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13th November 2016, 05:50 PM #16
I have the Incra 17" LS and the Wonderfence and wouldn't be without it.
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13th November 2016 05:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th November 2016, 06:07 PM #17Senior Member
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- Oct 2015
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- Perth
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13th November 2016, 06:08 PM #18
There is a link in my signature.
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13th November 2016, 07:31 PM #19Senior Member
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13th November 2016, 08:51 PM #20
Using the Incra for dovetails isn't very hard and it gives very good results. My first ever job on the Incra was making 20 dovetailed drawers and they all came out perfect.
Of course, dovetails is not all the Incra is good for, although there is a large variety of sizes that you can do. You can also do double (and even triple) dovetails as well as finger joints.
It also excels as a router fence, particularly with the Wonderfence.
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14th November 2016, 05:58 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2011
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- Albury
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for the Incra positioner. Wish I had a Wonderfence. Yes, dovetails are easy enough provided you get the template book to start with. Once you get your head around it there is an Excel calculator that allows you to create spacing and patterns outside the template library. The best thing about the Excel calculator is that it allows you to work with other stock thicknesses.
I know there is a huge resistance against imperial on the forum, but if you get an imperial jig you have far more versatility when cutting joints. This is due to the fact that you get 32 increments to the inch instead of 25.4 AND you'll almost certainly be using imperial router bits NOT metric ones. It's not that hard and if you can get your head around it it's well worthwhile.
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14th November 2016, 07:50 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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- May 2010
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- Bendigo
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Ur right Aldav. In fact I find that things like blades for the table saw are all imperial anyway. It's easier to go with a 1/8 blade, get the saw sharpener to flatten the top, use 16 tpi threads for lead screws, etc.
Imperial rules, despite all the Frenchies efforts
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14th November 2016, 08:16 PM #23
Aldav is correct, I have the Imperial version and have never bothered to "upgrade" it to the metric one. Main reason is that ALL the original templates work with the Imperial version, only some with the metric one.
It is also much harder to find the correct router bits for the metric one.
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14th November 2016, 08:35 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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- May 2010
- Location
- Bendigo
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- 776
One thing I REALLY HATE though is ordering a 1/8 bit and getting a 3mm. GRRR.
I know it's only 0.2 mm diff, but you'd reckon they'd know.
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14th November 2016, 08:47 PM #25
Yes Bob, that is not good. However in my experience it is far more often the other way around, you order a metric router bit and you actually get an Imperial one.
Happened to me several times, ie ordered a 16mm bit and received a 5/8" etc
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14th November 2016, 09:14 PM #26Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
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- Sydney Upper North Shore
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- 4,470
How true! Nearly got caught with these. Lucky I test drilled a scrap first.
http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/...d8-tdb8-detail
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15th November 2016, 07:11 AM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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- May 2010
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- Bendigo
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True, have had that once too - AAARGGGHHHH! what is with the workers in the average store?
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18th November 2016, 09:41 AM #28Senior Member
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- Apr 2012
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- Shepparton
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- 140
Hi Bob just curious as to how the router locks automatically I have the triton router bench with top winder but I can't get it to lock automatically when changing bits.
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18th November 2016, 01:46 PM #29SENIOR MEMBER
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- May 2010
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- Bendigo
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Hi Rob. How it should work is it just winds up till it engages the locking mechanism and then from teh top of the table you can use the spanner to unlock the bit. Now, i have noticed at times that while winding up things will stop before you get all the way up, not sure why. i find that winding it back down a tad, turning the spindle a bit then releases 'something' and it winds up fine. Hope that helps. if not I'll take photo's for you.
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18th November 2016, 02:04 PM #30Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
- Posts
- 4,470
May be a silly question but have you turned the router switch OFF. If still in the ON position, it will not allow the router to be wound up all the way
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