Thread: How To Route This M&T Joint

I've created exactly the joint shown in the second pic. to convert a telephone table into a single drawer table for my mother by removing the seat from the side. The joint was created using a home made mortise jig that attaches to my bench with the bit guided by a 3/4" guide bush. I use this jig to rout 1/8", 1/4", 8mm, 3/8" and 1/2" mortises. Loose tenons were used and the stretcher housed in the leg by exactly the method you propose. Rather than using a roundover bit I use a full round bit guided by the router fence - Half Round Side Cutter Bit Arden Router Bit 1/4*1/4 1/4" Shank Arden A0607014-in Milling Cutter from Tools on AliExpress - 11.11_Double 11_Singles' Day If you use a bearing guided roundover bit once you've done one side there's nothing for the bearing to ride on.

There are plenty of router mortise jig build details on the net and some members here have built some very good ones, Lappa and tccp123 come immediately to mind.

The table was only Rubberwood, but it did turn out very nicely.

You mean, like this ... ?










The mortices were first cut in the blanks ..





.. and then turned ..





The tenons were fitted into the mortice ...





... and marked out:





.. before being rebated (is that the correct term here?) for the shoulder ...






Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by aldav

... If you use a bearing guided roundover bit once you've done one side there's nothing for the bearing to ride on...

That's what the fence is for.

If you use a full round over bit any slight irregularity or dust on either the work piece, fence or table can translate into an upward movement that results in gouging of the finished surface, as the upper face is trapped inside the cutter. This can also occur by any slight upward pressure from feeding (don't ask how I know all this )

IMHO you will get a way better result, with less stress, using a normal roundover bit guided by the fence.

"Originally posted by Aldav."
If you use a bearing guided roundover bit once you've done one side there's nothing for the bearing to ride on.

Originally Posted by RossM

That's what the fence is for.
.......
IMHO you will get a way better result, with less stress, using a normal roundover bit guided by the fence.

A little trick:

If you set the roundover bit about 0.5 mm low, then it will leave a flat top on the moulding 1 mm wide. That is sufficient bearing surface for the second pass on the router.

Two strokes with sandpaper and no one will ever know.



Cheers

Graeme