New Router Fence

**Tex B** · 6th September 2009, 01:27 PM

My old router fence was basic and functional (much like myself). A straight bit of hardwood held in place by some ply, fixed at one end with a bolt and the other end with a clamp.

Attachment 115555

Worked well for many years, but over time there are a few things I wished it had.

- A higher fence to support boards on end, and to provide a place to attach a featherboard

- Adjustable throat, to provide better support with small bits and opening up to allow for large bits

- Ability to adjust space between fence and bit while remaining parallel to the T-track

But, it worked and there always seemed to be something more interesting to do than build another fence.

In the last few months, though, I noticed it was getting a little worn (?) or had somehow become not quite straight. Not straight may be perfectly fine for Kings Cross (not that there's anything wrong with that

), but for a router table fence, not straight is decidedly less than preferable.

So, instead of just taking the old Stanley #7 to it, I took the opportunity to replace.

New fence is still reasonably basic, but a definite improvement, and addresses all my issues.

Attachment 115556 Attachment 115557

Will probably put a proper T-track in at some point, but working OK so far. Construction should be apparent from the photo, mostly MDF.

Cheers,

Tex

**YeahNah** · 7th September 2009, 09:55 PM

Nice job Tex. A big upgrade I think!

**Bob38S** · 10th September 2009, 11:01 AM

Very nice and should do the job well.

My only concern would be the MDF. My limited experience with MDF has not been good unless it has been sealed [top, sides, bottom] to keep out moisture including humidity. I have found that even a couple of drops of sweat on an edge can cause a problem.

For the above reason I tend to use mainly ply which is appropriately sealed before use.

Hope it helps,
Bob

**Tex B** · 10th September 2009, 08:39 PM

Thanks Bob. I hadn't considered that. The other MDF jigs I have seem OK, but don't get near as much use as the router fence.

A coat of danish oil perhaps?

Tex

**Bob38S** · 11th September 2009, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by Tex B

Thanks Bob. I hadn't considered that. The other MDF jigs I have seem OK, but don't get near as much use as the router fence.

A coat of danish oil perhaps?

Tex

Not sure about the Danish Oil as I have not used it for that purpose - what I have used is a "Prooftint Pine Sealer" from Feast Watson to seal the edges and any flat surfaces where the "coating" has been removed followed by "Satinproof".

I have also had success with "Wattyl Estapol Tung Oil" first coat slightly thinned. The claim is that it actually penetrates the fibres and "strengthens them" - not sure about this one but as it is good for "heavy traffic floors" then it can't do your fence any harm. One of the advantages of the "tung oil" is that it can be rubbed on - giving a thin coat, no brush marks and shouldn't change the tolerances of the bits that need to move on your fence. I have used this on all of my benches and found it to be good.

Hope it helps,
Bob

**murray44** · 11th September 2009, 12:51 PM

Tex,

I have been 'umming and ahhing' about a router fence for a while. I notice that your new one is two piece (or at least has a gap in the middle) whereas the old one was one piece.

Is that a design improvement or was it just easy to build it that way?

thanks, Murray

**Tex B** · 13th September 2009, 07:54 PM

Originally Posted by murray44

Tex,

I have been 'umming and ahhing' about a router fence for a while. I notice that your new one is two piece (or at least has a gap in the middle) whereas the old one was one piece.

Is that a design improvement or was it just easy to build it that way?

thanks, Murray

The fence was designed that way, and each side moves. This allows for a tight gap between fence and bit. The old fence had a notch cut out that worked for my larger bits, but when using a small bit (say a 12mm straight bit) there was quite a gap between fence and bit. So the adjustment allows me to make that gap small for any bit, which provides better support for the workpiece.

Tex

**murray44** · 13th September 2009, 09:46 PM

Thanks Tex,

Good idea, I'll keep that in mind.

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