Thread: Making a router table

I'm at the 'round tuit' stage . My current plans are to make the top of 1 or 2 layers of 20mm CD ply with a sheet of laminate glued on top - will have to paint or laminate the back as well to stop it from curling up - then mounting this on a 'Norm'-ite pedestal with drawers/cupboards for storage built in & locking casters. I've got the aluminium router plate ready for my large Triton router - from PWS above, and a spare Triton power block for an on/off switch (Carbatec).

Ultimately it will fit between the fence rails on my tablesaw - there is nowhere else for it to live - and attach with some screws & inserts thru' the back rail so I can easily detach it & set it up as a separate work station if I want to but otherwise it will go around with the tablesaw - screwing it in place will mean that for some jobs I can use the table saw fence with a Wixey digital measuring dodad. I have the track to make a '#' shaped set of tracks for fences, hold-downs & jigs - I can envisage running jobs in just about every direction depending on the size of the job & where the cut has to be made.

I guess it depends on whether you want handsome tools, or just to get on with the business of producing. I threw together a "table" from a sink cutout with laminated (e.g. Formica (tm)) surface. Freehand routed a rebate to accept a stout plate of whateveritwas (some sort of desk chair riding surface; I forget what they're called). I attach it to a pair of sawhorses, and shim the legs to make it "flat." I made a movable fence for it. I routed a groove for a mitre protractor, but I've never used it. When not in use, I store the top vertically somewhere, and use the sawhorses for other things. Some day (hah!), I'll modify it to fit on a Workmate, but don't hold your breath.

[And welcome aboard, James.]

Joe

Welcome James
If your interested get hold of Wood Review magazine No52 - it has a router table build by Richard Vaughan in it. I made the same one with a couple of mods from plan - whatever you do don't follow the cutting list in mag or you will end up with a table that is about 2ft too low. Check out the cutting list on Wood Review website for updated plans at http://www.woodreview.com.au/storyex...uttinglist.pdf
You can find some pics of my table in threads for router tables at http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...117#post527117. Top was made from 33mm kitchen bench top with smooth laminate applied to top. Has plastic insert from Timbecon obtained at woodshow. Would like to change to metal one at some stage but as is it does work a treat.
Best of luck
David H

Thanks guys,

Great advice.I like the sink cut out with laminated surface idea (I thought about that too but I need to find one!!).

David H, I am impressed, your table looks GREAT. I don't know if I'll put the draws in but you've inspired me to do a good job now.

The links are very helpful. I'll have to track down that issue. I just started subscribing so maybe they'll send me a copy?

Also, what's this router plate/stout plate stuff? Do I need that or can I just countersink some screws/bolts to attached my router (after making a hole for the spinning thing of course)

Cheers

James

Although it requires an extra part, and an extra operation, the plate makes insertion easier. Also, it allows more bit projection above the table. The alternative is to support the router from below for attachment, with reduced projection. The latter limits the thickness of the workpiece. For maximum projection, replace the standard base riding surface with the plate. Also make the hole in the table large enough to accept the handles of the router, dropping in from above. With a rectangular plate, the handles can be located along the diagonal, then twisted to alignment after the handles have passed through.

[I didn't make that quite clear. The handles can be located parallel to the long side of the rectangle, with insertion on the diagonal of the hole.]

Joe

James
If you are interested in Richards table send me a PM with email address and I will get a copy of article to you
David

Thanks Joe,

That makes perfect sense. I don't want to be tempted not to put the bit in all the way!!!! I'll check my router to see how far it comes out but the plate sounds like the go.
I especially got the triton router too because it will come all the way out and allow you to change bits from above the table. Richard Vaughan said it was the only router he knew that would do that....

David H, I'll send a message once I work out the PM thing.

James

Hey David H,

I can't send you a private message because it says you have either chosen not to recieve them or you are not allowed to when I try? (or maybe I can't send them).

Anyway. Can you post that article to [email protected] ?

I promise to post a picture when I'm finished if you promise not to laugh

cheers,

James

James
Have sent you copy of article. Can't understand why PM thingy didn't work as I just checked settings and it tells me I can get PM from anyone? Go figure.
Anyway hope the article gets you motivated - you will find lots of different tables in the Router Forum if you have the time to gander for a day or two.
Am sure all would like to see a pic when your finished or even ones from start to finish.
David

Originally Posted by David H

James
Have sent you copy of article. Can't understand why PM thingy didn't work as I just checked settings and it tells me I can get PM from anyone? Go figure.
Anyway hope the article gets you motivated - you will find lots of different tables in the Router Forum if you have the time to gander for a day or two.
Am sure all would like to see a pic when your finished or even ones from start to finish.
David

I've been perusing shopbuilt tables in another forum. I saw one made from an old sewing cabinet (old enough that my first glance reminded me of the old pedal Singer sewing machine Mum had in the 40s and 50s).

Another idea I picked up is to hinge the top (piano hinge) so you can lift it up and have at the machine easily.

The table by Richard can be quite easily modified to have the table top lift up. I used some old door hinges on mine and it worked out fine. Just have to find a better way of propping up the table when open as it is quite heavy with router in it with thick top.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comSorry about the poor quality pic</o:lock>
<o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit">David</o:lock>

Originally Posted by David H

The table by Richard can be quite easily modified to have the table top lift up. I used some old door hinges on mine and it worked out fine. Just have to find a better way of propping up the table when open as it is quite heavy with router in it with thick top.
<o:lock aspectratio=" border=" 0="" alt="">Sorry about the poor quality pic</o:lock>
<o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit">David</o:lock>

Look at air-lift struts, like one finds at the back of station wagons, hatchbacks etc. Presumably those are too robust or long, but the idea's there.

A brace on a hinge, with a pocket to sit it up when the lid's up should be okay. If you think you might still knock it out, a pin to hold the loose end in the pocket.

If you're using digital zoom, don't, Shoot the resolution you want, and if yoi don't know what you want, the best the camera will do, and fix it later.

Originally Posted by Johncs

Look at air-lift struts, like one finds at the back of station wagons, hatchbacks etc. Presumably those are too robust or long, but the idea's there.

In the upover, and maybe downunder too, they're called "gas springs." Usually constant-force. A large range of sizes and different constant-force amounts are available. Auto parts stores should have most of the likely combinations you'd need. If the available extension dimensions are insufficient, they might be connected in series depending on the end fittings available (Need a rigid connection at the join). Contrariwise, with too-large an extension, connect the lower end near the bottom of the table, or something like that. Telephone or visit an auto parts store, and secure the critical dimensions. Draw some cartoons to see what will work. Do the final design and construction with the actual parts in hand, not before. DAMHIKT.

Joe

Well, I finally finished it and have got around to putting the pictures up here. I finished the base around christmas and ended up buying a commercially produced top because it wasn't very expensive. I'm glad I did because it works extemely well and it would have taken me ages to make it as good as the bought top. My router is very happy in this table and I'm now getting down to using it. Already made a few things and learnt heaps about using routers safely.

I hope others find the pictures useful.

David, thanks heaps for the posting me Richard's design.