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Thread: New router table build
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20th April 2012, 06:34 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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New router table build
I've decided to make a dedicated router table as swapping out the saw/router in the Triton table is a pain.
Top will be 2 thicknesses of MDF, 25mm and 12mm with laminex on both sides (not really sure why this is recommended but the laminex is pretty cheap as long as you don;t really care about the pattern/colour . )
Despite not having a firm design or size, I've ordered some mitre and t track for the table top as well as a router plate. Size is still to be decided but as the mitre track is 1220mm, that pretty much sets the width.
I'm happy with gluing it all together but as I've never cut laminex with a router before, I'm a bit nervous about cutting the slots for the track.
Any suggestions for doing this correctly? i.e. not butchering the edge of the slot!
I have an Hitachi TR12 router and a small Ozito which may be better suited for the laminex cutting.Geoff
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20th April 2012 06:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th April 2012, 06:41 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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I've never cut laminex with a router before, I'm a bit nervous about cutting the slots for the track.Any suggestions for doing this correctly?
I normally use a router to trim laminex
Go for it, you'll be OKregards,
Dengy
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20th April 2012, 08:00 PM #3
Laminex either side is so that one side doesn't absorb more moisture than the other and cause warping.
A sharp router bit will cut laminex cleanly. Take your time setting up and use straight edges and jigs where possible to prevent the router wandering. I need to build another router table too. The one i have was a temporary measure several years ago.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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20th April 2012, 10:05 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for the responses about routing laminex. I have boxes of new router bits (I stocked up when Saw and Bits had their clearance sale last year). I'll make up some test pieces to practice on.
I was going to paint the other side of the MDF but if putting laminex on it is recommended, I'll pick up another sheet - it's only $10.
Still the decision to make about size. It will be 1220mm wide by ???Geoff
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21st April 2012, 11:55 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Hi there Snowy,
Just for a matter of interest, here are some photos of the router table that I built for myself just a few weeks ago. I based it on the design by Roger Gifkin on his site (that he made in 2006 I think), and modified it slightly. I also built it solely for my new Triton Router TRB001.
There is an extra fence that goes long ways as well as the one in the photo. I've also built a couple of jigs to suit this table. One being a cradle for spline cutting on mitre joints, other for holding small pieces of timber whilst routering. Another for finger joints, (not quite finished that one yet). I must take some photos of them one day.
I love this table, everything is so simple to use on it. Everything is adjusted from the top, no standing on my head anymore to change bits under the table etc, everything is just so easy,
The top size is 710x460. It is 24mm thick made up of (from top down) 3mm laminex, 6mm mdf board, 12mm mdf board 3mm laminex. There is a 190mm circle cut into the bottom two layers to accommodate my router, hence it is just mounted onto 9mm of laminex/mdf board.
Paul
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21st April 2012, 04:47 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Paul,
The more pictures the better!
Checking sizes of various router table articles and plans, the most common ratio of depth to length is 3:2.
I've a piece of 25mm MDF that is 600mm wide which is a bit narrow if I use 1220mm for the width (t-track is 1220). The correct ratio would give a depth of 900mm.
I'm not sure how important this is but of all the plans I looked at, the ratio remained pretty close.
T-Track is on it's way but only one piece where as I ordered 6 . At least I can get on with the laminating the MDF and laminate. EDIT:I got an email from PWS apologising for the mistake, the remaining t-tracks will be here next week.
The router plates I'm getting are blank so I need to work out the best way to accurately drill these so I can use some sort of interchangeable insert with them. There are router plate inserts available but I'm trying to keep this affordable. I think I need to get the CNC router sorted as it seems an ideal application for it.
Too many projects, too little time! (and money)!Geoff
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21st May 2012, 10:07 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Having decided to get a Triton router to replace the damaged Hitachi, the router table build is moving slowly forward.
I got some cheap 19mm ply (actually brown formply) that I'll use for the cabinet. The top as previously mentioned will be a layer of 12mm and 25mm MDF with laminate each side and (probably) a timber edge.
Is it best to make the MDF part and cut out the router plate hole before I apply the lamiex and trim it to suit the hole or should I just make up the table top, laminex and all, and then cut the router plate hole?Geoff
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26th May 2012, 10:38 PM #8Senior Member
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I guess. just apply lamiate first and then cut the hole through.. laminate doesn't chip that easy.. As a precaution just use masking tape over the place you are going to cut through...
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27th May 2012, 09:30 AM #9
Bit late but apply the laminex before you cut out the insert.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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27th May 2012, 10:28 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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At the speed I build things, it's never too late for advice!
I'll do the routing after the table tops is complete. I just have to find a large flat space in the shed to do it. I thought having a 4 metre bench would be enough ...Geoff
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27th May 2012, 10:40 AM #11
A good pair of saw horse never goes astray
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27th May 2012, 12:32 PM #12Senior Member
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27th May 2012, 01:35 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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