Thread: Lock Mitre Joint

Would another option here be to have a double walled box with insulation between the layers, 25mm or 50mm styrofoam come to mind - readily obtainable too? You know like having them live in an Esky?

He has now ordered his lock mitre bit. He currently has a Makita Router rp2301fc to power it. Is there a bigger unit out there that he could purchase? It has to have variable speed.

http://www.makita.com.au/products/po...-plunge-router

Thought you guys, who contributed to this thread, might like to see the lock mitre joint he has done. He only got his cutter from the UK last week and has made a jig so he can push the four sides through at once.

The thermal regulation of the hive is important thus the thickness of timber is a major consideration as is timber species (something not too dense) my primary hive are in a Silky Oak log/stump, the resins/wax brew that the bees make their hive from will melt if it gets too hot and they don't like it when it gets too cold either <18 and they stay inside the hive.

I made my boxes from about 35 thick pine, with a simple halved butt join at the corners glued, nailed and painted, no probs with the joinery so far, they have a roof with a bit of styrene foam for overhead insulation and in high summer they are in the shade.

With the box in the pic to my eye that toungue looks too small for that thickness not too mention that a mitre join in a box that is outside might not be the best selection of join and to go to the effort of doing a mitre lock join is pretty much overkill IMO.

The double wall idea will certainly be insulative and as Chris suggests if it can be ventillated will provide cooling, the same system can also be used to warm the hive in winter.

Pete