Thread: Lock Mitre Bits

We did a session with those at The Triton Woodworkers Club last year. You can use them for 90 degree or straight joints. To do the straight joints, just invert the second piece and make the same cut. For corners, you have to make the second cut at 90 degrees. They are critical in the setup so you have to make sure the height and depth are correct. Try on some scrap and you'll get the idea.

This may help:
http://www.oldham-usa.com/Products/B...iterJoints.htm

If you need any more, I can hunt out the March 2004 issue of our newsletter for you. (It's not on our site anymore)

Thanks Gumby, I'll have a bit of a go, & I'll check out the site you gave me tonight. If I need any more info, I'll hunt you down & see if you can find that news letter.


steve

Steve,

if you can get hold of the CMT catalogue, there is an explanation of how to set up the lock mitre bit. However, an even better explanation is to be found the the book - Router Joinery Workshop by Carol Reed. She give a very good detailed explanation of setting up this bit in the router table.
Regards
Les

Thanks Les, I appreciate the info.

I fitted my Triton Router to my table today, but unfortunatly, due to re-carpeting, our house was in my shed, so I still haven't turned the damn thing on. Maybe tomorrow. I have managed to get my hands on a printout that Timbecon have on the setup for lock mitre bits & so I will have a bit of a crack at it, first chance I get.

I have read the link that Gumby sent me & I think that may help as well, but as I said, I appreciate your help & I now have another avenue to try if I need to. Eitter way, That sound like a handy book & I think I will try to get my hands on it if I can.

steve

Here is another link for you to check out for lock mitre intructions

http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/guides/lockmitre/index.php

Thanks Sprog,

That site was great. easy to understand, looks simple. I think the Lock Mitre bit will be very handy once I learn how to use it. Still haven't try it, School holidays. Water slides, play grounds etc., as well as an ongoing project that does not require the L/M bit, but I will get to it soon.

I printed off that page , thanks again mate

steve

Ticky
Thank you for asking the question on Lock Mitre Bits.
I have been suffering the same situation as you but not game to show my ignorance.
Also thanks to those who have responded to Ticky's request for your replies have been of great value to me.
As with Ticky I too, are in the process of getting the gear set up for a serious go at these joints.
Presently awaiting a Router Extension Wing and have noted references to safety in these forums, I hope for finger sake can refrain from having a go till it shows up.
Regards
Dick.

Dick,
just some serious advice regarding router safety. If you are not confident that you can safely make the cut or whatever else with the router, please come back to the forum and ask for advice. A beginners router course will also provide good safety lessons as well as the book I mentioned further up "Router Joinery Workshop by Carol Reed" provides some good advice about safety. Remember, at the speed that the router bit swings around it does NOT cut the finger off for re-attachment - IT MASHES THE FINGER(S) to a pulp. (aaaarrrhhh!!!!!!!)
Happy Safe routing
Les

Les,

Good call on the safety issue. My aim is to be able to count to 10 at the end of every day.

Originally Posted by Tamarit

I have been suffering the same situation as you but not game to show my ignorance.

G'day Dick,

Don't be afraid to ask these guys any question at all. I doubt that anybody will laugh at you & if they do, you won't hear them. This is only one of a few threads that I have received help on.

As Les has already said, SAFETY FIRST. There is a safe way to do all jobs, & somebody on this forum will likley know what it is.

As for the lock mitre joint, I had a bit of a play yesterday. I still don't have it quite right, but I am within about a mm. I think if I drop it 1/2mm I will be in the ball park. I'll post a couple of pics soon.

ticky

Originally Posted by Ticky

As for the lock mitre joint, I had a bit of a play yesterday. I still don't have it quite right, but I am within about a mm. I think if I drop it 1/2mm I will be in the ball park. I'll post a couple of pics soon.

ticky

That sounds right. They are very handy bits but as i said earlier, very critical in the setup. The height must be exact and the fence setting also exact. Once you get it right Ticky, cut a piece of scrap pine with it and make a template. Put it away until next time and it will make the resetting much quicker.

Originally Posted by Gumby

cut a piece of scrap pine with it and make a template. Put it away until next time and it will make the resetting much quicker.

Gumby, hi.

Thanks for the tip. I was going to try that, but I was not sure it would work. I have found in the past, what seems easy to understand & logical rearly ever is. Take women for example.

I have had another look at my test pieces today, & I think that while it is still set a fraction too high, the fence may need to go back 1/2 to 3/4 of a mill
here are a couple of pics.

steve

Originally Posted by Ticky

here are a couple of pics.

I did a double take there Ticky...looked at your second pic first and thought " Is this guy routing granite?"

Then looked at the first pic. Oops . Quite a creative effect .

Jeff.

Originally Posted by Swagman

I did a double take there Ticky...looked at your second pic first and thought " Is this guy routing granite?"

Then looked at the first pic. Oops . Quite a creative effect .

Jeff.

Jeff,
I thought it would make the joint stand out a little better, but I don't think I needed to. The camera takes better pis than the bloke pulling the trigger

steve