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Thread: first router

  1. #16
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    Sep 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knurl View Post
    I find one of the most anoying features of my routers is the fact that the power cables come out the top of the motor housing, so when you flip it over to examine/measure the depth of a bit, the housing won't sit flat on the bench-top.
    If you want to measure the depth of a bit you dont have to turn the router over. Zero it on a flat surface and set the depth guage to the desired height over the turret and plunge to that depth. You dont have to balance the router on its top, you dont have to worry about the gap between the bit and the base or any collars you have fitted.
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  3. #17
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    Nov 2007
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    Mt Crosby, Brisbane
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    Hm. If you must stick within $150 get a 1/2", try for a second hand makita or hitachi, if you must buy new I'd probably go the maktec or maybe look at the trade tools direct one. It's a house brand but they are usually pretty careful what they stock. They do mail order.

    http://www.tradetools.com.au/

    Thing with maktec you'll be able to get parts for it later. Makita parts are pretty reasonable on price and availability.

    With profiling you can often get cheap bits that are the same shape as good bits. If you do a pass short of your final cut, removing most of the stock your quality bits will last a LOT longer. Yeah accessories are nice but you can buy or make tham as you need them. Carbatec's universal sub base isn't unreasonable then you can mount a host of std stuff off it.

    Not all cheap routers are hopeless, but it's a lucky dip and parts down the road could be a problem.

    Check ebay for second hand...and new for that matter...
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  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Queensland
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knurl View Post
    I find one of the most anoying features of my routers is the fact that the power cables come out the top of the motor housing, so when you flip it over to examine/measure the depth of a bit, the housing won't sit flat on the bench-top.
    Appreciate your comment exactly - I must be a slow learner but finally I solved the problem with the following - if I had been a little smarter I would have done it years ago.

    www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=68701

    By the way the TR12 is an excellent router - not just because I have one but because they are built like the proverbial double brick outhouse - just suits my style.

    Regards,
    Bob

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
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    Likewise I'm just starting, looking for a plunge router. Not sure what I'd use it for - rounding over, some dovetail joints, cutting groves. I assume I'll soon wonder how I lived without it.

    Being in rural Western Australia, second-hand isn't an option as gear comes up so rarely. I'm thinking I'd start small, and if neccessary get a router table later. Having read around a bit it seems the things to consider are:
    1/4 or 1/2", 1/2 gives you flexibility
    power
    adjustible speed
    weight/handling

    I was going to steer the middle route and get a Makita 3612 (~$350), which no-one has a bad word to say about, except that they'd buy the 3612c for the adjustable speed. Is that really an issue, how much work do peole do with large/slow bits ? At $600 it's over budget for begining.
    The Triton TRA001 $365 seemed like a good option, as it's got adjustible speed. But some say it's too heavy or top-heavy (though its almost the same weight as the 3612).

    So then I thought get a smaller router, eg Bosch POF1200AE $120 1/4". I could get started on that, and if neccessary get the Triton later and mount it under a table. Though I'd have to start with 1/4" bits (and btw, what's a good starter set?).

    Any thoughts ?

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