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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    8

    Default Which Router should i fix to the table?

    I will apologize up front if this sounds like a really stupid question.....but I genuinely am not sure about it all.
    I have a variable speed 1200W GMC plunge router and have (in the past) fixed it underneath my router table that I built. The main issue i had was trying to adjust the height of the router bit as it was not a smooth operation. It was very hard to adjust it to the precise height that I needed it to be,
    In saying all that, would it be better for me to buy a Trim router and mount it underneath my router bench? Would it be easier to get more accurate measurements?
    And in saying all that.........do woodworkers usually mount Trim routers underneath the router table?...or do you use the Plunge routers?
    Thank you.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    1,016

    Default

    Tritons are popular because they're easy to adjust above the table. I don't have one, but there have been comments about accuracy/finesse of the adjustment.

    The other option is to buy a decent router lift - like the Jessem or Incra. Router lift test INCRA Mast-R-lift II VS Triton router - YouTube has a comparison of the triton way vs incra.

    No reason you can't put a trim router under the table, if it's gong to be powerful enough to do the work you need it to. It's still going to be a fiddle to adjust without a good lift because you're going to be reaching under the table. Personally, I'd go for a fixed rather than plunge if you aren't using a lift. If using a lift - whatever works in that lift.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,681

    Default

    Here are a couple of different options for adjusting the height that might be food for thought.
    Lab stand
    Scissor Jack
    Dallas

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,427

    Default

    All routers without fine adjusters are PITA's to use under a table; this is why router lifts were invented. Many modern routers now have the facility to be adjusted above the table; if I was buying new I would go for one of those.

    Commercially available router lifts are very good, but also very expensive; for a GMC it's just not worth it. However as Treecycle linked to there are many DIY versions available. I was impressed with the Stumpy Nubs version; look it up on you tube.

    Many years ago I made a home-made router lift for a generic Made-in-China 1/4" router; it was basically an upside-down version of the Woodrat Plunge Bar. The bar acted on the handles to raise or lower the machine; at the front was a swing away hook on a threaded bar that provided the fine adjustment. Because the hook could be swung out the way the router could be brought up to full depth for bit changes, then re-engaged on the hook instantly. A knurled knob raised or lowered the bit and then you just locked the plunge mechanism. I'm away from home for the next week but PM me if you want me to photograph the assembly when I do get there.

    Regarding using a trimmer; I don't advise it. They are too low powered for anything but light use and I find the adjustment methods too coarse.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,820

    Default

    I have a fairly inexpensive router table, but it has a lot of fruit. Some of these ideas may appeal to you and others. Keep in mind that I am a compulsive tinkerer, and enjoy building ... anything.

    The basis of the router table is an aluminium plate from Timbecon built into the outfeed of my Hammer K3 table saw ...



    Underneath is an old 2 1/4 h.p Elu 177e router (minus the handles) which I purchased on eBay (UK) for about $100 a few years ago (I went looking for one specifically as I have a few of them - these are the BEST routers ever made, and they last forever!).



    I think that the switch box came either from Carbatec or Timbecon about 10 or 15 years ago.

    I built the fence from aluminium box, adding sliding faces. This is a very recent photo as I have just added the Jessem Clear Cut Router Guides (which both hold down and push the workpiece into the fence - I have these for the table saw rip fence as well) ...


    There is dust collection from behind the fence ...





    I am in the process of adding the Milescraft collector for combined underbench dust collection as well ...



    Bits are changed above the table ...



    ... by using a MuscleChuck to extend the collar. The other advantage of this is a single point for loosening/tightening ...



    The collar is raised/lowered using a Router Raizer, which is by far cheaper than a specialised lift mechanism. It can fit most routers ...



    I replaced the stick-like handle with one I made from a torque wrench ...



    This can spin really fast by the long arm, or it can use the racket to fine tune, as well as work close to the fence ...



    Of course, I am about to build a new fence ... just because. I hope there are ideas here you can use.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,681

    Default

    Is the Router mounting plate as flat as advertised by Timbecon and does it stay that way with use?
    Dallas

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,820

    Default

    The plate has remained dead flat. I have been using it for 2 years. The Elu router is not a lightweight.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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