Thread: Router Table Layout

Don't put it so far back that it is uncomfortable or dangerous to reach the bit. You need to be able to control the workpiece. I'd say middle would be the maximum you want to set it back but I would move it a little closer to the front.
I just went and measured mine and it is central on a 700 deep table. 350 from the front is a comfortable depth for me.

Not too far back is my vote. It also depends on the height on how comfortable your reach is. Larger over hanging piece can always be supported by other means.

I set my router plate slighly further back (about 80mm) to give more support for my work piece and so far its worked well.

Too far back might cause issues with the router, my cabinet is based on the cabinet norm made (New Yankeee Workshop) just a touch wider and a smaller router compartment as I found the side drawers were too small.

I've attached and old pic.

I did mine slightly to the left of centre as I have an Incra LS fence system on the right side of the table that I can slide off or on as needed. I found this works well on a 800mm x 600mm table top.

SB

Originally Posted by dr_philj

Hi All

I have been building a router table for a little while now and I am about to set out the router table. I have a router plate, Kreg, and a Triton TRA001 as a basis for the table. The table dimension is large I am using a 1200mmx800mm tabletop. . . .

That's pretty wide or deep for a router table. Unless you are doing special stuff I wouldn't put the router more than 400 mm or so from the front of any table. As
NCArcher says you want to be able to control the work. Other aspects worth considering are; ease of inserting and removing bits, adjusting the height, and just being able to see what is going on. If the router is too far back all three may become problematic.

I have to agree with the advice so far. I think the position of the router is dependent on the size of your top. You have to feel comfortable handling the workpiece, no good if you have to lean against the front edge of your table to reach the router bit.
My table is 900 *600 and my router is right in the middle. I find this works for me.

Steven.

Like Spokeshave, My table is also 900 x 600.

My router center is 340mm from the front edge, 260mm from the back.

My old table was set further toward the back edge and I found it a bit limiting because when the fence was set right back, there were times when it still wasn't deep enough to do some jobs.

When I decided to to make my new table top, I set the router to almost the limit of adjustment on my fence, which I worked out to be 260mm from the back edge.

I drilled a series of holes for hold down points on the top to fix jigs & stuff I haven't thought of yet. I also put a mitre slot across the plate. I am going to have to build a mitre gauge to suit.



Router top 19.jpg

Steve

Hi All

Really appreciate the feedback. Okay, the consensus is that it shouldn't be any further back than 400mm. I am happy 400mm as it is really comfortable for me to work the router and table.

Now what I want to do is put the T track on the router table. I have attached my general plan and would love any comments. As I indicated before I am using a Kreg Router plate. The measurements I have put on the diagram are my first guess. If anyone has any feedback I would really appreciate it, and I would expect there would be plenty of people who look at this forum it would be also interested.

- Phil


router_table.pdf

Hey Phil,

I think the layout on your Dwg is fine.

To be honest, as long as your fence tracks are parallel and square to your other track, I think your fine.

Steve

Of course, if you make the T-track for the fence reach right across the table, then you can just turn the fence around if you need an extra wide table top. IIRC Professional Woodworking Supplies or Carbatec as well as Rockler sell pre-cut T-track intersection kits, basically 4 'V' mitered short pieces of track, to make this easier. Then you can place the router plate wherever you like

Another suggestion: If you are using the router table as a regular assembly/glue up/painting table, make a ply or MDF plate to plug the hole, then put your router and plate away in a drawer or cupboard. This will stop you spilling anything nasty into your router and/or dinging up the nice router plate. A router full of PVA or worse is not a happy thing.

All looks good to me too.

But if you dont want to follow bsrlee's advice and go all the way across (front to back) of your table with your fence t-track, then i would atleast go a bit past the centre line of your insert.
If you start using larger panel bits in your table for example, you dont want to run out of travel with your fence because you've stopped short with your t-track. I would probably stop the t-track at the half way piont of the centre-line and the front edge of your insert.

Just my opinion, others may dis-agree.

Steven.

I agree with SS, bring the fence tracks past the centre line.

Hi Cliff and SS

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

I agree with SS, bring the fence tracks past the centre line.

This is interesting. I like the idea but have you tried this? Do you think that it should be half way between the centreline and edge of the router plate?.

If the tracks go pass the centreline do you think I will have an effect on the piece sliding past it? I understand that the track is recessed, but swarf, etc.

Love to hear your thoughts...

By the way there will be photos when I am finished....

- Phil

Originally Posted by dr_philj

By the way there will be photos when I am finished....

- Phil

Sorry Phil but that is against forum rules. We need photos during and after the build. You need to start a new WIP thread and keep us updated at least daily....

I usually stop my fence tracks just short of level with the centre but make the base on the fence wide enough that the face of the fence can project past the bit if needed. I don't like the idea of having track across the path of the workpiece.