with my Dremel for fine inlay work - its a fantastic bit of kit. A guitar-making mate put me on to this after he had a disappointing experience with the plastic Dremel plunge router base. The StewMac version is very well made indeed (as it should be for the price I suppose). They also sell nice mini router cutters to fit the Dremel.

When you get yours you'll find there is a point on it for attaching a small diameter flexible plastic hose. Hook this up to your compressor, and open the tap on the airline to give just a slow bleed of air through the tube. This is very effective in keeping the work area around the cutter free of debris, so you can see the line you are cutting to.

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

When you get yours you'll find there is a point on it for attaching a small diameter flexible plastic hose. Hook this up to your compressor, and open the tap on the airline to give just a slow bleed of air through the tube. This is very effective in keeping the work area around the cutter free of debris, so you can see the line you are cutting to.

Alternatively, I'm pretty sure you could use a fish tank air pump to clear shavings. I compared mine to the air pump on my scroll saw the other day and both push about the same amount of air.

I use my Dremel for routing on a daily basis, both the plunge router and router/shaper table. (Unlike Michael's my table surface is flat.)
An invaluable tool for small jobs, inlays etc. I even use mine with a sled for thicknessing small pieces of timber.

Not just a toy. The sheer speed, max 35000, makes them much more effective than you would expect. I usually run mine at about 27000 for routing and always make multiple shallow passes rather than chewing off chunks in one go.

As mentioned, you can get router bits for much less than the original Dremel ones, and in my experience they last just as long. You can also use small 3.2mm end-mills for extra detailed work. Mine go down to about 0.8mm. Gotta be gentle, though.

The thread on the plastic plunge router base's height adjustment knob stripped after a few months, but I had no trouble making another. You won't have this problem with the precision router base though - it's solid.