Thread: hows the easiest way to make this ?

Well it would be better than a butt join, you could make the tennons "haunched" that is like your saying using the groove for the mortice and also a mortice completely through, after you cut your tennon you cut a "step" on each side of the tennon to sit in the groove.

Correction! The innerside of the of the tennon would'nt need a step cut as it would be the groove part so it will be already cut out!

Originally Posted by dvddvd

... Could i router a 5mm groove in each inner edge and then router the top and bottom with a tennon and use the groove i have put in the stiles to form the mortice ? is there a failsafe way to make the tennon on the rails to fit perfect into the groove on the styles

Cut the tenon on the end of the rails first. Start with the cutter just (say) 1mm above table height. Raise the cutter 1mm or so at a time flipping the rail over to ensure the tenon is centered until you have a tenon the required width. Then when you cut the stiles use the already-cut tenon to align your cutter. If you use a slot cutter you can use the same technique as for the tenons - start in the middle, then raise or lower the cutter in small increments whilst flipping the stile over to ensure it is centered. But depending on timber slot cutters often don't make very clean cuts.

Originally Posted by dvddvd

,the top and bottom is not seen so i could make the tennon full width of the rails.
..... would the 10mm groove be long anough for a strong tennon and mortice joint ?

No, the tenon will not be strong enough on its own unless you want to epoxy the plexi-glass in to also make it a structural member (why not? if you can't replace the glass anyway without destroying the frame?). Timber panels don't present this option, but a zero clearance glass panel arguably does? Does glass expand the way timber does? I don't think so.

You can make the tenon longer like Harry72 suggests ... that would be the craftsman's way of doing it. Or, just cut the tenon to slot length/depth and use a couple of dowels to add strength to the joint.

Qw

P.S. Do you really want to fix the glass in with the frame glue-up? A rebate for the glass is a safer option. With doors/panels like this it is hard to get all dimensions perfect before glue-up, so normally when I make such panels I design them to be 2mm or 3mm wider all round then trim them off square (using a table saw or hand plane etc) after glue-up. This is somewhat dangerous if you have a glass panel fixed in it! Qw

Originally Posted by QldWoodie

You can make the tenon longer like Harry72 suggests ... that would be the craftsman's way of doing it.

Thanks mate, never thought myself as a craftsman before just a sawdust maker!

Hi all the dimensions of the frame will be 1200m x400mm and the frame will be made out of 50mm x 18mm oak.
The plexi-glass is perspex (plastic glass) I just thought putting the plastic glass in the slot in the frame would make a neater job than just rebating and fixing the plexi-glass in the rebate.I would put a bit of silicone in the groove to take any rattle out and aid strengh.
I was going to cut a 4mm slot and use 3mm plexi-glass due to the fact the plexi-glass is normally a bit over but never under measurement..
Would it be strong enough if i used the 3mm it weighs a lot less than normal glass.??

It should be strong enough to hold the plexi and also glass if you want. Dont you think that plexiglass may detract from the overall finish? It tends to mark very easily and seems to attract more dust than glass does.

Your decison however.
beejay1

hi ,the only trouble with glass is trying to post the items by post, i did make some with glass which was cheaper, but the post office would not let me insure them for breakages,and several got broke,you can insure it for a special delivery (glass items etc) but it cost a fortune.