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Thread: Insert plates in Router Table
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9th July 2011, 03:48 AM #1Intermediate Member
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Insert plates in Router Table
I noticed that Roger Gifkin doesn't use a router plate insert in his router table. I have a router table and it seems like it is never perfectly level. It is a little frustrating.
Is one really necessary?
Does anyone have experience with the Gifkins router table which is made out of phenolic?
Thanks
SB
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9th July 2011 03:48 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th July 2011, 05:22 PM #2
I suspect that its a function of what you do and how you do it.
As an example, the guys at Router Workshop use big Hitachi routers mounted to big baseplate/inserts and simply pull the whole assembly out of the table to change bits, then drop it back into it's recess. Works well for them.
For someone using a Gifkins jig to make boxes with a single size dovetail or box joint, rigid mounting might be more suitable, not a lot of bit changing or height setting to worry about, particularly for those who run a table with dual routers to eliminate bit changes.
Early router tables were often a benchtop sink cutout (thick chipboard with laminate skin) with a clearance hole for the bit and a router screwed underneath with self tappers.
Look at the Kreg website for info on their system. They use a thick insert and adjustable corner supports to level the inser into the table. The corner supports screw to the underside of the table and have a pair of allen screws that wind up from below to form an adjustable base for the insert. Once leveled the insert is screwed down from the top with countersink screws. The corner supports are fairly cheap to buy on their own and could help solve the problem with your insert.
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10th July 2011, 06:57 PM #3
Personally, I hate the average "home handyman router table" inserts and prefer not to use them.
If routing long strips of timber, I'll simply cut a thin strip of ply slightly wider than the strips I'm routing and clamp it to the fence to slide my timber along. Then either raise the router (if plunge cut bit) or slide the fence (if bearing'd bit) and let the bit turn the strip into a perfect insert alternative. No need to worry about "flushness."
If routing a large(ish) piece with enough contact area with the table, then an insert's usually not required either.
It's only if the piece is thin enough to deflect or small enough that it can "fall into" the hole that I'll use one. (And even then I prefer to make a "sacrificial table top" something like the first strip I mentioned rather than eff about with inserts! )
- Andy Mc
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11th July 2011, 02:07 AM #4Intermediate Member
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Gifkins uses a Phenolic Resin for his router table top. Does anyone now if this is available in the US?
Thanks
SB
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11th July 2011, 04:35 PM #5
Try woodpeckers
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11th July 2011, 09:14 PM #6
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