Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 29 of 29
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Gippsland Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    50

    Default Router bits

    In 40 years of using router bits, one thing I learnt years ago was that you only get what you pay for. The quality of the actual carbide is what matters more than anything. Just do the sums, if its cheap so is the carbide.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    89

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kph View Post
    The quality of the actual carbide is what matters more than anything.
    This is the most important certainly when you are looking for better finish cuts - also the grade of tooling steel used for the body of the bits.

    In terms of what's bad - the combination of large grain low grade carbide and cheaper tooling steel equals cheap & crappy router bits. The grade of carbide used in many tools is hit and miss and most don't even mention what the carbide grade used is and most people don't appreciate what the differences between the grades are and there uses, the fact is most carbide used for routers bits is primarily for soft woods rather than hard woods.

    For Chinese manufacturers they will produce both the cheap & nasty as well as the exceptional - it all depends on what is requested of them - personally I specify all the grades of metals in the bits I have produced and have had nothing but excellent quality tools.

    I will say that knowing the manufacturing prices and the price I sell custom designed/produced bits for - the prices of bog standard bits in Oz is ridiculous!

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wol View Post
    I might get the missing 3/8 collet and some 3/8 shank bits but they are an odd size.
    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    I wouldn't bother with the 3/8, I don't think there's anything in 3/8 that doesn't come in 1/4 or 1/2.
    About the only bit that might be useful in a 3/8 shank that I can think of would be a 3/8 compression bit. These combine an up spiral bit at the tip and a down spiral at the shank and are used for cutting sheets with laminate both sides such as melamine, or veneered sheets. Commonly used with commercial CNC machines for cutting kitchens etc. The opposing spirals ensure that the cutting thrust is toward the board core from either face so the core supports the surface to minimise chipping.

    They are available in both 1/4in and 1/2in sizes as well, but for cutting, 1/4in bits generally have poor chip clearance and 1/2in waste a lot of precious material, so the 3/8in is a real sweet spot for these bits. Being solid carbide, the shank is usually the same nominal size as the bit to eliminate a lot of grinding and waste.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    Part of the problem for we users of hand held routers with 1/2" collets, particularly when it comes to solid carbide bits, is that these bits are much more readily available in metric sizes. When I say 'much more readily available' read cheaper. There are two reasons for this, most of these bits are used in CNC machines that have metric collet sets and because the cutting diameter of the bits is the same as the shank. It costs virtually the same amount to have a 5/16" 1/2" shanked bit made as it does a 1/2" bit. To have that 5/16" bit made with a half inch shank doubles the cost compared to having it made with a 8mm shank!

    If you want to use solid carbide metric bits in your router you either have to buy an ER collet adaptor AND a set of collets OR buy 1/2" plain collet adaptors to accommodate the sizes you want to use, be it 4mm, 6mm, 8mm or 10mm. The one disadvantage of using ER collets, apart from the initial cost, is that the adaptor will be at least 50mm long, which could prove inconvenient in certain situations. The big payoff of using either of these options is that the router bits are much cheaper because the manufacturer hasn't had to machine down a 1/2" rod of solid carbide to end up with a bit that only cuts 4 or 6mm diameter.

    Cheers,
    David

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    98

    Default

    Just to update all this, I ended up getting a bunch of Torquata bits for one off projects. They worked fine in the Little Makita. I put a Triton in a router table, and again, for limited use they have been good in that. One bit failed letting the carbide be free but no harm done and replaced without quibble. A few larger bits I have needed I bought CMT or Freud, especially for flattening wood with a router. I felt safer that way.

    regards all.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Mackay
    Age
    41
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Without starting another thread, I'll post in this one.

    As a newbie to routing and woodwork in general I have found a lot of very interesting advice on here about brands and quality and so forth. I think it would be safe to say that most reputable brand bits are ok to use for a DIY level and if your willing to spend that bit extra and the higher quality bits that they will last a long time.

    However, what would be the most recommended bits to get as a starter?

    I managed to pick up a GMC MAG2050R 1/2" 2050W router in very excellent condition (barely used from new as it was too big for him and just sitting in its box) but I have no bits. I was thinking of getting a few cheaper bunnings bits like a straight bit 10mm with 1/2" shank and a flush trim bit and maybe a chamfer bit to start with. But any recommendations on which would be a good starting place would be handy.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,622

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wol View Post
    One bit failed letting the carbide be free…
    Seriously? The carbide separated from the steel shank?

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    828

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nortilus View Post
    Without starting another thread, I'll post in this one.

    As a newbie to routing and woodwork in general I have found a lot of very interesting advice on here about brands and quality and so forth. I think it would be safe to say that most reputable brand bits are ok to use for a DIY level and if your willing to spend that bit extra and the higher quality bits that they will last a long time.

    However, what would be the most recommended bits to get as a starter?

    I managed to pick up a GMC MAG2050R 1/2" 2050W router in very excellent condition (barely used from new as it was too big for him and just sitting in its box) but I have no bits. I was thinking of getting a few cheaper bunnings bits like a straight bit 10mm with 1/2" shank and a flush trim bit and maybe a chamfer bit to start with. But any recommendations on which would be a good starting place would be handy.
    If you've read through this thread you'll notice one very noticeable trend. You get what you pay for. Now, if you want to just dabble or need a bit to "get the job done" there's nothing wrong with buying cheap bits from Bunnings. They'll do the job and a set won't break the bank. However, don't think that they'll last. Think of them more as disposable items rather than reusable. I won't bother putting a "number of uses" on them, but will illustrate with a story. I started off with a cheap set of Ultra bits from Bunnings. Costed around $100, did a few jobs with a couple of the bits, that seemed to work fine. One day did a round over heard a bang. Upon inspection the guide bearing shattered resulting in massive tearout. Almost ruining the project. No one was hurt, but id imagine a flying bearing hitting someone isn't fun.

    So long story short, yes you can get the cheaper bits, they'll do the job. But if you do bit of planning ie know what you plan on using and buy only what you need. You'll get better quality bits that will probably last a lifetime with bit of care.

    If you're after a recomondation, Carb-i-tool or CMT are my general go to these days. For bits i don't plan on using very much anything sold by Timbecon/Carbatec will also fit the bill.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    I wouldn't buy router bits from Bunnings for any purpose. The quality that they sell is unsuitable for even a single use if you want a quality finish. Pay attention to the post above by sje-tools. He and I have both dealt with/currently deal with router bit manufacturers in China. If you pay peanuts you get rubbish. Bunnings is not a supplier of quality tools and probably never will be, it's one area where Masters left them for dead, as for wharehouse prices.

    Yes, the 'h' is in warehouse for a reason. Just my 2c.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Western Australia
    Age
    77
    Posts
    3,679

    Default

    Agree with whats been said ,buy local like Carbi-tool or import good german quality Freud has a good name in tooling.
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Mackay
    Age
    41
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I "bit" the bullet so to speak (sorry for the pun) and bought a straight bit and a round over bit, Freud Brand as they are on sale at Timbecon.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    98

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Seriously? The carbide separated from the steel shank?
    Indeed! There was no obvious reason, a modest piece of 19x42 pine as I recall for some test cuts for what I cannot remember. The carbide just disintegrated causing an immediate vibration, so I released the power switch and investigated. One of the two carbide flutes had disintegrated or fled, and gone where I am not sure. I was wearing safety goggles, but even so it was slightly disconcerting. I vaguely recall finding some pieces later.


  14. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    89

    Default

    Just to drag this old-ish thread up, I am just about to take photos of my new range of trim bits which will be in the website. Since I started out selling tools with a lean towards guitar building (Luthiers), I am continue that trend by adding some high quality down-shear pattern and trim bits to the product range. These bits are produced by the same manufacturer I use for all my other router bits, who are a Taiwanese manufacturer specialising in router bits.

    They should be up tonight or tomorrow if anyone is in the market for trim and pattern bits!

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    89

    Default

    Christmas 2022 prize draw # 136

    You can win a set of the bits

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Quality (non-woodwork) hand tools at very good prices (pretty big range)
    By FenceFurniture in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 21st May 2015, 12:05 AM
  2. Quality hand tools at very good prices (pretty big range)
    By FenceFurniture in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 20th May 2015, 09:07 PM
  3. The Incra Router Fence Range
    By Gwhat in forum INCRA JIGS
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 30th December 2005, 12:03 PM
  4. Router Raizer added to range
    By Gwhat in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 6th November 2005, 09:15 PM
  5. Router Lifts added to range
    By Gwhat in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11th January 2005, 04:33 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •