Thread: Router Lifts

Hi all,

Ray's comments are not necessarily correct, the issues as I see them are;

1. If a TRA001 is mounted in a UniLIFT or similar, bit changing can only be done by getting under the table, switching off the switch on the router and manually winding the last bit to get the shaft above the table.
2. When changing the bit again you're under the table locking the shaft, while using a spanner from above.
3. When the bit is changed you have to reverse the procedure in 1/ above.
4. With a UniLIFT; the router is locked in the maximum plunge position (negating any slop or movement on the plunge mechanism). Here some routers are way better than others, in effect you're just using the router as a motor.
5. Using an Xtreme Xtension means that you can change bits above the table, single handed with a T Handled Ball Wrench without having to lock the shaft.
6. OK! There are some commonsense restrictions when using the Xtension e.g. Appropriate speed vs. bit size. But as most router table work is with bits less than 50mm dia this isn't really an issue.
7. Then the only reason to open your Router Table cabinet is to make speed changes, you'll quickly be able to do this without even bending.

My first boss' favorite statement comes to mind here....why keep a dog and bark yourself?? i.e. Why have a router lift if you still have to crawl under the table??

Yes, it's a personal choice but the above is how I and many of our customers see it.

Regards

Grahame

The Triton TR Router currently costs around $300 AUS retail, as far as I can tell.

The Unilift & Xtreme Xtension together currently cost around $370 AUS.

Total cost of installation, therefore, is around $670 AUS, but - even if discounts apply - the lift costs nearly 1¼ times the router itself and *cannot be used for anything else.

The total cost of ownership price does not, IMO, represent value for money, given that - were it to be spent on a Festool, or similar, router with built-in above the table height adjustment - then its component parts would be of higher quality and might represent more longevity and hence greater value.

I have never, nor will ever use a router extension. It can only lead to problems in the long term as it changes the design of the machine, loading the main bearing more than it was designed to tolerate. You can't get around the laws of physics, even with a good-quality extension.

You say that " ... as most router table work is with bits less than 50mm dia this isn't really an issue." Whether that's true or not, in the majority of cases, doesn't matter - what happens when you do need to do some panel-raising, using an existing horizontal set of cutters?

According to other posts on this forum, the new (CMT) version of the large Triton router has the through-the-table height adjustment, just as it's smaller router had from the start. Even without it, however, the above-the-table bit-changing is the feature I value the most, in both models.

As I habitually squat down to finely adjust the cutting height, operating the built-in winding mechanism has never caused me any difficulty. Indeed, although I also have the MOF001 model with the above-the-table winder included, I've never bothered to drill the extra hole in my table insert, because I don't need to use it and prefer to adjust the cutting height as above.

I'm not, therefore, sure in what way my previous comments were "not necessarily correct," especially as you accept that it's a "personal choice."

*MY personal choice means that I've got much more money available to buy other tools or cutters and - in this financial climate - value for money has become quite important.

Ray

Hey guys, I have posted some of the following elsewhere but I thought it may be useful for this discussion as well. Firstly, a possible solution for above table router bit changing is the "Offset Router Table Bit Wrench". See:
Heavyweight and Precision Router Table

Secondly, the "perfect" solution to a great priced router and built in Router lift is the USA model routers such as the Bosch. I bought the 2 1/4 hp model, see:

Bosch Fixed-Base 2-1/4-hp Router 1617EVS - Fine Woodworking Tool Review

This thing is a delight to use and if ever you do want to remove it from the table, simply push one button and the motor unit slides out from the base (which stays attached to the table).

All you need is a 110v transformer.

Sorry to disagree, TP1, but in the context of this discussion the angled wrench doesn't help, because you can't lock the Triton collet from above the table when it's used in a lift. Graeme's option involves a router extension extension, which uses an Allen key to release the cutter.

The Bosch, besides being a much lower-powered router, uses two wrenches to clamp and release the cutter, so - as far as I can see - cannot be changed from above the table in any event.

Unless I've got hold of the wrong end of the stick altogether?

Ray

I recently had to replace my table router and, after much thought I went for the Trend T11. I'm not sure if the Trend is available in Oz but it is basically the same machine as the Dewalt 625, with a bigger base opening and the facility to adjust bit height from above or below the table. This facility bypasses the need for router lifts with no loss of plunge depth/bit height. I was lucky to already own an XtremeXtension, which allows above the table bit changes with just one Allan key. As for runout, with the XX fitted and my biggest diameter bit, I got a runout of less than 0.003" without much trying. The XX literature that came with the extension indicates that the max permitted runout is 0.009", so well within tolerances. I don't know if this will help or just add to the confusion, but it's just my 2 cents worth.

cheers

George

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

Sorry to disagree, TP1, but in the context of this discussion the angled wrench doesn't help, because you can't lock the Triton collet from above the table when it's used in a lift. Graeme's option involves a router extension extension, which uses an Allen key to release the cutter.

The Bosch, besides being a much lower-powered router, uses two wrenches to clamp and release the cutter, so - as far as I can see - cannot be changed from above the table in any event.

Unless I've got hold of the wrong end of the stick altogether?

Ray

I haven't tried to change bits while the router is still on the table - I offered the wrench idea as a possible solution ( which is what the advertisers claim) .

With the Bosch Router, its a one button affair to quickly release the router body while the Bosch frame stays in place on the table so you don't need to undo any screws. Once the bit is changed the router is slipped back into the frame and simply clicks into place. The same system is used to change from a fixed base to a plunge base. Power wise its been fine - I also have a 3HP router which I don't use as much due to it not having a "built in router lift" and being way more difficult to remove and replace from the table.

I recently purchased a spindle moulder which I now use with larger diameter router bits as well as shaper cutters.

Where can you get those fixed based routers here in Aust? I've looked, and there doesn't seem to be a market for them here.

I know the Aussie $ is good at the moment, so importing one would be fairly inexpensive, but what if something goes wrong with it. Will it be easy to get spare parts for them?

In the end, I chose the TRA001 mainly because I've read great reviews about them and that alot of people use them in Router Tables (Not necessarily used on a Triton Table)

If I go by Ray's comments, I would probably be better off getting a Router Plate instead of a lift (Unilift) as I believe I would then be able to change bits above the table as I'll be able to wind the height to the max and have the collet lock engaged. I think it would be harder on the UNILIFT. Please correct me if I'm wrong

I would really like to get the Unilift, but I'm not sure that my missus would let me spend $450 on it. That's even more than my new TRA001 ($200 from Grays Online) Anyone got a spare Unilift they want to sell at a bargain

I bought my router from the USA - there does not appear to be any US style routers here with interchangeable bases . I haven't seen any with built in router lifts for router table work either, but George' suggestion about the Dewalt may be one exception.

In terms of warranties, for me I have never had any problems with imported tools, perhaps I've been lucky or it may be that good tools from reputable manufacturers don't break down that often for hobbyist work. If I did have problems, I would have to either return it to the USA or grin and bear it. However I only buy these things when there is no other option in Oz or that the price difference is just too much to resist..

G'day Tom, an oldie but it has been giving me great service for years.

Rise and fall can be done easily, even fractions of a mm can be dialed in. Bit changes, apart from lowering the router in some cases is as easily accomplished in or out of the table with the usual 2 spanners [the pressed short flat metal spanners should be ditched and replaced with quality open enders ASAP].

The table has since been upgraded onto a mobile stand and an adjustable fence with DE has also been added.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/xt...93/#post228482

Regards,
Bob

I have a TRA001 in my router table with a home made steel insert with which i have had no problems with accurate height adjustment. I use a Height Gauge when i need to be super accurate, adjust the cutter height using the micro adjust to touch the height gauge then lock the router into place. I always take test cuts on scrap first.

If you already own a Triton router, i would be looking for the strongest mounting plate instead of a router lift. PWS has a Woodpecker Cast Aluminium Router Plate For $210. It looks ok (never seen one in the flesh, just pics on thier website). It has 3 different sized insert rings and comes pre-drilled for the Triton.
You would need to look for flatness of the top with the insert rings fitted.
For an extra $85 you can also get a pack of 8 insert rings to fit.

Just another option. But if you had the money for a uni-lift (currently $550.), i say go for it.

Steven.

I've said it before and I will say it again now: What is the Bloody point of spending money on an expensive and unnecessary gadget like a router lift????

Our friends in the Us seem to love such gadgets but - do we need to be infected by this diseae.?? No, no, no!

my Triton is permanently mounted in the home made table, based on Roger Gifkins design. Never had a problem!! My brother, a very thorough tradesman and a renowned nitpicker thinks it's the duck's guts.

Ray is right in everything he says.

Now if you need a router lifting device because you are unfortunate enough not to own a Triton then buil your own by using a car jack. Inexpensive, simple and grossly effective!!