Thread: Router Table Rebuild

You will most likely find that moisture from the air has gotten into the edges of your MDF and swolen the edges. I have an adjustable aluminium plate for my router insert and adjust the plate level with the edges. As the plate is the working surface and the table is just support you can see how this is effective.

You might be able to cut one yourself, but you would be limiting yourself to one size opening, and a narrow range of bits. I don't have an affordable solution for you, I'm afraid.

On laminates: After two years my laminex covered router/outfeed table is scored and ugly, but still functional. A bit of paste wax* helps here.

Whatever router insert you make/buy can be improved by the addition of a dozen or so holes around the perimeter, drilled and tapped for small set screws. These are used to fine-tune the level in the table. Alternatively, a bit of trial and error with some shim stock does the same thing.

*the usual warnings about wax and unfinished timber apply.

Originally Posted by Coldamus

......

Where can I buy an aluminium router plate at a reasonable price?? Timbecon have one 9mm thick for $149. Ouch! I could cut one myself but it is a lot of work with a hacksaw, drill and files.

regards
Coldamus

Check out your local aluminium fabrication shops - we have a couple here who work on the Qrail projects etc - they have lots of plate in all different sizes and thicknesses - also check out as to offcuts - often too small for them but perfect for us.
Plate aluminium shouldn't be a problem - they should also be able [at small cost drill the holes where you need them [ if you are happy with your nylon plate they should be able to use it as a template]
Bob

No reason why you couldn't mill your own. Get an offcut approximating the dimensions you want (you can cut it down on a tablesaw with a TCT blade that you don't like), then attach an MDF template to it, and use your table-mounted router with a TCT bearing straight bit (again, one that you don't plan to use on wood).

Aluminium is softer than some woods, nevertheless, I take it slowly with little depth of cut (ie multiple passes with the router), and have not had any problem.

Hi Gregory..

I'm just new to shiny cast-iron tables having recently purchased a table saw and a jointer...
Info seems to say wash off the machine oil from the surfaces with metho and then apply wax paste / beeswax / what have you...
Notice here that you "warn" of paste on tables...
[quote] *the usual warnings about wax and unfinished timber apply*

So what warnings/advice apply?
What to polish / rust-protect / moisture-protect cast iron tables with?
Thanks for your info
Cheers
Jedo

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I think termite may be on the right track about the reason for the bow in the table. I framed the melamine/MDF sheet with oak strips but the edges of the sheet may have swelled from the adhesive (aquadhere). Anyway I won't make the same mistake twice. I have also had some radical thoughts about re-designing the fence and will report back with photos in a few weeks after I have done the rebuild.

regards
Coldamus

Originally Posted by Jedo_03

Hi Gregory..
*the usual warnings about wax and unfinished timber apply*

So what warnings/advice apply?
What to polish / rust-protect / moisture-protect cast iron tables with?
Thanks for your info
Cheers
Jedo

Hi Jedo...

The warning was about the wax rubbing off on the timber and interfering with glue adhesion or finish penetration. Silicone wax, or silicone containing products in general are meant to be particularly vexing in this regard.

On my cast tables I am currently using a high grade auto wax said to be silicone free. So far so good, and I've been using it for about two years. Others use a product called "Silver glide", ( or "Silber Gleit" if you get the German labelled stuff). Felder and others stock it.

Another product that people like is Boeshield T-9, an anti-corrosion coating made for Boeing. I haven't looked for it, but I understand that a chandler or yacht supply dealer may stock it. Or Boeing A mate uses it with good results.

Watch for perspiration drips on your tables and clean them off immediately, as those drips can be more corrosive than plain water.

Cheers

Greg

Coldamus,

Have you considered that the timber you were moulding might not be perfectly true? ( or deformed since because of timber tension etc.)

That would also produce a bad moulding, or even the bit riding up out of the collet slightly.

Originally Posted by Coldamus

So, how do I fix it?? First thought was to add a laminex-surfaced mdf sheet over the whole thing with a hole in the centre for the router shaft to protrude. However that would lose too much adjustment depth and the sheet would probably follow the existing bow in the table.

Coldamus

G'day There,

I recently had exactly the same problem with my first router table (just finished). Moisture in the air is likely screwing with your unsealed MDF - first up wait for a dry day and then seal it with something (paint - anything). Then you could either use same dead straight heavy (17mm or greater) ply strips (say 100mm wide) or some RHS steel/heavy aluminium and coach screws to pull it flat. My router table has a dodgy steel frame and an old sink cut out (37mm kitchen counter particle board) for a table. Bloody thunderstorm humidity bowed the chipboard while I was deciding how to make the table. Everything for my table had to be cheap as possible so I just straightened it using 3/8 coach screws through the RHS frame and plastic wedges. Put a wedge under the low spots, tighten up the coach screws constantly checking for flat every which way with a straight edge. Its time consuming but it works. Got it down to 1/10th of a mm (with feeler gauges) before I gave up - I doubt anything i make will be better than that!Oh yeah then I edged the particle board with hardwood and sealed that so it doesn't happen again.

Good luck

Cheers

Originally Posted by Coldamus

I framed the melamine/MDF sheet with oak strips but the edges of the sheet may have swelled from the adhesive (aquadhere).

When you put the oak strips on, did you also screw them? The screws can cause the mdf to blow outwards, causing it to cup. (DAMHIKT)

Hi Greg
Thanks for the info
Metho and rag morning for me
cheers
Jedo

I had another play with the router table this morning and am back to my original conclusion that the melamine surfaced MDF was bowed to start with.

To answer Groggy's question, Yes I did screw the oak strips on as well as glueing them. However that didn't seem to affect it, probably because I pre-drilled the screw holes. There may be slight thickening of the edges due to swelling but if so it is only a small part of the overall problem.

Jow, the timber I was routing was quite straight. Perhaps I was pushing it down too hard and inconsistently over its length. Although it was 19mm thick, I might have flexed it and contributed to the poor result.

I also noticed this morning that there is some flex in my nylon router mounting plate if I push it up from below, though very little if the pressure is from above. I don't think that is a factor but I don't like it. I think I'll shell out for the Timbecon aluminium plate. It only hurts once! Then I'll make a new top or a complete new table.

regards
Coldamus

Originally Posted by gregoryq

Hi Jedo...


Others use a product called "Silver glide", ( or "Silber Gleit" if you get the German labelled stuff). Felder and others stock it.


Greg

I was lucky enough to be given a tin of Silber Gleit. Absolutely superb on steel sufaces as long as they are not painted. I can't recommend it highly enough,but be wary on other than bare steel. It reacts adversely. I believe the product is pricey.

Regards
Paul

Ok - my two bob: Flip your table over - is it convex or concave. If your top is convex and your bottome concave like this (( then it's a bow in the wood and you can flatten it by bracing it underneath. If both the top and the bottom are convex like this )( then it's some sort of swelling around the edges of the MDF - glue (aquahere is made to expand wood), moisture or whatever. And if it's like this () I have no @#$%n idea.