Thread: Inspired!!!

Looks intriguing! Thats worth 4000 words, but Ive missed something important in all those words. What does it do? What can it be used for? Do I need one?
Yachtie

I was just thinking the same thing.

SB

The description must have been very cryptic, because I'm not sure you deciphered it perfectly. This doesn't fit my understanding of pin routing, although I suppose it could be useful for something; possibly overhead routing of tiny workpieces, but reference to a pattern is a mystery.

I find no "davecam48" in the member list. Typo? Can you post a link to the thread in question?

Cheers,
Joe

Thanks for the comments, first of all.

This is the thread that got me to thinking about the process Go Here

The white pattern is the same as the overhead winder ring. It is guided by the pin shown in the photo (not very clear) circled in red. It is useful if you have a number of pieces the same to do. You would have a 1/4 inch straight bit in the router, directly over the same sized pin so the patterns are 1:1 scale..

Maybe pin router is the wrong terminology to use. I don't know what else to call it.

Have you tried hot glue or double sided tape, to hold the pattern? The jig looks good, so does Dave's

Goldmember,
Thanks I know now that I dont need one urgently. Just didn't want to miss out. John

Oh. THAT pin. Got it. I don't know why I didn't find davecam48 in the Member List yesterday, but it's there today.

I've found hot-melt glue superior to double-face tape for temporary attachment. The adhesive in the double-face tape is very resistant to removal, whereas the hot-melt glue can be scraped off. YMMV.

Regarding the pin router, I think it's somewhat simpler, and more versatile, to have the pin above, and use the router below in the table. There's a plan for a T-square type support in Bill Hylton's "Woodworking with the Router," ISBN 0-87596-577-6 (hardcover), 0-87596-751-5 (paperback). A bridge spanning opposite corners of the table could also be useful. Several years ago, I made a T-square type overarm, hinged along one edge for ease of placement. I've moved a few times since then, and I don't know where it is.

The slot for the tracer needs to be only the tool path, not the entire opening. For close-in work, where the final cuts could overlap, a pin and slot as small as 1/8" (made with a veining bit) can suffice.

To match the cuts on both sides, you need at least two registration holes, as you've provided. Otherwise, the cuts won't match. If the registration holes would be offensive to the design, place them in waste material to be removed at the last step.

Cheers,
Joe