Thread: Problem installing router lift in TS extension

Hi there. Unfortunately I don’t have an answer for you but I might be in the same boat. I was just wondering what table saw do you have? And if you have discovered a fix yourself? Thanks.


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I have the Harvey HW110LGE-30. With their extension table. Very happy with the TS, the Incra lift is now sitting in place, waiting for me to finish the install.
The phenolic material on the extension was a real pain to rout as discussed, but the “many shallow passes” method eventually won the day. However, these findings are what you might want to know.
A...the depth of the router channel in the table top, was around 9.5mm for the base to sit flush with the work surface, the table top is about 12mm as it turned out and that only leave 2.5 odd to secure it to. The phenolic material is as I mentioned really strong, so that may work out, though thicker would be better.
B...Securing the base to the table is meant to be done using the supplied Allen key insert head screws, which go in from the top and thread their way into “female” threads below, so you can adjust the heights for a very flush mount. Because I don’t have the depth under the base, I think I am going to have to get some cask head screws and come up from underneath and pick up the threads overhead in the base. I’d rather the intended setup.
C...If I cant get this to come together properly, I will make a new thicker extension table and do the whole install again, but I think I can get this to work, so I’ll persevere for now.
D...Once it is setup, I want to add an extra on off safety switch for the router, some channel and a purpose built router fence with a dust extraction port built in.
That’s where I’m at with it.

Okay, it’s in!
I had it wrong regards securing the base. It’s not a matter of screwing it down. There is a cam screw that goes in on one corner of the base and once turned the “fat side” of the cam screw head pushes hard into the corner, holding the whole base tight. Meaning that the height adjustment screws are just there to make that base flush with the table edge. We’re you to need to remove the base quickly, just turn said cam screw a half turn anti clockwise and out it comes. Let’s you clean the router etc.
so, a good router template, flush trim router bit, used slowly, with shallow passes into the phenolic will work okay��
I still wish they’d used something else, but it’s tough. Maybe even same phenolic material, but thicker, say 3/4” so there is more supporting the base.
One tip....because there was a lot of resistance to the (brand new) router bit cutting this heavy duty phenolic, the grub screw in the collet that sits above the bearing, holding it down in place, worked loose and allowed the bearing to ride up over the edge of the template. Might have been because it wasn’t put in with loctite, but I suspect it was vibration. Anyway, as protection against that, I wrapped some half inch masking tape around the shaft a couple of times and that worked great..