Thread: Has this happened to you

Hi Malcolm,
The misalignment problem has happened to me with the Makita 3601B too but not by bumping into the template guide. It appeared when I was routing some trenches with several passes and steps appeared on the edges with each depth change due to this misalignment. At the time I was using it in a router table and my fix was to wind the bit to the final height of the cut, then use a variety of thickness sheets as false tops on the table which were removed after each pass. This gave me depth adjustment without adjusting the router. You'd have to replicate the template a few times in thin ply and find a way of aligning and locking them together (brass pins for eg). Then set the router to the final height and after each pass remove one of the templates. Might be easier to buy a plunge router!

Cheers
Michael

With this router if you always use the blue ring to make any adjustments and firmly lock it the body pretty much remains concentric as it moves up and down. This may mean that your guide bush is actually offcentre.

My advice is to make or purchase a centering tool to check that the template is actually concentric to the body. If the guide cannot be brought into concentricity then you will have to purchase a replacement baseplate and guide bush set.

I use my 3601B for all my template and jig work. It's been fitted with a Vermont American baseplate and guide bush system.

There was a post I contributed to a couple of months back where I provided detailed instructions on how to set up this particular router. I can't remember where the hell it is though! If you want I'll try to dig it out again later.

I have used the 3601B on and off most of my working life. For the tasks we were using them, mainly edge shaping & moulding, they suited the jobs better than anything else I have seen. Yes, the motor housing does indeed slide up and down inside the "outer boss" and there is plenty of play; by design I am sure. As I have posted elsewhere, this tool is a real workhorse in many areas but it has limitations and this, in my opinion, is one of them. It is not a precise machine for what you are trying to do compared to many of the plunge machines now out there. No doubt the play you mention can be designed out but in my opinion you are better off using a machine that was better designed for your intended role.

I don't have a plunge router, my old 36 is all I've had and have "made do" on a few occasions. I've been considering which way to go in powertools (and cordless) for some time now. In the cold hard light of day the three I would look at now are Festool, Makita & Hitachi in routers.

I found the thread where I placed my setup instructions. Click Here. If you don't have or can't get a centering tool try using an accurately machined bar of 1/2" material in the chuck, or possibly have a 1/4" reducing collet sticking out of the chuck so you can gauge concentricity within the guide bush.

Let me know if this works for you!

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

I found the thread where I placed my setup instructions. Click Here. If you don't have or can't get a centering tool try using an accurately machined bar of 1/2" material in the chuck, or possibly have a 1/4" reducing collet sticking out of the chuck so you can gauge concentricity within the guide bush.

Let me know if this works for you!

Thanks for that information, I have been using my router for some 25 years and this was the first time I had come across the problem.
I notice that when it occurred I was running a 5 to 6mm recess ( note the 1/2" bit had about 40mm long cutting edge), it did not occur when I was trimming an opening with the bit extended by about 20mm to 30mm clear of the face plate and in conjunction with the router template fitted, in this case the bit was relatively centre. I am of the opinion that if I had used a shorter bit when running the 6mm recess I would not have had the same problem or the bit would have been less out of centre.
As I see it as you lift the motor up in my case with the longer bit this allows the play between the motor and the boss to be more pronounced and then causing the bit to be out of centre to the point it was touching the inner edge of the guide.
I have a spare old router plate for the router I may be able to form slotted holes to allow for adjusting to suite the bit. Now that I am aware of the situation it is a matter now of adjusting to the circumstance.
As time passes by we all live and learn by our experiences.
Cheers
Mac

I think I may have worked out what the problem is after having a close study of what happens when you tighten the locking knob
In my case as you tighten the knob it actually rides up the metal strip that goes between the motor housing and the outer boss, by the riding up the strip it pulls the motor up on one side and therefore forcing the bit to be out of centre. I tried placing a thin washer between the plastic knob and the side of the boss, this actually helped to some extent as it stops you over tightening the knob.
Part of my problem may be because some time ago the metal strip went missing (dropped out) and I replaced it with a matching strip made from bright stainless steel. Being bright finish may cause the end of the bolt part of the knob to slip and ride up the strip.
The other alternate I was thinking of is to attach a nylon tip to the end of the bolt part of the knob this would then act as a non friction buffer between the bolt and the metal strip. The nylon tip could be turned out of a piece of nylon rod and made with a small dowel which would locate in a hole drilled in the end of the bolt. I suppose you could just use a small nylon plug say 6 to 8 mm long that you place in the threaded housing that takes the knob prior to fitting the knob, this would then act as the anti friction buffer.
I look forward to your thoughts on the situation.
Cheers
Mac

Hmm, have you tried to replace the brass strip? You never know; perhaps makita dealers or toolshops may be able to get it for you.

Alternatively, maybe someone in this forum can help? Try putting in a thread for parts in the "wanted" section as there may be a member with a dead router who'll happily donate the bit you need.

I could make you a new one using my own as a pattern, but I only have steel shim stock for the material. Brass would be much better.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Hmm, have you tried to replace the brass strip? You never know; perhaps makita dealers or toolshops may be able to get it for you.

Alternatively, maybe someone in this forum can help? Try putting in a thread for parts in the "wanted" section as there may be a member with a dead router who'll happily donate the bit you need.

I could make you a new one using my own as a pattern, but I only have steel shim stock for the material. Brass would be much better.

I did not realise the original strip was brass, what gauge is the strip made of on your router as I more than likely will have a piece tucked away in a corner.
Cheers Mac

I'll have a look for you on Saturday. I'll also photograph and measure the item so you will have as much info as possible. I won't have time to do it before then unfortunately.

I'm pretty sure it's brass, although I may be mistaken! It's been a few years since I pulled it apart...

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

I'll have a look for you on Saturday. I'll also photograph and measure the item so you will have as much info as possible. I won't have time to do it before then unfortunately.

I'm pretty sure it's brass, although I may be mistaken! It's been a few years since I pulled it apart...

I checked out Makita on the internet and I believe I should have no trouble purchasing a replacement part.
The part is called a "Lock Plate" part no 342290-2.
I shape according to the picture is a little different to what I thought and may account to why the plate I made is not working properly
I will check out the local tool shop as to availability today.
Thanks for your advise.
Mac