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Thread: Correct Router Bit
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17th November 2015, 01:42 PM #1New Member
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Correct Router Bit
Hi,
I'm new to woodworking and have recently started making a few toys for my son and would like some advice on a router bit that will help me with making the base of a wooden train.
I'm looking for a quick and repeatable method to do the rounded end of the item circled in the picture. Each carriage has two of these rounded ends so I have a few to make.
I’m thinking of using a router, mounted in a table, and a template.
The router bit is the thing I’m unsure of….I’m thinking a SpiralFlush Trim – Up Cut would do the job.
I’m trying to avoid tear out which I learnt on a previousproject and wish to avoid.
Is this the correct router bit? Maybe there’s another methodall together that you may wish suggest.
This is the router bit.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/whiteside-spiral-flush-trim-router-bit.aspx
The train body would be made from pine
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17th November 2015 01:42 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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17th November 2015, 04:29 PM #2
Spiral upcut will do a good job on the side furtherest from the table, but may be inclined to chip out at the side moving on the table. If possible, use an insert to close the gap and the table surface as much as possible to maximise support and minimise lower surface chipout (a 1mm clearance gap means that the bit shouldn't chip back more than 1mm).
I suggest a chamfer bit or a small round over bit with bearing to clear any chipout and break the edges at the same time, but if you can get the edges quite clean and free of chipout, then you may achieve a good broken edge by sanding.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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17th November 2015, 07:43 PM #3
What I do when using a template is drill a hole through a piece of 3mm MDF the same size as the router bit and then clamp the MDF to the table at each end. The bit is raised up through the MDF this creates a zero clearance table so that there is no room for chipout at the bottom as Malb has suggested. The MDF should be wide enough to support your piece you are routing, and long enough so that it can be clamped to the ends of the table.
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17th November 2015, 10:32 PM #4New Member
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Thanks for the replies Malb and Treecylce.
After reading Malb's reply I did wonder about a sacrificial piece between the pine and table to eliminate chipping.
The zero clearance table sounds a good solution, save time removing chipout.
Thanks
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