Thread: Router Table Split Fence????????

Hi Beaver, Yes the fence should mave to accomodate the cutter size you are using. The more support you can give the wood passing the cutter the better the cut. For example on thin wood if it is not supported well it may chatter causing a serrated edge to the cut. there may be some experts on here who can give a better explanation but I hope this helps.

The tighter the gap around the cutter, the better. Often a zero clearance fence is optimum, so the fence is faced with mdf scraps and advanced into the spinning cutter to create it.

My fence is adjustable on both sides, and had t-tracks to slide the mdf sub-fences left and right relative to the bit.

The closer you are to dedicated commercial router table fence the more flexibility you will have.

1. Adjustable Fence. Good for closing up the gap surrounding the bit, to the point of a zero clearance. ie. a fence cut to the shape of the bit so that it can be moved to within 1mm of the cutter to reduce tearout.

2. Adjustable Offset Fence. Used in conjunction with the above for when the cutter in use removes the complete face of the timber. The offset supports the finished face on the outfeed side to maintain the correct cut.

Originally Posted by gregoryq

The tighter the gap around the cutter, the better. Often a zero clearance fence is optimum, so the fence is faced with mdf scraps and advanced into the spinning cutter to create it.
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That's what i use. Scrap mdf for each cutter. particularly for small fine work like on a jewellery box. That way you have support on each side of the cutter AND over the top.

Originally Posted by Termite

1. Adjustable Fence. Good for closing up the gap surrounding the bit, to the point of a zero clearance. ie. a fence cut to the shape of the bit so that it can be moved to within 1mm of the cutter to reduce tearout.

2. Adjustable Offset Fence. Used in conjunction with the above for when the cutter in use removes the complete face of the timber. The offset supports the finished face on the outfeed side to maintain the correct cut.

Dont forget that good quality double sided tape Termie


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Originally Posted by redwood

Dont forget that good quality double sided tape Termie


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It's the old story......Don't knock it if you haven't tried it.

Originally Posted by Termite

It's the old story......Don't knock it if you haven't tried it.

im comfy with it if the tape is of high quality . to many people buy their tape from cheap places and its crap and dont dust and clean the surfaces bla blah. id hate to see a beginer come unstuck thats all

Originally Posted by Termite

1. Adjustable Fence. Good for closing up the gap surrounding the bit, to the point of a zero clearance. ie. a fence cut to the shape of the bit so that it can be moved to within 1mm of the cutter to reduce tearout.

2. Adjustable Offset Fence. Used in conjunction with the above for when the cutter in use removes the complete face of the timber. The offset supports the finished face on the outfeed side to maintain the correct cut.

Hi Termite

Enjoy your posts and would appreciate more info to help me make a new one piece fence for jewellery box work

Am I correct in understanding from this thread that the "Adjustable fence" has a recess for blank mdf zero clearance inserts to be held in by doublesided tape? Would it be safer to hold in by screws?

I'm also aiming to replace the too flexible Triton Adjustable Offset fence and was thinking about making a much simpler split fence version of the Pat Warner fence

http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html
Any pics would be appreciated

Best regards

Barry

Barry, the double sided tape refers to on old discussion I had with Redwood, please disregard.

I made my own version to the Pat Warner Fence and used it happily for about 18 months, it is still doing fine work with one of my nephews.
I have since gone the Incra route, which can be a bit expensive unless you are really going to give it a good workout.
I can recommed a well made version of the Warner fence for general use.

below is my current setup.

Thanks everyone for your replies. Thats cleared up one question. Ihave more questions, but I guess thats a new thread.......

Beaver

Originally Posted by Barry F

Hi Termite

Enjoy your posts and would appreciate more info to help me make a new one piece fence for jewellery box work
Barry

Barry, just clamp a bit of mdf to the original fence. I prefer that to d/sided tape. It doesn't need to be thick mdf either, it's alrerady supported by the original fence.

Thanks Termite & Gumby

All the Best
Barry