Thread: Planning Jig

Photo 2

Photo 3.

This is the first carriage I made. It has bearing rollers, and the timber cross slides hold the perspex base. It also had guide blocks on the out side, to prevent the bit from hitting the rails.
It also featured a small dust shields inboard of the rollers to try and keep saw dust off the rails (but it didn't work).
The rollers kept on getting a build up of sawdust on the surface.
The other problem, it limited the depth of cut because of it's height.

Photo 4.

The roller carriage and router sitting on the jig.

Photo 5.

This is the Carriage I ended up using. (After spending a few hours making the other one).

Photo 6.

To allow the carriage more travel at each end I made these clamps. They are the same as Toolmakers clamps.

Well, there ya go.
I hope that helps. Its a bit agricultural, but surprising accurate.
The one thing I couldn't work out was some kind of dust extractor. It makes a huge mess.
The jig can be made any size you like.
The boards, are bolted (into threaded holes) on the bottom of the rails. To machine thicker timber or the edges, simply use long bolts and spacer blocks.

Glen

G'Day Glen,
What Diameter Routing bit do you use
when "planing" the timber flat?
I guess the larger the better, within reason.

How effective is it for longer pieces?

Another to add to the "Must do" list.

lvan

For what it is worth their is a surfacing jig at the following URL
Router Surfacing Jig

I'm about to make one myself

Jamie

Ivan,

I just used a 19mm Straight Cutting bit. However, CMT make a Mortising Bit (I think thats the right name) and it's designed to cut flat across the bottom.

Glen