Thread: Not a Fit

The Triton router table will accept most other make routers, as the mounting brackets are adjustable. your question is a bit hard to answer as you have not included what model Triton table or the make of router you are trying to fit to the table.
Pictures would be great if you can.

Cheers Warren

Thanks Warren...wil acquire those details over the weekend.

Hi Cherp,
I have used flat steel, drilled holes and then bent them so they clamp the router base to the table. If you use this method do four. Use the diagonal long holes in the table.

Alternatively drill new holes so they line up with the holes on the router base where you normally clamp the bars for the fence. I have found these are usually m5 or m6 metric bolts/thread.

You might have to also drill through the plastic bit on the base as well, or remove it.

Let me know if you want piccies.

cheers
conwood

Conwood...I would love a couple of pics. I'm spatially challenged and they would be a big help. I took the Triton table to a hardware store and tried various routers in it and none of them came close. They must have originally been just for Triton routers. Your plan sounds good though. Thanks.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f15/fi...ghlight=triton

Have a look at the above link for the positioning of the router onto the table- the guy is about one step ahead in the instructions.( first photos)

Look at the clamp photos as well as these can be tricky

Pac man

I'm fast getting to the bottom of this. Looking at the pictures and solutions, it appears that my Triton router was probably used by Noah on the Ark. It's not like the one in the pictures and does not have the diagonal slots. My current plan is to cannibalise the top part and modify it into a router bench I will build myself.
Thanks for your help.

From memory this is what I did on a series three. It had two stiffening flanges underneath the table so I cut a plate (3mm will do) to fit neatly between the flanges and wide enough to accommodate the router base and then welded some brackets to the plate so I could attach the welded on brackets to the flanges, Wheelinaround might confirm this as it was a long time ago and he owns it now. I then junked the plastic plate screwed to the router base to regain the height lost by the steel sub plate. Mark the plate out to suit the router and drill holes for the bolts to attach the router to the plate. These holes are tapped for the CS bolts you are going to use. From the surface of the plate that will go up to the table under surface countersink the holes and use CS (unbrako type) bolts and a bit of Loctite screw them into the plate and attach the router with nylock nuts. Doing it this way will enable the router to be removed without having to remove the plate. Now bolt the plate in using the brackets that fit against the two end flanges, any old bolts will do with nylocks. You have just attached you router to the table. If the two flanges don't exist on your model attach it all to the edges of the table or some similar thing.

You're talking about the model I have Chris. It has two flange/clamps under it as you describe. I will give your method a shot. Thanks.

Sorry - I meant Mini. If you're a diamond member you've probably encountered and defeated this sort of thing years ago.

No apologies needed, Chris will do. Any problems get back to me by PM.

I have found that my Triton router table has four clamps on the underside which are ajustable to the diameter of almost, if not all, routers. Once the router is held in position and the clamps adjusted for it's diameter, then four clamps will then hold the router in place.
My router table hole is 3 inches in diameter. What bigger bit would you be using?? I also sometimes use a collet extension bit to be able to use some of the small shafted bits I have in my collection.

I have sorted my router/table issue. I am now the proud owner of a big Maktec router. It will be positioned in my new cast router table from Carbatec in Launceston. I will be a hazard to shipping.

Terryv - I think my Triton router table-top (minues legs) is a very old model. It does not have the clamps you describe and neither does it have a three-inch hole for the bits.

Hi Cherp,
If you have an old Triton router table it could not have been designed for the Triton Router as even the latest 300 table was in existence before the Triton router. The router was designed for table use but they later bought out a mounting plate that had extra holes in it for their router so that it did not have to be clamped in with the brackets that are there for lesser routers. This is one chicken and egg story where I know which came first.