Thread: Incra CleanSweep

I don't understand. What does that hose exactly do?

Originally Posted by doug3030

Does this mean putting a piece of 4" pipe over the end of the router to use it like a snorkel to ensure that the router is getting clean air from outside the dust enclosure?

I think I mentioned doing this on the forum years ago but possibly in a previous "regeneration" of myself. It works well provided you can find somewhere for the source of clean air that wont pick up chips and fine dust from the floor. The amount of air the triton sucks into its top is more than most people would think.

Cheers

Doug

Hi Doug, yes it's an old idea but often overlooked, woodPixel found the photo that I was just about to repost.

Some people may be tempted to just put a hole below the dust cabinet, however with a good dust extractor you will still likely starve the router intake. This is so simple and it has the added advantage of not overheating if the DE to not running, in some closed cabinets designs without a fresh air duct and no DC running, you can get a recirculation effect and overheat the motor.

Originally Posted by barri

I don't understand. What does that hose exactly do?

It feeds the Router motor intake vent with fresh CLEAN air taken from below the dust cabinet, it keeps any dust that my be in the dust cabinet from getting into the motor, it stops the motor from overheating if the DC is not running and causing a recirculation of the router cooling loop.

Originally Posted by MandJ

Hi Doug, yes it's an old idea but often overlooked, woodPixel found the photo that I was just about to repost.

MandJ, I am not trying to steal any kudos. The way I did it was quite different and really did not totally solve the problem. It made it a complete PITA to change the speed for one thing. I used a solid length of pipe which passed through the bottom of the chamber which housed the router with about 1mm clearance all round it, but no dust would escape through that gap due to that chamber being connected to the dusty. I found that the router was still drawing in some dirty air as it was drawing form under the router cabinet.
I put that part of the build on the shelf to revisit "one day"

Originally Posted by MandJ

Some people may be tempted to just put a hole below the dust cabinet, however with a good dust extractor you will still likely starve the router intake. This is so simple and it has the added advantage of not overheating if the DE to not running, in some closed cabinets designs without a fresh air duct and no DC running, you can get a recirculation effect and overheat the motor.

I do like the idea of using flexible hose but I think I might use 6" flexi with a reduction collar around the end of the router to ensure that the router intake gets enough air. This would also mean slower airflow into the 6" pipe as opposed to the 4" pipe so it would in theory suck up less debris into the router intake. combine that with some sort of filter like those used in the air scrubber type of thing and it might just be a winner.

I'm getting all excited about this now. I might have to go out and have a play with the router table. I might even be able to make the reduction collar allow for some space to access the speed control.

Cheers

Doug

Originally Posted by MandJ

It feeds the Router motor intake vent with fresh CLEAN air taken from below the dust cabinet, it keeps any dust that my be in the dust cabinet from getting into the motor, it stops the motor from overheating if the DC is not running and causing a recirculation of the router cooling loop.

So this pipe is not connected to the DC, it just extends to the outside of the box is that correct???

Here's a pic from inside my cabinet. If I follow what you are saying above I would have to thread a hose to the outside attached to the base of the router ensuring I'm covering the vents. Is that right? I could do that by either drilling a 4" hole (I'm assuming its 4") on the back of the cabinet or straight down or doesn't it matter as long as the attached hose hits clean air. What do you suggest? Also, how does that hose stay attached to the router when its lifted up and down when changing bits?
20170101_084021.jpg

Thanks for the input Doug, obviously, to start with, the size of flex is chosen to match the intake of the router, in mine, the intake vents are on the end and the flex hose is a friction fit over that end, I removed a piece of the flex to allow full unobstructed access to the speed control, the flex sits in a collar (plastic lid) and as the flex is compressed between the bottom of the box and the end of the router, it maintains its position and expands / compresses to follow the router as it is raised or lowered and in no way interferes with the quick removal or installation of the router.

A: As mine is mounted in a full moveable cabinet, the air below the dust enclosure is completely clean.

B: IMHO you don't need a bigger hose, the location of the 150mm dust extraction port and the below table intake vent and deflection panel causes air to be pulled through motor cooling exit vents and therefore the flex, assisting the router fan to pull plenty of clean air through the motor for cooling. It's a very short flex and its flow capacity far exceeds the small intake vent opening that the router fan alone normally works with.

Originally Posted by barri

Here's a pic from inside my cabinet. If I follow what you are saying above I would have to thread a hose to the outside attached to the base of the router ensuring I'm covering the vents. Is that right? I could do that by either drilling a 4" hole (I'm assuming its 4") on the back of the cabinet or straight down or doesn't it matter as long as the attached hose hits clean air. What do you suggest? Also, how does that hose stay attached to the router when its lifted up and down when changing bits?
20170101_084021.jpg

Through the bottom would be the best as it allows you to compress the flex and it stays in position as the router is raised and lowered. The flex is currently not attached at either end, the lower end sits in a collar (plastic lid with the center removed), 3 timber block hold the collar central over the lower opening and allow you to easily remove the flex. You need to look at the intake vents of your router and find a way to encompass the vents with the flex.

The flex connection at the end of the router does not have to be a totally airtight fit. The whole idea of this flex is to stop starvation of the router intake, as once you have a correctly operating extraction port located at the "TOP" of the dust cabinet and the cabinet intake vent and deflection plate (if needed - depends on the router) fitted correctly, there should NOT be any dust at this lower location, but you could starve the lower box of free flowing air - and you could have a potential heat issue with recirculated air if the DC is not running.

I am so pushed for time at the moment that I hardly have time to post, (I try though) - but as soon as I get a chance next week I will post a few more pictures as I get back to the router table build.

Originally Posted by Dazm

So this pipe is not connected to the DC, it just extends to the outside of the box is that correct???

Yes, it's just a fresh air intake, obviously the extractor will assist with pulling air through the motor via this external intake port.

If the sub base method is used the router is washed by fresh air all the time as the air entry is via the router opening into the base. If a CNC spindle is used none of this is any concern of course as the motor is not vented at all. If I was starting form scratch the CNC motor would be very tempting as it takes all these problems away and in theory any maintenance costs caused by dust in the motor, has way way better speed control, can brake the router motor to a stop and so on.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

If the sub base method is used the router is washed by fresh air all the time as the air entry is via the router opening into the base. If a CNC spindle is used none of this is any concern of course as the motor is not vented at all. If I was starting form scratch the CNC motor would be very tempting as it takes all these problems away and in theory any maintenance costs caused by dust in the motor, has way way better speed control, can brake the router motor to a stop and so on.

Yes I agree, but I am going this way as I may be changing routers and building a lift for the other unit, so I need everything in the enclosure.

I have been looking at a CNC motor and VFD, again cost is a consideration as I already have the other routers. If I was not saving for a Cyclone then I would definitely go that way as it's an elegant solution, priorities again.

Can I ask a stupid question. What's wrong with simply opening the door when routing with the DC is on instead of that fresh air hose? I started to make this and just about to cut a 4" hole and decided to rethink. Is this worth it? I understand why you've done it and applaud your ingenuity but I know there are thousands of Tritons out there in router tables without problems.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

If the sub base method is used the router is washed by fresh air all the time as the air entry is via the router opening into the base.

I should have added that with the redesigned router mounting layout and a quad function insert / zero clearance / above table and fence extraction plate, that this single cabinet design is needed. Also worth remembering, the inlet flex cost nothing (left over from my DC installation), the collar cost nothing and the complete construction and installation took no more than 10 minutes.

I can see that I'm going to have to Photoshop something for it to make sense as it will be sometime before I can make the modifications to the table/cabinet, and I'll also look for a video link I recently found online showing a router table build that was along similar lines as far as through table dust extraction and insert.

Some photos of all your modifications, above and below, would be appreciated. It would make it easier to understand your aims and objectives.