Thread: Fixing a sagging router table top?

5mm is a lot - a photo of underside would assist perhaps in finding a solution.

I'm not home at the moment, but it's one of these - Router table-best designed table on the market. Use with the Triton router!

Top to appears to be a single sheet of MDF-like material (with a tough surface). Looking at the pictures, there's already a strut along the back. Maybe mine's just had a hard life, or possibly the brace isn't fixed to the top surface.

Will post pics when I get in the shed next.

I've had similar issues with other flat surfaces in the past and one was a router table. I bought some cheap axle stands and jacked it up. Worked a treat.

Originally Posted by lyricnz

I'm not home at the moment, but it's one of these - Router table-best designed table on the market. Use with the Triton router!

Top to appears to be a single sheet of MDF-like material (with a tough surface). Looking at the pictures, there's already a strut along the back. Maybe mine's just had a hard life, or possibly the brace isn't fixed to the top surface.

Will post pics when I get in the shed next.

I really need to see the underside pf the table but if its MDF It's going to be very difficult to pull the sag out of it.

It might be easier to remake the whole top with 2 layers of 18 mm MDF.

Originally Posted by BobL

It might be easier to remake the whole top with 2 layers of 18 mm MDF.

Or see if you can get an offcut of Laminex benchtop; then you get the thickness plus a smooth, low-friction, hard-wearing surface

a thicker top would likely mean cutting a rebate into the underside to ensure you don't lose cutter length.

The description says that it is made from compact laminate. Good luck straightening that. I would be shocked if you could get it straight. Best best is to get some off cut 32mm benchtop from a local cabinet maker or kitchen manufacturer etc.

Should cost peanuts and will support the weight of the router with ease.

If you purchased that new, send it back. If second-hand, contact the manufacturer - they built it for the Triton, and it is faulty.

Yes, you can re-make it. But why?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Okay went out tonight and it’s not as bad as I guessed - is about 2mm sag. Photos attached.

Maybe I could shim the center of the horizontal beams below?

Is it out enough I should bother?






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How thick is that top from the pics it looks about 18/19 mm.
But that could just be the angle, the picture was taken from.
Saying that if it’s only 19 mm , I would scrap it an get something thicker, either a kitchen counter off cut.
Or some 32 mm MDF or laminate some board material to get a decent thickness.

Cheers Matt.

Are the front and rear braces also sagging or is it just the top deck sagging between them. Is it possible to flip the top over and counterbore the holes from the opposite side as you might be able to pull the top down with the screws to get it level.
2mm sag will be plenty to annoy you. Just a fraction of a mm will mess up certain operations.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

How thick is that top from the pics it looks about 18/19 mm.

According to the Gifkins website it's only 13mm thick. Waaay too thin in my mind; and because it doesn't use an insert plate your router has to screw to it losing 13mm plunge depth.

I'm somewhat underwhelmed by this product.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

I'm somewhat underwhelmed by this product.

You're being kind Chief. It's bloody awful (sorry OP). As others have said, the top needs to be remade in something thick and an insert made or purchased.

I only purchased it second-hand, so have no recall to the manufacturer. I didn't actually check it front-to-back, I assumed it was a 3-dimensional sag, but maybe it's just left-to-right (long axis). I supposed I need to build a proper router table sometime anyway (with dust collection), but was hoping to avoid that expense. #coronovirus #underemployed