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  1. #1
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    Dec 2015
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    Default One-handed use for a disabled guy

    Hi. I'm looking at a handheld router such as this. I only have one-hand and looking to use Router for Roundover work, cutting off 8mm Plywood, and hopefully able to also cut shapes out of joined wallboards, to create those rustic looking signs like this.

    I am semi-proficient as using the Jigsaw, drills and Circular saw, but I have no idea if the particular ergonomics and forces involved when using the router. I'm pretty sure I'd be fine when using one that mentioned 'holding one handed' or similar.

    I also don't know if I'd be better off with the Router Table types instead. Or both types? (sssh don't tell my Wife)

    Your two cents, pennies or random thoughts are sincerely appreciated.

    Thanks for reading, have a great weekend and get back to work, if you should

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Bendigo
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    Trim router would be fine, but even a 1hp like my Triton would be a tad dangerous one handed. I've been looking at the Makita 700W job, it's $195 at Bunnings and quite robust.

    Remember, it's the torque we have to deal with. Being able to wrap your hand around the trim router is the big advantage. Downside is the 1/4 inch shank, but be sure you use good quality bits, none of that Bunnings 'Ultra' brand stuff like I've got, and desperately want to replace.

  4. #3
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    May 2010
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    By the way, welcome mate

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    13,315

    Default

    The smaller routers are suited for hand held operations. You can mount these in a table just not going to give you a great deal of power. So it would seem that you need both, I won't tell your wife as long as you don't tell my wife.

    When you want to make a sign I would suggest adding an extended perspex base to the router which can give you more support on the piece you are making so the router does not tilt.

    As for plywood it might not be the best substance when making a sign as it might be prone to chip out. Some plywood are made with different grades and they may have voids between the inner sheets. You might be better using solid wood or MDF to made a sign. One word of caution and that is the dust from the MDF is not very good for ones health.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Brisbane
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    51
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    27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bendigo Bob View Post
    Trim router would be fine, but even a 1hp like my Triton would be a tad dangerous one handed. I've been looking at the Makita 700W job, it's $195 at Bunnings and quite robust.

    Remember, it's the torque we have to deal with. Being able to wrap your hand around the trim router is the big advantage. Downside is the 1/4 inch shank, but be sure you use good quality bits, none of that Bunnings 'Ultra' brand stuff like I've got, and desperately want to replace.
    OK. Great to know. Thanks!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
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    51
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    27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    The smaller routers are suited for hand held operations. You can mount these in a table just not going to give you a great deal of power. So it would seem that you need both, I won't tell your wife as long as you don't tell my wife.

    When you want to make a sign I would suggest adding an extended perspex base to the router which can give you more support on the piece you are making so the router does not tilt.

    As for plywood it might not be the best substance when making a sign as it might be prone to chip out. Some plywood are made with different grades and they may have voids between the inner sheets. You might be better using solid wood or MDF to made a sign. One word of caution and that is the dust from the MDF is not very good for ones health.
    Thanks for that. I've got a decent face mask of using when sanding MDF and testing spray paint. I have seen some of my early plywood tests on my Laser get those little burnt pockets Must be frustrating when I'm production and it ruins a job

    Great tip with the perspex base.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Peoples Republic of Bryn
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    393

    Default

    A trim router would be fine, i used them a lot making kitchens and only ever used one hand.

    Like some one else has pointed out, its the larger routers that will cause issues, as its a two hand operation to control them.

    I'm a para, so i stick to using a Festool 1010, as it has enough power to do most jobs, but it doesn't throw me around.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,559

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    One of the handiest tools in the workshop. you will be amazed at the number of things that it can do and quickly. no problem with one handed usage. Can be fitted in a router table. As said earlier, a larger base will aid with stability.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Helensburgh
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    7,696

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    I would look at using a foot switch if it was me, if something did go awry release the switch.
    CHRIS

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Perth Western Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I would look at using a foot switch if it was me, if something did go awry release the switch.
    That is very important also consideration should be given to changing cutters as this could also be a problem
    Learn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides

    Log on to You Tube for a collection of videos 'Routing with Tom O'Donnell'

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Age
    90
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    784

    Default

    One-handed use for a disabled guy
    Hi. I'm looking at a handheld router such as this. I only have one-hand and looking to use Router for Roundover work, cutting off 8mm Plywood, and hopefully able to also cut shapes out of joined wallboards, to create those rustic looking signs like this.

    This type of project is probably difficult even using two hands to produce the fine lettering on the signs
    Learn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides

    Log on to You Tube for a collection of videos 'Routing with Tom O'Donnell'

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    51
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I would look at using a foot switch if it was me, if something did go awry release the switch.
    You know what you're absolutely right. If I purchase this will be mandatory

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Imbil
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    1,167

    Default

    This trimmer from Makita has soft start so the torque should not be a problem and as for bit changing it has a locking pin on the shaft but that would I believe involve two hands but you can also use two spanners for this and using one against the bench and one hand this should be quite doable I would imagine. I have one of these and as a small router it is very useful.
    Regards Rod.
    Rod Gilbert.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dungog
    Posts
    274

    Default

    Go with the lower power soft start, and DEFINITELY go with the foot switch. I made a stand for mine so that when I had finished a cut I could put the router in it with out worrying about holding it or putting it on the bench with the bit still spinning.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Bendigo
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    776

    Default

    That two handed spanner deal looks like the most vital thing to sort out. You should be able to do a test in store just to be sure.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert View Post
    This trimmer from Makita has soft start so the torque should not be a problem and as for bit changing it has a locking pin on the shaft but that would I believe involve two hands but you can also use two spanners for this and using one against the bench and one hand this should be quite doable I would imagine. I have one of these and as a small router it is very useful.
    Regards Rod.

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