Thread: Router Lifts

I use the Triton TRA001 under my r/table with one of these and love it UniLIFT My r/table is here https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/wa...r-table-48663/

I agree can't go past the Unilift, available here

Hi there,

thanks for the recommendations. Are you able to tell me if bit changing above the table is possible without having to physically adjust the router from under the table. I can see on the unilift that you'll be able to adjust the height, however with the thickness of the plate, will you still be able to lift the router to it's max plunge for the bit changing mechanism to lock into place?

If you get the Xtreme xtension then all you need is an allen key. Also available from PWS.

To answer your question, yes. You have to got through the same process as if it were not under the table, by way of locking the collet etc. But it's simple and quick to do.

...or just wait a couple of weeks until Carbatec have the Triton TRA001B in stock.

This is apparently the TRA-001, but modified to allow the above height table winder found on the MOF001 (which I have).

Problem solved - no router lift required !

Why would anyone put a Triton in a router lift - you pay significant money to LOSE the two main features it was designed to provide free. Using an extension requires more money to give the possibility of increased runout - I just don't understand this approach at all.

Ray

What runout? My biggest gripe with the TRA001 is you can't get spot on to the height required and the worm screw is its weakest feature, as it winds up to height but drops a few mm or as it is locked in. With the Unlift I get exact height to absolute accuracy and is locked solid. Sure it costs more, but it has been money very well spent. Just my 2¢

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

Why would anyone put a Triton in a router lift - you pay significant money to LOSE the two main features it was designed to provide free. Using an extension requires more money to give the possibility of increased runout - I just don't understand this approach at all.

Ray

What is gained?

EDIT: Just saw Waldo's reply. I still don't get it. The baby Triton I use doesn't move at all that I've noticed, is there a problem with the bigger unit?

Originally Posted by Groggy

... is there a problem with the bigger unit?

The short answer is "No." The longer answer is "There could be, depending upon operator practices" (N.B: the following comments are general and not aimed at any specific contributor).

It has never ceased to amaze me that purchasers buy a router with unique features, then don't bother to either read the manual or take reasonable steps to understand how the machine works. The ability to remove the plunge spring, a <10 second job, is there for a very good reason, yet IME an amazing number of Triton owners simply do not bother to remove it, for whatever reason - usually laziness, expedience or plain old ignorance regarding why they should remove it.

The pressure required to raise the inverted router against the plunge spring is reduced by a very large factor when the spring is removed. Therefore, not only is the router easier to raise, but it's far kinder to the mechanism. Given that the worm gear is a simple reduction (probably in the order of around 1:10 ratio) of the coarse rack-and-pinion mechanism operated by the right-hand handle, it has the advantage of working anywhere within the entire plunge range.

The perceived disadvantage is that the worm is made of plastic and is operated by a metal cog. This makes it the weakest point in the chain, although I'm certain that this is deliberate, as it becomes a "shear point," relieving the considerable forces that could operate (against the upper motor housing) if the mechanism were all metal. You may recall that there was a suggestion some years back that the plastic worm would be replaced by a metal version (probably brass), but nothing ever came of it AFAIK.

Given, then, that this worm is the weakest point, it is clearly best operating practice to raise the cutter slightly above the height required, then lower it down with the fine adjuster to the required height. This is my everyday practice and there can only be one or two circumstances where this practice is not possible. I've had NO trouble whatsoever with my worm drive since I understood how it works (and appreciated its probable function as the shear point).

Due to the "different materials" factor, it is possible to strip the worm gear if the fine adjuster is turned while:

• the plunge lock is engaged.
• the plunge has reached its limit of travel
• the depth stop has been locked, reducing the plunge height
• the router is off, but the power switch is still on, giving a false impression of adjustment still available.

None of the above are, IMO, faults with the machine, but are all operator error and can all be easily overcome with the appropriate level of understanding and appreciation of the tool.

In regard to runout with collet extensions, Waldo, I mentioned it as a possibility, not a fact, but IME all extensions take careful balancing and some trial and error before being acceptable for daily use.

Ray

Ahh, runout with an extension - now I understand you Ray.

As always, a carefull and explicit reply from a master wood worker.
Ray I think we are very lucky to have all your experience at our disposal
as there are many of us who value your help and all the technical data you provide.

Bob

Well, this has been a interesting discussion.

If a router lift is not necessary, can anyone tell me what is a good router plate and where I'll be able to get one. Which is better a Phenolic or Aluminium plate?

It's horses for courses. Tiamb1, I'd give Grahame at PWS a ring. (sponsor of this part of the forum) and he'll sort you out with the right things for your needs.