Thread: Help finding router bits

I could tell you where to get one made in Australia, but that probably doesn't help you.
Ask at your local saw sharpening services, they should be able to point you in the right direction.

Amana and Freud are probably a good place to start for something off the shelf. If you can't find something ready made, just do a Google search for 'custom router bit oregon', I did and found a couple of places on the first page of results

Each side of that profile looks like a roman ogee. Might be worth a look at one of them.

Originally Posted by jcoxbtl

I'm replicating a 2" interior door. 6 panel. Custom built in a 10 million dollar home.
I can't find the router bits I need.
I would like a door making set, but anything would help!
The drawing is to scale.
Thank you
door profile.jpg

what you have drawn looks like a lot like a cope and stick profile produced by a cabinet door making set
IMO a cope and stick door doesn't have enough tenon length or glue surface for the stresses an internal door is subjected to.

IMO you need to build the door "properly" with rails and muntins secured by mortice and tenon joints -- though you could substitute Festool's dominos for the M&T joints.

If you build with M&Ts, cut your rails and muntins overlength, rout the required profile on the inside of each style, rail and muntin. And then plane the profile off the section of each style where the rails go, leaving a 45 degree miter for the rail. The muntins are treated the same way.

Before I forget, welcome to the Forums.


Lee valley is a good source for slightly unusual router bits, especially their bits which match the Stanley #55 profiles Stanley #55 Molding Router Bits - Lee Valley Tools

Originally Posted by ian

what you have drawn looks like a lot like a cope and stick profile produced by a cabinet door making set
IMO a cope and stick door doesn't have enough tenon length or glue surface for the stresses an internal door is subjected to.

IMO you need to build the door "properly" with rails and muntins secured by mortice and tenon joints -- though you could substitute Festool's dominos for the M&T joints.

If you build with M&Ts, cut your rails and muntins overlength, rout the required profile on the inside of each style, rail and muntin. And then plane the profile off the section of each style where the rails go, leaving a 45 degree miter for the rail. The muntins are treated the same way.

Before I forget, welcome to the Forums.


Lee valley is a good source for slightly unusual router bits, especially their bits which match the Stanley #55 profiles Stanley #55 Molding Router Bits - Lee Valley Tools

It is for a 6 panel 2" Interior door

Originally Posted by jcoxbtl

It is for a 6 panel 2" Interior door

still the door is 2" thick, not the 1" or less of a typical cabinet door


AND if the house is worth $10 mill and contains custom built doors, why are you contemplating supplying what would be in effect be the same as a cheap door from a Home center ?

Originally Posted by ian

why are you contemplating supplying what would be in effect be the same as a cheap door from a Home center ?

That's a big call. I haven't seen anything in what he's said that would suggest that. How do you know he's not going to be making it properly?

All he's asked for is help finding a profile bit.

Thank you elanjacobs. You read my mind.

Originally Posted by jcoxbtl

I'm replicating a 2" interior door. 6 panel. Custom built in a 10 million dollar home.
I can't find the router bits I need.
I would like a door making set, but anything would help!
The drawing is to scale.
Thank you
door profile.jpg

You might have some luck having a look at the Freud Entrance Door range of frame and panel router bits. Freud's door bits are designed to produce a long tenon, so they overcome the weakness associated with using normal cope and stick bits that only produce stub tenons.
Freud - Entrance Doors Router Bits Advert.jpg
The image at left is a copy of a current magazine advertisement for the Freud entrance door router bits. Double click the image to see a much larger version which will enable you to read the details.

I bought a set of these router bits (off Amazon, as they're not sold in Australia as fair as I know) about two years ago. The set that I bought has a plain bevel, instead of the ogee that you're you're after, but I know that Freud have multiple styles available. They do what the advert says. I made four nice 1.75 inch thick Silky Oak internal doors using them. They were slightly more challenging to use than normal cope & stick style router bits sets, as there are some additional machining steps required to create the longs tenons.

Don't imagine that you'll be able to make the necessary router cuts in a single pass. When making 2" thick doors, these bits have to remove a lot of wood to create the joints, and if you want the joints and profile faces to be free of tear-out etc, then doing multiple passes is a necessity, which does make for a slow job when you're making multiple entrance/interior doors.

In my mind, the alternative, if you can't find a suitable set of bits in Freud's range (or in another Manufacturer's range), would be to find a commercial cabinet shop that has a spindle moulder, and if they don't have the necessary set of cutters, then get a set of customer spindle moulder cutters made in your profile. Doing the job with a spindle moulder would certainly be much quicker, and with a good sharp set of knives, the quality of the resulting profiles should be as good as, if not better than you could get with a router. Whether you outsourced just the spindle moulder work, or the entire door manufacture is a question you need to consider.

Hope that info helps,

RoyG

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

That's a big call. I haven't seen anything in what he's said that would suggest that. How do you know he's not going to be making it properly?

All he's asked for is help finding a profile bit.

Maybe it is a big call ...

but the OP is looking for a router bit with this profile


which is a similar (though very much deeper) profile to that found in cabinet door sets




and the OP's response to the suggestion that they should use long tenons like this




implies that in their opinion, the long tenon is unnecessary for an internal door.


although RoyG has suggested a Freud bit, I'm still a little perplexed why the OP didn't go for a standard ogee (I think that's the name for the edge profile) profile teamed with a rebate.
The ogee profiles will be separated by a 1/2 or thicker panel so any slight difference in the profile's positioning won't be seen


EDIT
best wishes to the OP in building his door

Originally Posted by ian

and the OP's response to the suggestion that they should use long tenons implies that in their opinion, the long tenon is unnecessary for an internal door

I can't see any response from the OP at all to that suggestion. Instead of trying to read between the lines and trying to work out what people are implying and what their unexpressed opinions are, let's just stick to answering the question that's been asked.

To my mind it's also a question of the structural adequacy of the profile being sought.

The OP was looking for a profile similar in shape to those used to cope the ends of the rails on a cabinet door.

In your opinion / experience, is the short stubby tenon cut by this sort of profile adequate for 2" thick multi panel internal door?
If your answer is no, then answering the question includes steering the person away from a profile that results in a short stubby tenon.

Originally Posted by ian

To my mind it's also a question of the structural adequacy of the profile being sought.

The OP was looking for a profile similar in shape to those used to cope the ends of the rails on a cabinet door.

In your opinion / experience, is the short stubby tenon cut by this sort of profile adequate for 2" thick multi panel internal door?
If your answer is no, then answering the question includes steering the person away from a profile that results in a short stubby tenon.

that is not at all the case. I know full well how to build a door. I just didnt waste my time replying to your arrogant rant. Of course I will cut extended tendons, but that in itself is not enough to hold a 250 lb door. After I glue up, I drill and lag them together at each rail, then plug, fill and paint.
You suggest using 2 different ogee profiles, THAT is poor craftsmanship. I want it to be perfect. And it will be. Your not even sure what an ogee profile looks like. . . Just quit wasteing space on forums with your unhelpful ramblings.


You know what it feels like to be wrong? A lot like being right.

Thank you guys for the help. I found two bits that will work.
CMT 867.503.11B Molding Bit
Freud 38-106 Quadra-Cut