Thread: Makita RP2301FC, Unilift and Wixey Height Gauge.

Hi there, have only used the Makita rp2301fc above table as yet, it is very very good. However, I only have past experience of much cheaper routers so I am only giving my opinion of my experience with the unit, not a comparison with others of similar caliber....

Sorry forgot to mention the awesome guide bush insert mech.....no screws just lift a lever and insert bush and its done,....solid...good to go....very handy indeed 3 seconds....have just done 300+ dado's approc 12 inches long, 26mm wide and 18mm deep in solid french Oak .......ripped thru the lot in no time without the slightest issue....got the jig boxed off and went for it.......serious bit of kit indeed.....If I was able, I would say get it and if it isnt way good, I will give you your money back, cos I know I'm on a sure bet.....happy banging...

Thanks for your comments Theoakdude.

Yesterday I was able to physically inspect a RP2301FC for the first time. I'm convinced it is a very good router and would be a good choice for me.

My purchase of the RP2301FC will however depend upon my ability to source an updated mounting plate for my 'old' (2008) but unused UniLift. I have spoken with Grahame of Professional Woodworker Supplies who, very helpfully, will try to source an updated plate for me from his US supplier.

Step by step by step - getting there!

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

Surely, for the Unilift to be efficient, the router must be fitted into it at its maximum plunge depth. If that's the case, then the collet would not appear above the table enough for bit-changing, given the 8mm Unilift base thickness.

If the router is plunged far enough to engage the spindle lock, the power would need to be off at the router switch, because it will not plunge that far without doing so. Then the router would need raising within the lift which - in my mind - negates the purpose of the lift.

As you state, just an opinion.

Ray

G'day Ray, I've been away for two weeks holiday, so thus the delay in this reply.

With regards to the first point. Not at all, the collet still reaches above the table for bit changing.

To the second point you are right. But for the benefit of super fine adjustment of height with the UniLIFT and hold it, it's only 2 seconds extra.

Hi all

Interesting discussion, however the following should be noted

1. There isn't a decent 240volt 50Hz Fixed Base Router available in Australia.
2. The UniLIFT was designed as a lift for a Plunge Router not a fixed base.
3. The Makita RP2301FC is a great router highly suited to table (inverted) work.
4. The only problems we've ever experienced with the Wixey Read-Out has been with Tritons which seem to have poor electromagnetic shielding.

This is a bit like the Holden vs. Ford debate, I guess it will go on forever.

Regards

Grahame

Originally Posted by Gwhat

1. The UniLIFT was designed as a lift for a Plunge Router not a fixed base.

That's odd, bearing in mind the middle box on the right (from the manufacturer's website):



Ray

Ray

The UniLIFT was designed for Plunge Routers, it will take Fixed Base Routers but there are better lifts for these.

Your oposition to the UniLIFT is noted, however, lots of woodworkers are lamenting the fact it is no longer made.

Regards

Grahame

Originally Posted by Gwhat

Your oposition to the UniLIFT is noted …

I have never, do not and will never have any opposition to the Unilift, but - as stated in previous posts in this thread - I can see no point in using it with a TRA router, because of the built-in lifting capability of the router.

Ray

G'day Ray

I think the argument for using the UniLIFT with the TRA is to get more precision in the lifting. I purchased my TRA001 about a year ago, and it definitely has "jumps" in the depth adjusters (coarse and fine). This can be a real pain in the neck because you have to wind it back and start again with the depth adjustment. It's a gravity effect that takes hold, so that in table mode, when you are retracting the bit into the router to lower the height, it will suddenly jump 2mm, which is of course FAR more than you want.

It may be that in yours (sounds like you've had it for a while) this adjustment is more precise. In mine, it's a bit like my hideous 3rd Millennium Stanley #5 with 3.5 revs of backlash - you only get one go at getting the right blade depth because it can't be effectively retracted.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

I purchased my TRA001 about a year ago, and it definitely has "jumps" in the depth adjusters (coarse and fine).

The reason for the "jumps" you experienced was damage in the worm gear of the winding mechanism. The inherent cause of this was the use of a dense plastic worm with a metal cog, which was originally designed as a shear point for the mechanism.

Many owners failed to spend the <10 seconds removing the plunge spring before table use, which greatly increased the load on the worm and lead to damage to the lands of the worm gear. Another major cause was winding the mechanism after forgetting to release the manual plunge lock lever (although either may not have been the case with your damage).

Once damaged, the lifting mechanism is permanently compromised, the only cure being a replacement of the worm gear. I described this process fully (with pictures) in this page I wrote a while ago.

Since then a metal alloy replacement worm has been available and I have fitted one to both my TRA and MOF models (SKU 769869 for the TRA and SKU 723874 for the MOF001).

HTH

Ray

I see. I definitely removed the spring before it went in the table, but it is entirely possible that I adjusted the height without releasing the lock.

Just had a look at your page there - obviously for the truly skilled, which would not include moi.

Would that new metal replacement part have been standard issue from >1 year ago? If so, mine should probably have it - which may put me back to square 1 with the jumping issue. I purchased mine at a goodly discount, which may have meant it was old stock - pre-metal part inclusion.

It's so easy to tell - unscrew the cross-head screw that holds the fine adjuster knob in position, lift it off and have a look at what's underneath. If it's white, it's plastic, if it's shiny it's alloy. I doubt that any are made with alloy shafts, they're just available as a (much better) replacement.

BTW, many on here have successfully followed the dismantling instructions without any problem, in spite of thinking it was a daunting task before they started. It's only screws and a circlip, after all.

Ray