Thread: Need a plate for my new Triton

I use a phenolic plate, like this, my big Triton router has been hanging under this for more than a year and it is still perfectly flat. The other advantage is that it is supplied pre-drilled for the Triton routers, both the small and the big one use the same mounting holes.

Here is a link to my router table WIP.

I have no experience and was unsure if the phenolic plate would do the job or if I would require the aluminum one. Your "router table WIP" will be very handy as well. Appreciate your sharing of knowledge with this router rookie.
Big Help, Big Thanks to Big Shed.

ps. great site

Dusty Ranger

It's probably more likely that your table will sag than the insert. Both the plastic and aluminium ones are typically 3/8" thick and very stiff. If you make your table out of MDF make it thick. Typically 1/2" rebate for the insert is recommended.

The other thing to consider is the rings. Normally insert tables have replacable inserts to reduce clearance between router bits of different diameters. Plastic ones are more likely to flex and possibly give you some accuracy issues on smaller work or other situations, but if a metal insert comes in contact with a bit the potential destruction is great. Some systems are more bother than others to swap rings, and you want the ring to sit dead flat and level with the insert.

They are all good, and there is some difference in price. It's another case of pick your poison.

Some people advocate no insert or ring and just route a rebate in your top. Your are left with 3/8" top material under the base and you cut the rebate to fit your base closley so the base itself stiffens it up, then just as necessary to clear other router protrusions. This system either has excessive cleanance on small bits or does not accomodate larger ones. Cheaper, and your table is flat, no insert/table misalignment.

You have options

Big Shed is right - a phenolic plate is sufficient and a much better way to go than just drilling/rebating the "raw" tabletop for a number of reasons.

You could get the plate (part number RTA320) from the Triton router table and let that into the top, but it's extra work and barely worth the trouble, compared to the relatively simple insertion of a phenolic plate. However, the router will fit right to it with no additional drilling, screws, etc.

Most inserts have a series of concentric rings on the underside to help you to align the router when drilling the four mounting holes - remove the black base-plate from the router and use it as a template for drilling pilots, invert and complete with correct size countersunk holes. You'll need four 1/4" UNC countersunk machine screws, 3/4" long, to mate with the insert.

Don't forget to cut the through hole first, then do the rebate, otherwise the insert will fall right on through!

Ray.

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

phenolic plate is sufficient and a much better way to go

Phenolic plate with removable inserts is good, but not perfect. I've got one in my router table and as someone said earlier in the thread the rings are slightly lower than the table and cause problems with small/short bits of timber. There is no way to adjust them. If I want to be extra-accurate I use a sheet of 3mm craftwood that I use to cover the whole table, including under my fence, then I just raise the router bit up throught he mdf. Works very well until you make the hole bigger then use a smaller bit, but it's cheap and easy to replace - I guess eventually I'll have a few for different size bits.

Cheers,
Adam

I don't know which phenolic plate you have, I have the one from PWS (Woodpeckers), and have absolutely no problem with the insert rings not being level with the plate.

If they weren't I'd be knocking on PWS's door, seeing as I bought this to replace Triton RTA300 router where NOTHING was level with anything.

Sorry Ray, whilst I normally agree with any advice you give, I wouldn't recommend a Triton RTA300 table and or top anyone, friend or foe.

One only has to a search on this forum to hear the numerous sad stories about RTA300 router tables not being flat and or level.

Ray was recommending the small insert plate not the whole top I think.

The RTA300 was a big mistake for triton wasn't it ? The earlier table is much nicer although not perfect.

The fence on the 300 is really nice and fits straight on my Mk3, but the sliding router table is a bit of a mess.

Anyway, there are many good solutions. I've got the incra plate predrilled for triton router (both have the same mounting holes). They do a phenolic and an aluminium version with their metal magnet-retained rings. The rings on mine are absolutely flush and the retaining system is convenient. The aluminium insert won't sag this side of the next ice age...I do question their casting of the incra name and part number into the top as I believe work could snag on that in certain circumstances.

Ray, your welcome to reject direct mount and I understand why, but as always there are people in the world who like it and justify their approach. Different strokes.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

I don't know which phenolic plate you have, I have the one from PWS (Woodpeckers), and have absolutely no problem with the insert rings not being level with the plate.

Made a mistake in my earlier posting - I have an aluminium insert plate in the table (pics below) not the phenolic. And the rings are not level, and yes, I am disappointed in them (and the table, but that's another thread (and a lesson learned)).

Cheers,
Adam

G'day Chumley, are those insert rings aluminium as well? I looked at a similar aluminium plate which had thermoplastic moulded insert rings.
I take it you're not happy with your router table then?

So.... if I got this right, the phenolic plate (1/4" thick) should take the weight of my Triton TRA001 (which is also less $ than the aluminum plate). I need to make sure the inserts fit flush with the plate and phenolic inserts are preferable to plastic as they are stiffer and less prone to sag.
Assuming I build a thick,flat and well supported table, sag should not be an issue down the road.

Option #2 - no plate. Could use the Veritas router table top which uses a clamp system and inserts (plastic?). The top is only 16" X 24" which seems small to me (remember, I have no router experience). It also costs $200. plus tax (cdn). Worst of all, I would miss out on a lot of the building fun that goes into your own table top!
I failed to mention when I started this thread that I predict that the router will be in the table over 90% of the time.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks Gents,

Dusty Ranger

Phenolic insert should be 3/8" thick, nearly all inserts are 3/8.

Get a garantee from your supplier that the rings will be flush and the whole thing flat.

Shop around as prices seem to be all over the place. incrementaltools.com in the us and elitetools in canada as well as ebay etc are worth checking out if your in canada.

http://www.incrementaltools.com/Free..._Tops_s/57.htm

don't know what shipping is but if your spending $200 incra will do you a plate with aluminium insert miter track and rings for that $ and it comes set up. They also have complete router tables with legs. Of course their tables are designed to use their fences, but the little ones is designed as an add on for your table saw and it's still bigger than you mentioned. Unfortunately incra don't ahve their inserts on sale just now. I got mine for $75.

One of the big advantages of an insert is you can just flip the whole assembly out to fix stuff or whatever.

Anyway lots of good choices. I don't think that veritas is your best option.

Here is an ebay auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Incra-Incrementa...QQcmdZViewItem

and the rockler insert

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...router%20table

The plate is a bit of an orphan. It says they no longer offer the large diameter delrin (plastic) insert and it's only 1/4" thick, but bundled with an origional incra fence it would make a nice table, assuming it doesn't go for too much money. I'd expect it to get about $70ish, then you have to factor shipping to Canada. You also need to clear it with the seller before you bid since it's a US only auction.

Originally Posted by damian

Ray was recommending the small insert plate not the whole top I think.

Ray, your welcome to reject direct mount and I understand why, but as always there are people in the world who like it and justify their approach. Different strokes.

I didn't mean to come across as dismissive, Damian, but remember that I am a pom, so it might be built-in!

I can only go from what I've seen and - in the vast majority of cases where direct mounting has been used - the top has either required a collet extension (I don't want to start another debate on those either, but I just won't use one), or it has weakend the top so much that it became a bit risky to use, especially when a large bit was required.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but in the context of this thread - a first-time table and a brand-new user - I suggested an insert plate as the easier, safer and more manageable option.

Anyway, as you rightly say, different strokes ......

Ray.

Do you really need a plate?
I made a table from Roger Gifkins table plans.
Less expensive and does everything you want.
Look it up on the net under Gifkins Router Table.

No worries Ray, just don't like to close options.

artme:
I don't see a point to debating the value of plateless router tables here. I'm sure there must be 100 websites arguing the value of each approach.

If I was in Canada and could buy something like that incra router table for so little money I'd just do that and make building a cabinet under it the project. You might even be able to use your new table on a couple of saw horses to help build your cabinet

I spent 7 hours today turning up a new blade locator for one of my circular saws. I just think there are better things to do on weekends than make tools, like making stuff with tools In a couple of weeks I'll be building a combination saw/router table to go with my new incra fence. I'm doing this because I have to, not because I want to. YMMV.