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Thread: My router table

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Tauranga, New Zealand
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    Default My router table

    Hi all. I have just finished my version of a router table. It has been a long term project that has taken me over 18 months (on and off) so I'm quite pleased to finally have finished the bugga.
    It is not an original design, I have "borrowed" the ideas of many others. Rather than an open based design, I decided to make a cabinet style to help contain the dust and noise especially. The locking castors were necessary to mobilise it and then keep it still when in use.
    I wanted a fence which was adjustable and included dust collection too. Pat Warner's microadjustable fencehttp://http://www.patwarner.com/images/fence_left.jpg was used as an inspiration, as was the WoodMall router table fence designhttp://www.woodstore.net/rofe.html
    To help solve the usual problem of router(spring) inertia when installed upside down in a table, I decided on the Woodrat plunge bar for my Ryobi ERT2100VK router as this meant I could also easily use it in normal mode out of the table.

    Attachment 22869
    Cheers, McFly

    There's a way to do it better - find it.
    Thomas A. Edison

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  3. #2
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    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
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    Default

    Very nice looking router table McFly!

  4. #3
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    Default

    Top Job


  5. #4
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    Default

    Here are a few more photos.
    The fence.
    Attachment 22870 Attachment 22871 Attachment 22872

    Plunge bar and router under top.
    Attachment 22873
    Cheers, McFly

    There's a way to do it better - find it.
    Thomas A. Edison

  6. #5
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    Top Job!!!

    How does she go! Looks fantastic McFly Well Done!

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  7. #6
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    Default

    Thanks for the replies. NewLou - I have only given it a quick whirl so far.
    Haven't actually used the fence yet. I installed the Xtreme Xtension from Professional Woodworkers Supplies - it definitely makes life much easier to change the bits from above the table.

    Actually, even though I said have finished it - the door isn't yet attached as I only applied a coat on poly this afternoon. I will put the hinges on tomorrow and need to drill a hole in the base to accept the dust collection hose - after this it will be "finished".

    I want to use it for box making with my newly purchased Gifkins dovetail jig. I also have a 19mm x 50mm long cutter which I plan on using for edge jointing.
    Cheers, McFly

    There's a way to do it better - find it.
    Thomas A. Edison

  8. #7
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    Default

    looks nice mc Fly

  9. #8
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    Default

    Nice router table
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Chuwar QLD
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    Default

    McFly – have you got any dust extraction to your router box. Obviously this will remove dust that drops into the box but more importantly it’ll draw air over the enclosed router and help cool it if you run it for any length of time. Good lookin' table.
    Fantastic cheese Grommit!!

  11. #10
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    Default

    Thanks for the picture of a great cabinet and router fence.

    Yours and Greenie's fences have been very useful & inspiring.

    Cheers

  12. #11
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    Nice job McFly

    Great looking table
    Cheers sam

  13. #12
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    Looks good - should work well - just ensure that the router gets enough cooling air as things can get very hot in that sort of environment.
    Bob

  14. #13
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    Default

    very nice looking table. That fences gives me ideas for my own fence!!

  15. #14
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    Default

    I will have dust extraction to the router box via a vacuum hose to lower rear part of the enclosure. The cabinet door has a small gap under it to allow air to enter. I have one of the Triton dust extraction buckets with twin hoses so can attach the vacuum to both router cabinet and fence. I haven't used this yet so when I do I will let you all now how efficient the DC is.

    The fence has microadjustable features much like the Rocker mortising jig - originally designed by Pat Warner (as Rocker himself has mentioned). I used a 5/16" threaded rod as the basis for the microadjustment and polythene strips as the runners on which the top part of the fence slides on the base of it.

    The front faces can be also adjusted via wing nuts (will replace with plastic knobs when they arrive) so the opening of the fence can close up to the size of the cutter being used. The top part of the fence has a T-track attached so feather boards, home made guards and stop blocks can also be used.

    I used a Triton router table switch to control power to the router.
    Cheers, McFly

    There's a way to do it better - find it.
    Thomas A. Edison

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