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  1. #1
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    Default Incra CleanSweep

    Just about to put together my router table and was trying to decided whether or not to get one of the Incra CleanSweeps. Does anyone have one?

    I nearly bought one tonight but then I thought I could probably just build a wooden box with a port at the bottom to cover the router and do the same thing, the CleanSweep is nearly $200.

    Thoughts?

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  3. #2
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    Default

    It just looks like a box with a dust port on the bottom and a sliding door on the side. I don't think $200 is worth it when one could be made out of scraps. What insert plate have you got Daz? It looks like to create the downdraft you need your inset rings to have holes, like the incras or one large hole to allow air flow.

    The concept does look interesting.

    EDIT ... Just noticed on Incra's site they actually have plans to build your own downdraft box. Sounds ironic doesn't it?

  4. #3
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    Yeah I spoke to PWS and they said as long as the insert rings have a 5mm gap the down draught will work.
    ill have to check out their plans and make my own.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by barri View Post
    It just looks like a box with a dust port on the bottom and a sliding door on the side. I don't think $200 is worth it when one could be made out of scraps. What insert plate have you got Daz? It looks like to create the downdraft you need your inset rings to have holes, like the incras or one large hole to allow air flow.

    The concept does look interesting.

    EDIT ... Just noticed on Incra's site they actually have plans to build your own downdraft box. Sounds ironic doesn't it?
    i have the Woodpeckers insert.

  6. #5
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  7. #6
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    Jan 2014
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    Default

    Can you use the Triton extraction hose on the router as well as the CleanSweep? If not, I'm not sure that I would be confining my router in such a small space and pulling ALL the dust down over the router and out the bottom.
    Just a thought.

  8. #7
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    Default

    You would have to cut a hole Lappa but I agree with you about dust over the router. I remember talking to the carbatec boys and they said most of the repairs on tritons were caused by dust inside the body of the router. They said I should vacuum the vents regularly particularly after a big project. So having dust heading in the "wrong" direction would worry me greatly. I'll stick with a fence dust port but I will also have a port aimed at the bottom shelf of my router cavity in my cabinet. This shelf will be angled so dust will fall towards the port. When doing a dado I'll have a loose dust hose in line with dust flow from the cut. Better than having the Triton overheat in a small area

  9. #8
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    Default

    Ive a basic home made box under the table attached to a standard 2hp dusty and 100mm pipe.

    The cabinet is scrubbed clean. The TRA001 is whistle clean.

    The box needed a few extra 30mm holes drilled in a few places to let more air in. This helped both suck the dust from up top, but scavenge the box.

    It works very well indeed.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Ive a basic home made box under the table attached to a standard 2hp dusty and 100mm pipe.

    The cabinet is scrubbed clean. The TRA001 is whistle clean.

    The box needed a few extra 30mm holes drilled in a few places to let more air in. This helped both suck the dust from up top, but scavenge the box.

    It works very well indeed.
    Got any pics )

  11. #10
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    Default

    Air flow AKA 30mm holes would be the a key feature

  12. #11
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    Nov 2013
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    Default

    IMHO placing a dust extraction port at the bottom of the router cabinet is a flawed design. This idea appeared to come about years ago when only vacuum cleaners or very small dust extractors were being used. The correct location for a real dust extraction port (minimum 2HP dust extractor and a minimum 4" - 100mm port) is near the top of router extraction cabinet, and as a starting point, a wide air intake vent should be placed at the top of the cabinet door - opposite the extraction port.

    Depending on the router and its own fan exit vent location / design, you may need a small deflector or guide panel to ensure maximum flow across the bottom of the insert plate - between the router body and the insert plate. The correct design will pull air over the collet and the underside of the router bit and plate, this should remove all dust from the cabinet and router. However it's only a starting point for real dust extraction from a router table as a whole. Issues like zero clearance insert ring size and type of routing work being carried out will change the balance of extraction requirements with respect too through the fence verses through the insert ring (below table) extraction.

    Optimal router table extraction actually requires a rethink of the router plate and insert ring design, and possibly the type of router used. However, since most of us use a plunge router I am in the process of building a table and router mount / plate to accomplish this. I started out by building a table with a low cost insert plate and making what is considered a standard router top and fence, I felt it was the only way to work out exactly what I really needed and then work through the pros and cons of such a system.

    I've made the router table and dust cabinet as I described above and I've been hacking the test router top and fence testing various extraction ideas along with fence design and adjusting methods. There are so many posts of people building router tables that I felt it would be of no interest to anyone if I added yet another thread on this. However I was planning to post a few pictures and findings / thoughts in the dust extraction forum, I could post a few pictures of the updated dust cabinet and air guide plate in a thread if anyone is interested. BTW Merry Xmas to all.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Sounds like I had similar ideas quite some time ago.

    Router table for Incra LS

  14. #13
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    Feb 2016
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    There is nothing fancy about this setup. Its simply a box attached to the underside with a 100mm hose plugged in the side.

    The extra holes were drilled to reduce heat and increase scavenging by creating a swirling action. Heat when first made was a problem as the air flow was low (even with the biggest locking ring). The holes are not scientific!... I kept drilling until the internal action seemed right.

    If I were to do it again, Id use thicker MDF to reduce the noise, put the collection pipe at the rear, add a new 50mm pipe to the rear to add to the WonderFence and place only two or three larger holes in various places (probably in the very bottom corner of each side). When using the WonderFence a bit of crud builds in the extrusions, but it's quite minor and never a real problem (obviously fixed if the 50mm pipe were added!)

    My setup is very basic, but it sure does get used a lot.

    The hassles I've had with the router so far are minor....

    -- the chromed lifter pipes need the odd oiling every few months
    -- the winder likes to get a bit sticky and get jammed periodically
    -- some dust accumulated in the (empty=springless) spring lifter spring cap (cap since completely removed)
    -- dust in the switching compartment (since blocked with tape and the plastic "safety" cover removed)

    Mostly I just lift the router out (plate and all) and give it a blast of compressed air to flush it out... into the running DC pipe of course!!!

    Overall I'm pretty happy with it, but will soon be replaced with a more accurate Incra lifter and a 240v motor from Gregories Machinery

    router table 6 (1024x685).jpg router table 4 (1024x685).jpg router table 2 (1024x768).jpg router table 5 (1024x685).jpg

  15. #14
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    Nov 2013
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    Sounds like I had similar ideas quite some time ago.

    Router table for Incra LS
    Firstly, I just can't go past not complementing you on that beautiful cabinet and the craftsmanship and thought you must have put into it.

    Your dust pickup modification is certainly a big improvement over the original design.

    I tested my triton using its base plate extraction and the triton setup does works very well, however I decided to built my cabinet initially in a simple fashion so that parts could be removed and modified as needed, my primary goal (due to sinus sensitivity to all sawdust) was / is dust extraction (above and below table) first, safety features second and the rest a distant third, so I soon realised I would have to make a big change in design for through table extraction.

    I also noticed you got asked about not placing the port at the bottom

    I'm running a 150mm extraction port and 3HP extractor, the one thing that the past few years of testing has absolutely proven to me is this : 3HP and 150mm ducting is in reality the minimum requirement for any real (health wise) dust extraction for most machines. Thanks again for the link to your post and the great pictures - so many pictures are missing from the older threads now - it's a real shame.

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MandJ View Post
    I could post a few pictures of the updated dust cabinet and air guide plate in a thread if anyone is interested
    Yes, I'm very interested.

    I haven't completely sorted out dust collection on my router table yet. I have made the traditional port on the fence using my DC and a 4" hose but inside the cabinet I keep changing my mind. One person suggested an angled floor of the router chamber and a hose connected to the lower end where most of the inside dust would accumulate or using the dust port of the triton, just below the collet as you have suggested and also connecting this hose to my DC using a "Y" type adapter. I'm certainly not comfortable with the incra cleansweep type cabinet particularly when you read all the warnings about using it.

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