Thread: Router setup question

After you insert the bit, do you lift it a tad before tightening so that it's not bottomed out. This a common problem, the bit must be clear of the bottom, otherwise the vibration causes the bit to move

Andrew, per what DJ said, you need to have the router bit clear of the bottom of the collet when tightened up.

This can be done by holding the bit up from the bottom a little while tightening up the collet, or you can use an O ring on the shank of the router bit to limit the depth it drops into the collet; or you can use an O ring that is a neat fit in the bottom of the collet & the bits sit on it, & it compresses when the collet is tightened.

I've used both O ring methods & they work well.

Provided the router bit shank is the correct size for your router (ie. 1/2" in a 1/2" collet) and in good condition, and the collet is clean & in good nick, & inserted to the correct depth, there shouldn't be any movement once tightened up.


Cheers...............Sean

Is it a 12mm or 6mm shank router. the 6mm is more prone to flex. Let the bit cut at it's own speed and do not force the advance. Practice on a few offcuts and develop a feel for the cut. Also the depth of cut may be too much for one pass. You have to get the feel of different bits in the kind of timber you are working with.

Regards
John

Cut the pressure spring from a click pen in half (or whatever length serves your purposes) and put it into the collet. This will ensure that the bit never bottoms out.

If the bit is not bottoming out but still moving despite adequate tightening, you will understand why professionals don't buy copies... A precesion ground hardened 12mm collet can easily cost you 100 bucks. In many cases, this is more than a cheap Chinese router costs in the first place...

Seems like you don't use your router much anyway so it would be a bit pointless investing in an expensive one. I would try the suggestions above. You might just be taking the cut too deep and placing a huge strain on the bit which can cause the bit to "turn" in the collet and become loose. This will eventually damage both the bit and the collet. Make shallower passes with the router and you may find your problem will dissapear.

Andrew, I think John has the right idea. Try taking about 5mm and two passes at removing the stock. Especially if you are routing a dado in hardwood.

Originally Posted by damienhazo

Cut the pressure spring from a click pen in half (or whatever length serves your purposes) and put it into the collet. This will ensure that the bit never bottoms out.

Another you might try,
is to insert an O-ring, just a little smaller that the Shaft size.

Perhaps even 2 O-rings.

Originally Posted by kiwioutdoors

I have had a chinese copy of a makita router for a couple of years now and had a need to use it today for the first time. ! set it up to rout with the guide at a depth of 10mm. I noticed to my annoyance that over time the router bit would move in the colet so i would end up at 12mm. I was using a quality Woodcraft bit and the collet was very tight. I also could not shift the bit without loosening the collet.

Why would this happen? is it possible I had the bit to far into the collet and the shift is just the result of the bit seating itself into possition.

Do i need to put the bit in the collet tighten it up and let it run for a while to get correct seating and then make my setup

Thanks for your help

Andrew

Was the router used in the handheld position? if the answer is yes then I would also check out the plunge stop. as that may be where you have the movement.

Check your collet diameter and cutter diameter to ensure they are the same.
Tom