Thread: Question about edge planing on a table with a split fence...

Hi,
You can use your router table as a jointer, which sounds like what you need. You need to offset the fences to do so, so if yours dont move independantly you will be scuppered.
Cheers

The Kreg fence system uses an ali extrusion, and two laminated MDF subfences on infeed and outfeed sides. As part of the ali extrusion, two sets of channels are formed in the extrusion behind the sub fences, and two lengths of plastic circular extrusion (about 4mm dia) are supplied. By loosening the outfeed subfence, you can insert the plastic extrusion into one set of channels for a 1/32 inch offset, or the other set of channels for 1/16th inch offset.

For other fences, just arrange seperate subfences with the desired offset, or even a full length subfence with a cutout for the bit and a strip of the old style thick laminate glued onto the outfeed side for the offset. Another alternative would be a length of epoxy or phenolic printed circuit material. File a bevel onto the start of the offset section just behind the bit to make sure that the work doesn't grab on the step when it first meets the outfeed subfence.

Aim for a depth of cut or offset of about 1-1.5 mm and use a fairly large diameter (say 3/4 in or 19mm) bit if possible, preferably in 1/2 shank for rigidity. You could reduce depth of cut for 1/4in shank bits, but I would be going for around .5mm max, so you might need a lot of passes to sort your edges.

Originally Posted by malb

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For other fences, just arrange seperate subfences with the desired offset, or even a full length subfence with a cutout for the bit and a strip of the old style thick laminate glued onto the outfeed side for the offset. Another alternative would be a length of epoxy or phenolic printed circuit material. File a bevel onto the start of the offset section just behind the bit to make sure that the work doesn't grab on the step when it first meets the outfeed subfence.

Aim for a depth of cut or offset of about 1-1.5 mm and use a fairly large diameter (say 3/4 in or 19mm) bit if possible, preferably in 1/2 shank for rigidity. You could reduce depth of cut for 1/4in shank bits, but I would be going for around .5mm max, so you might need a lot of passes to sort your edges.

Very helpful malb - esp. the advice about bits and depth of cut.

I intended to use alu. shims between the fence and sub-fence on the out-feed side and had located some suitable stock (1.6mm) but was unsure if it was an appropriate cut depth and will reduce the thickness per your advice as I have 1/4" bits... might have to buy some beer in cans to get some thin ally shims

Thanks for the tips... I'm all ideas and not much experience a.t..m.

Cheers, CJ

I used to do that on my Triton Router Table by stepping the fence,if you then want to do the other edge and make them parallel Triton had a way to do that,can't remember and can't refer to the triton manual as I have sold it,maybe some one with a Triton router table will reply and tell you how,good luck

Originally Posted by CeeJay

I intended to use alu. shims between the fence and sub-fence on the out-feed side and had located some suitable stock (1.6mm) but was unsure if it was an appropriate cut depth and will reduce the thickness per your advice as I have 1/4" bits... might have to buy some beer in cans to get some thin ally shims

Thanks for the tips... I'm all ideas and not much experience a.t..m.

Cheers, CJ

Will the router take 1/2 in shank bits? It might be better medium to long term to drop some $ and get a 1/2in shank bit, if you can drive it. Much more rigid, so less likely to chatter or flex, so there is a lot better chance of getting the edges square to the face.

If you could get an offcut of sheet ali a suitable size to sandwich between the fence and subfence it would be better than a number of smaller pieces as it should give a straighter outfeed face and a straigher result. Otherwise allow at least 24hrs emptying the containers and running the router.