Thread: Some more router table questions

Originally Posted by T.C

2) How accurate and robust is the height winder on the Triton TRA001b combined with a woodpecker phenolic plate?
I've been tossing up between the big Triton and the variable speed Makita and Hitachi's with a car jack type lift.

I can't help with your first question, as I'm in the UK. However, number 2 is right up my street!

The worm gear in the TRA router operates on a metal geared cog, which is linked to a shaft which turns a plastic geared cog in a rack in the right-hand plunge post (leg). The fine adjuster acts directly on the worm shaft, giving very fine control throughout the plunge range. Coarse height adjustment with the winding handle, then tune with the fine adjuster knob. You can see the gearing in this dismantled inverted router:



When used hand-held, especially for plunge routing, the plunge spring must be in place for correct operation. However, when inverted in a table this plunge spring MUST be removed:



otherwise - in addition to the forces of gravity - the winding gear will need to overcome the spring pressure as well. This subjects the worm gear to far more pressure than it was designed for and the grooves (or lands) on the gear can become stripped. This renders the worm gear much less effective and totally removes the ability for the fine adjuster to operate correctly.

There is a simple way to prevent this - ALWAYS REMOVE THE PLUNGE SPRING when using inverted - but there are still those who don't, in spite of the fact that it's a <10 seconds task!

Recently, there has been an alternative solution if your worm gear is already stripped, in that you can now replace the plastic worm shaft with an alloy one (SKU 769869 for the TRA and SKU 723874 for the MOF001) from Toolsparesonline.com, who also do 8mm and 12mm dedicated collets for the MOF. I've ordered a shaft for each router model I've mentioned and as soon as I've fitted and tested them, I'll report back.

HTH

Ray

Originally Posted by T.C

Hi all, just a couple questions about router tables, that I haven't quite found the answers for after a lot of reading here:

1) Does anyone now where else to buy combo mitre and T track, like this
Kreg® Combo-Trak : CARBA-TEC besides Carbatec in Aus?
I was thinking of using this for the mitre channel and the T track side for feather boards. But if there isn't anywhere else, I guess standard mitre channel with some adapters will do.

2) How accurate and robust is the height winder on the Triton TRA001b combined with a woodpecker phenolic plate?
I've been tossing up between the big Triton and the variable speed Makita and Hitachi's with a car jack type lift.

I've got the table top 900x450x~32mm laminated bench off cut, got plenty of t track for the top and fence, I've got ideas for the cabinet, I'm going to get an Incra v120 mitre gauge. So it's just the mitre channel, router and plate to decide on.

Any ideas and opinions much welcome, and thanks in advance

Hi TC

The benefit of a combo track on a Router Table is limited, a simple mitre channel is all you need for both a mitre gauge and featherboards. The Woodpeckers Phenolic Plate is pre-drilled for the Triton and accepts the Router Raizer, a better solution (IMHO) as it almost completely bypasses the Triton plastic bits. The carjack option worries me as it puts pressure on parts of the router that weren't meant to be stressed.

We have a set of plans (actually a redraw of one of my early router tables) available HERE

I hope that this helps.

Regards

Grahame

Originally Posted by Gwhat

The Woodpeckers Phenolic Plate is pre-drilled for the Triton and accepts the Router Raizer, a better solution (IMHO) as it almost completely bypasses the Triton plastic bits. The carjack option worries me as it puts pressure on parts of the router that weren't meant to be stressed.

Doesn't the Router Raizer prevent plunging totally when used for hand-held operation?

The replacement alloy worm shafts I mentioned in my first reply still allow full function, inverted and hand-held and can be fitted without any drilling of the fittings or body required.

I agree about the car jack "method" - keep away from that totally!

Ray

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

Doesn't the Router Raizer prevent plunging totally when used for hand-held operation?

The replacement alloy worm shafts I mentioned in my first reply still allow full function, inverted and hand-held and can be fitted without any drilling of the fittings or body required.

I agree about the car jack "method" - keep away from that totally!

Ray

Ray

The functionality isn't affected, 'though why you'd be putting such a big beast in and out of a table escapes me.

Regargs

Grahame

Originally Posted by Gwhat

The functionality isn't affected, 'though why you'd be putting such a big beast in and out of a table escapes me.

For those with only one router, there's no other choice. Whilst there are many with more than one machine, it's not a universal condition!

Ray

Thanks for the input Ray and Grahame.

The Triton would be for table use only so no worries with needing to put the spring back or loss of plunge depth hand held.

The only reason for the car jack lift idea would be for a cheapish stop gap measure until or if ever those fixed based routers find there way to Aus (which I don't think will be any time soon). Anyway I was definitely leaning more towards the Triton, but was keeping my options open.

Actually, see how you go without the mitre track. In my experience it isn't essential.

Originally Posted by T.C

Thanks for the input Ray and Grahame.

Anyway I was definitely leaning more towards the Triton, but was keeping my options open.

If you're not yet wedded to the Triton, look around at the Makita RP2301FC or the new Hitachi offering M12VE (H1) both are tradesman duty routers with good back up and support. The Hitachi is only about $25.00 more than the Triton.

My thoughts for what they're worth....

Regards

Grahame

I did spot the new Hitachi online but it doesn't appear to come with a 1/4" reducer/collet or any form of dust collection. The big Mak is out of my budget. So at this stage the Triton looks the goods and will probably get one later this week while they're on sale. It will also save me the trouble of building a lift.

Just for added info, I've now installed the alloy replacement worm gear shafts (post #2 above) on both routers - no problems at all, very nicely-made parts indeed.

Ray

Ray, how do you remove the springs in the Triton router, please?

Also, is it easy to replace the plastic gear with an alloy one?

There's one plunge spring in each router model, in the right-hand leg. Make sure that the router is stood on its base and is at the top of its plunge (at its tallest). Loosen the black cross-head screw behind the black spring cap on the front right-hand shoulder, just enough so that the rim of the cap will pass under it when turned.

To remove the bayonet-fitting cap, push down VERY firmly and twist to the left about 6mm - 8mm, when you'll feel the bayonet lugs disengage. Now, VERY SLOWLY and VERY CAREFULLY release pressure on the spring cap, allowing the spring to relax and then remove it.

Reassembly is a reversal of the above, when you'll see that the cap has an internal tubular extension to prevent the last 50mm - 75mm of spring buckling when your pressing it home. Push firmly and twist until the bayonet lugs engage, then tighten the cross-head screw to lock the spring cap into place. Here's a picture to confirm. You can see how much the cross-head screw is undone and the extrusion on the inside of the spring cap:



When using inverted, leave the spring cap off, allowing any dust and debris to fall through rather than build up in the cap, as it does if replaced.

Replacing the plastic worm gears with alloy versions differs between models, as the gears are fitted slightly differently. Look at my Maintenance and Dismantling pages for the individual models, here for the larger TRA/B001 model and here for the smaller MOF001.

Follow the instructions down to and including "now for a good clean," but go no further as the remaining parts of the articles were written following a request from another member.

I hope some of that helps?

Ray

Excellent information!! Many thanks for doing this, Ray

Hi Folks, Have just rec'd New Worm Gear drive for my MOF001 Can someone tell me where the metal washer goes, that came with it. Have downloade the Maintenance and Dismantling pages ans used them to replace the drive, but unable to locate anything about the supplied washer!
Thaks